What should be the cross-section of wires in apartment wiring?

Recently, visitors to our site contacted us with a request to dwell in more detail on such an issue as the cross-section of wires in a city apartment. This is the reason for the appearance of this article, which, I hope, will be useful for those who are planning to make repairs or are simply concerned about the state of the electrical wiring in their home.

Even an uninitiated person understands that the size of the cross-section is determined by the total power of the devices connected to the intra-apartment electrical network. Its different sections are subject to different loads, according to which the thickness of the cable should be selected, which can be:

1. Introductory.
2. Powering an electric stove or hob.
3. Serving socket groups.
4. Powering lighting fixtures.

It is from the above division that I will proceed when talking about what cross-section a cable laid in a certain part of the apartment wiring should have.

If you are planning to install electrical wiring in your apartment with your own hands, be sure to read this article! It will help you avoid a large number of possible mistakes.

Section diameter is an indicator of cable power

Physical laws say that the maximum amount of current that this conductor can conduct through itself without heating depends on the cross-sectional diameter of the conductor. If you try to conduct a current more than the limit figure, this will lead to heating of the conductor, and the greater the current and the duration of the “session”, the higher the temperature.

For a residential subscriber, the above is interpreted as follows.

The diameter of the cable cross-section means the maximum permissible number of kilowatts (kW) that can be consumed in the apartment. That is, which and how many electrical appliances can operate simultaneously. The larger the diameter, the more devices can be used simultaneously without any fear for life and health. Theoretically, it is possible to “hang” more power on the cable than its diameter allows. But in this case, heating of the current-carrying conductor, damage to the insulation, followed by the effects of burnout, combustion... ignition, is inevitable.

Therefore, the choice of the cross-section of the input cable must be approached with all seriousness: after all, both the safety and ease of use of household electrical appliances depend on it.

Which cable is NOT RECOMMENDED to be used?

In addition to cables intended for installation of electrical wiring, there are cable products not intended for these purposes. Despite this, unscrupulous electricians use these types of cable products for installation of electrical wiring due to their low price and ease of use.

PVS wire

According to the manufacturers, this wire is intended for connecting mobile electrical appliances, making carriers and for other similar purposes.

This type of cable product does not have a certificate for the distribution of electricity and use as a cable for hidden electrical wiring. The service life of this product is only 10 years. This is quite enough for carrying or connecting a moving mechanism, but very little for electrical wiring hidden in a layer of plaster.

This is due to the properties of the insulation - it is designed for constant bending, therefore it is softer and less durable than that of VVG and NYM cables. Naturally, a plastered cable left undisturbed will last longer than 10 years, but no one can say how long.

However, this cable is widely used for laying electrical wiring by non-professionals, as well as hacks and factory electricians who have a vague understanding of GOST standards and certificates. This is due to its flexibility, ease of use and low price.

Important! This wire cannot be connected to modern sockets and switches without using NShVI lugs. In these devices, the wire is pressed with a bolt, which “flattens” the wire and breaks the wires, so the use of lugs is mandatory.

ShVVP wire

The SHVVP wire (more precisely, not a wire, but a cord) is even less suitable for electrical wiring than PVS. With similar insulation of current-carrying conductors, the overall shell is much thinner. This cable is designed for connecting lamps and is made of very low quality by almost all manufacturers. Very often this wire is incorrectly marked, exaggerating the actual cross-section - 2.5mm² instead of 1.5mm² or 1.5mm² instead of 0.75mm². Using such a wire may result in overheating, short circuit and even fire.

The declared service life is similar to PVA wire, but thinner insulation reduces the actual service life.

Wire PUNP

The use of this wire is strictly prohibited. Due to its poor quality, there have been many cases of electrical wiring and fires in Russia. Currently, technical specifications TU 16.K13-020-93 have been canceled and the production of this wire has been discontinued.

Unlike GOST 22483-77, the technical conditions according to which the wire was produced made it possible to underestimate the cross-section of the current-carrying core by 30%. This means that when purchasing a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm², its actual cross-section may turn out to be 1.75 mm². Naturally, such a conductor will overheat during operation.

In addition, according to TU 16.K13-020-93, the product was produced with insulation of only 0.3 mm, in contrast to GOST 23286-78, which provides for this parameter to be at least 0.4-0-5 mm.

These factors make it dangerous to use PUNP for electrical wiring. The only safe use of this wire is connecting sockets in chandeliers, sconces and other indoor lamps.

Information! In connection with the ban on the production of PUNP cable, some manufacturers began producing it under new names - PUNPbm, PUGNP, PBPP and others, which does not make its use safer.

Conclusion

And yet, what cable should I use for wiring in the apartment? To summarize the article, we can say that the best choice for a single-core cable is VVGng-ls or NYMng-ls from the original manufacturer, and for a multi-core cable - KGVVng-ls.

If these types of cable products are not commercially available or their installation is impossible for financial reasons, then it is allowed to use VVGng and NYM from a domestic manufacturer, but the ends of the latter should be sealed with heat-shrinkable tubing.

Similar materials on the site:

• Description and characteristics of NYM cable
• Which cable is better VVGng or NYM
• 5 ways to secure a cable to the wall

Section calculation algorithm

There is a proven diagram for calculating the cross-section of the input cable, which is used in design. It is based on the postulate that the cross-sectional diameter of the input cable is selected depending on the expected power of all devices operating in the apartment.

Stage 1: Inventory

At the first stage, a list of electrical appliances that are present in the apartment is compiled. It is assumed what equipment will be purchased in the future and the list is expanded. Assumptions, of course, are best made with a reasonable margin for the long-term future. Each device is assigned an approximate power consumption.

You can use a table that roughly shows a list of typical household electrical appliances and their approximate power consumption.

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• Wiring in the apartment
• How to install new electrical wiring in an apartment?

Stage 2: Simple Arithmetic

Next, the total cardinality of our list is calculated. The approximate power required for lighting is added, depending on the size of the apartment, the expected lighting intensity, and the expected type of lighting fixtures.

The resulting figure is an estimate of the power consumption in the apartment for the case if all devices are turned on at the same time. However, such a situation is very unlikely, and therefore in electrical engineering it is generally accepted that a maximum of 75% of the available equipment is turned on at the same time. And the resulting total power is multiplied by a factor of 0.75, and the resulting figure is taken as the basis for calculating the cross-section of the input cable.

Stage 3: Logic and Physics

Currently, electrical cable cores are made of copper and aluminum. There are formula relations that connect the maximum permissible current (and, accordingly, power) for a copper cable with the diameter of its cross-section. For standard copper cable sizes, there are calculated current and maximum power ratings for 220V and 380V AC. The following table provides these figures in a "usable" form.

Let us assume that the calculated power of all devices is 12 kW, and with a coefficient of 0.75 - 9 kW. It turns out that you need to choose a cable for which the maximum permissible power will be at least 9 kW. For a voltage of 220 V, a cross-section with a diameter of 6 mm is required - it is capable of passing a current of 46 A and a power of 10.1 kW. For the smaller cross-section from the table - 4 mm - the maximum permissible current is 38 A, and the power is 8.3 kW. This is less than necessary, so a cable of this cross-section will not work and you should stop at a 6-mm cross-section.

If you choose a cable with a larger cross-section than necessary, this will provide a good reserve for the future (for example, the emergence of new powerful household appliances) and a reserve for wear. However, you should also not exceed the rated power too much: this will affect the cost of the input cable, and the input cable may turn out to be more powerful than the internal electrical wiring, which is not reasonable and safe.

What else is needed

A machine must be installed on the input cable, which will be tasked with turning off the power supply if the current approaches the maximum permissible level. The rating of the machine is selected slightly less than the maximum permissible current through the input cable: in this way an additional degree of protection is provided. In this example, you should install a 40 A machine.

So, the parameters of the input cable require careful selection. Errors threaten, for example, a “bottleneck” situation - when all the home electrical wiring is powerful enough, but the input cable is not able to provide the required power. The cross-sectional diameter of the input cable is selected taking into account the total power of electrical appliances that will be used in the room. In order for all the nuances to be taken into account and the input cable to serve for many years without any emergencies, it is better to entrust the reconstruction of the electrical wiring to professional electricians.

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Planning your home electrical system

Regardless of the reasons for the decision to change the electrical network, the first step of this process will always be the same - drawing up a diagram. This is easy to do yourself, the main thing is to follow the steps described here:

1. Prepare an apartment plan. Here you can make a copy of the technical passport, but in general it is usually not so difficult to sketch an approximate layout of the rooms. True, it is best, of course, to maintain the scale, and not to apply it by eye. By the way, the drawing can also be made on a computer using special engineering programs (for example, CAD). It is also worth noting that it is better not just to draw a diagram, but also to enter the exact dimensions of the walls - this will make it easier to calculate the amount of cable.
2. After the wiring diagram has been drawn up - it’s better to make several copies at once, because it won’t be possible to do everything at once as a “finish copy” - we move on to the furniture. You need to take into account what is already worth and what you plan to buy. The same applies to electronics. It’s also worth considering what might appear in the near future. For example, growing children will need computers, consoles, a dishwasher or more household appliances may appear in the kitchen, etc.

   *(This is only a small part of the electronics that everyone needs today)

3. Once you have made a list of items that will require sockets, you will need to place those items in the appropriate locations. Of course, not every thing needs its own outlet, but in the kitchen, for example, it’s worth providing more of them - in case of a large dinner or cooking with 4 hands, for example. So items that need to be constantly connected and those that will be installed as needed should be separated. And don't rely on extension cords. It’s better to add another outlet to survive without such devices for as long as possible.
4. After the primary circuit is assembled, sockets are drawn. Here it is necessary to take into account that they should not hide behind large furniture and it is advisable to be located where they will never be crowded with anything. The sockets do not have to be placed separately from each other; you can make points with several sockets and switches, if this is convenient.
5. Transfer the sockets to a clean circuit and check if everything is ok.
6. In order for an electrician to understand the circuit, it is advisable to use a table of special symbols and immediately note where, for example, there will be switches with one or two keys, open and closed sockets, blocks with sockets and switches, etc. But this is not necessary, since Usually an electrical specialist himself can distribute everything and clarify the details. If the wiring is done by the owners of the apartment, any designations for the types of sockets can be used.

   *(This diagram shows well how to draw a floor plan of an apartment in order to then draw a wiring diagram)

7. Now the lighting. Here you can give free rein to your imagination and make the scheme the way you always wanted - with a single source in the center of the room, zoning using several light sources, or simply placing everything randomly.
8. When the light sources are placed, the switches are adjusted to them. It is necessary to provide for both the placement location (for left-handed or right-handed people), the quantity, as well as the height. Typically, switches are placed inside rooms, but this is not necessary - in bathtubs and toilets, for example, there are no switches and sockets due to humidity.

Now you have a clean diagram with all the sockets, light sources and switches for them, which means you can move on to planning the laying of the wire route. This is discussed in more detail in the next section.

What should be the cross-section of wires in apartment wiring?

Recently, visitors to our site contacted us with a request to dwell in more detail on such an issue as the cross-section of wires in a city apartment. This is the reason for the appearance of this article, which, I hope, will be useful for those who are planning to make repairs or are simply concerned about the state of the electrical wiring in their home.

Even an uninitiated person understands that the size of the cross-section is determined by the total power of the devices connected to the intra-apartment electrical network. Its different sections are subject to different loads, according to which the thickness of the cable should be selected, which can be:

1. Introductory.
2. Powering an electric stove or hob.
3. Serving socket groups.
4. Powering lighting fixtures.

It is from the above division that I will proceed when talking about what cross-section a cable laid in a certain part of the apartment wiring should have.

If you are planning to install electrical wiring in your apartment with your own hands, be sure to read this article! It will help you avoid a large number of possible mistakes.

Plan

Before you do the wiring in the apartment with your own hands from the panel, you need to create a plan for it. And this moment must be approached very seriously, because the safety of all residents of the apartment will depend on the correctness of planning, and subsequently implementation in kind. If there is at least a minimal understanding of what electric current is, then there will be no problems. You need to calculate the load and make a drawing on paper. To correctly identify all electrical points in the apartment (sockets, switches, wires, inputs and outputs), it is necessary to adhere to the standardized markings on the plan. This diagram will help to correctly lay cables that will withstand a particular load. On the same plan, it is important to take into account the location of household appliances: for example, an electric kettle and a boiler require wires with a large cross-section, but a light bulb and a TV do not need them.

An example of an electrical diagram for an apartment

The wiring points must be indicated on the diagram. There are three types of wiring - parallel, serial and mixed. It is the last option that is most rational to use - it is cheaper than all others in terms of material costs, and it is also the most effective. To make it easier, here is a rough plan for the breakdown of connection points:

• Light in the kitchen, hallway, living rooms.
• Light in the toilet and bathroom.
• Power supply for outlets in living rooms and hallways.
• Power supply outlets in the kitchen.
• Power supply for sockets for the electric stove, if there is one. Also, if there is a boiler, it is also better to allocate it to be connected via a separate wire directly to the panel.

Distribution of machines by functional groups of electrical appliances

The above plan is just an example, there can be a lot of options, the main thing is to calculate the loads and correctly group the connection points.

Calculation of loads on electrical wiring

The preparatory work does not end with the creation of a plan: it must be approved by the relevant regulatory authorities, and only after that begin work on installation and cabling.

Residential input cable cross-section

The power per input cable and, accordingly, the strength of the current carried by it is limited by the amount of allocated power, determined by Energosbyt and controlled by the input machine. Its response threshold is usually 25A. Most often, in apartment buildings, incoming automatic machines are installed in electrical panels outside apartments. The cable laid from the machine inside the living quarters is precisely the introductory one, which I will now talk about.

In apartments, the cross-section of the input cable can be:

• in single-phase networks - copper cable 3 × 10 mm 2 (three-core - phase, ground and neutral; 10 mm 2 for each core) paired with a 50 A circuit breaker;
• in three-phase networks - copper cable 5 × 4 mm 2 (five-core - three phases, ground and zero; 2.5 mm 2 for each core) paired with a 25 A circuit breaker.

The power supplied may vary depending on the age of the building and whether it has gas or electric stoves. Indirect evidence of the real value of this parameter can be the nominal value of the machine at the entrance to the apartment. In any case, you will never regret if the wires indicated just above are used as the input cable.

A simple way to select a section

Replacing electrical wiring in an apartment or private house with your own hands begins with determining the parameters of the wire that will be used. Typically, the wiring diagram in a house consists of a lighting circuit, a circuit of sockets and an underwater (input) cable. What should be the cross-section of all these wires and the input cable? If your apartment or house contains the most common standard household appliances, then a simplified method for selecting the wire cross-section for the home electrical network offers the following solution:

• the cross-section of the lighting circuit wire must be at least 1.5 mm²;
• the wire cross-section of the socket circuit must be at least 2.5 mm²;
• The cross-section of the underwater (input) cable must be at least 4-6 mm².

When carrying out repairs yourself, you should take into account the fact that electrical appliances with high current consumption, such as electric stoves, water heaters, dishwashers and washing machines, require separate wiring made with a three-core cable (including ground) of sufficient cross-section. If one powerful electrical appliance is connected to this circuit, then it will be sufficient to choose a cross-section of 2.5 mm². If you plan to simultaneously turn on two or more nearby powerful electrical household appliances (dishwasher, washing machine, boiler, etc.), then there is no point in running its own line for each appliance. It is easier to take a three-core wire with a cross-section of at least 4 mm², and for an underwater (input) cable use a cross-section of 6 mm² or more.

If the house has a workshop in which powerful power tools are installed (electric welding, electric sharpener, lathe, drill, circular saw and others), then a cross-section of the underwater (input) cable of 4-6 mm² may not be enough. In this case, when laying electrical wiring yourself, you should use a supply cable with a larger cross-section.

The above considerations concerned wires with a copper core. Such wires have replaced aluminum ones, which have worse characteristics, in particular, lower electrical conductivity. Therefore, if, for reasons of economy when making repairs with your own hands, you decide to choose aluminum wires rather than copper, you should change the numbers of the given cross-sections upward. For example, lay a circuit of sockets with a cable with a cross-section of 4 mm², and not 2.5 mm². This simplified method of selecting the required cross-section provides a certain margin, allowing you not to worry about overheating of the loaded wiring and short circuit.

Cable for apartment sockets

The optimal cross-section of wires serving apartment socket groups is 2.5 mm 2. This allows them to withstand currents of up to 27 A, which corresponds to a total power of approximately 6 kW. The use of conductors with a larger cross-section, for example, 4 mm 2, is impractical because:

1. Such cables simply cannot fit into the terminals of socket mechanisms.
2. Laying such cables is significantly more expensive and is not economically feasible.

And there is no practical need for thicker cables, because... It is rare to find household electrical appliances plugged into an outlet whose power exceeds 3.5 kW. Thus, by placing cables with a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2 in the wiring of the socket groups, you can sleep peacefully: they are able to withstand any electrical appliances, even if they operate for a long time.

What is the cross-section of the electrical wire

Electrical wire is the basis of the electrical network. Therefore, it is necessary to know its characteristics not only for professional electricians, but also for people who decide to independently replace or restore wiring.

To see the cross-section, cut the electrical wire across and look at the cut from the end. The area of ​​the cut part is called the section. The value is directly proportional to the current that the wire can carry. The diameter is selected to withstand the load. A thin wire will burn out, and a spare wire will not be used one hundred percent and means extra costs.

Electrical reference books give values ​​related to area. To do this, it is necessary to recalculate using the formula: S=(3.14*d*d)/4. S – area in sq. mm, d – diameter in mm.

The diameter directly depends on the total power consumption of the devices.

Expert opinion

Viktor Pavlovich Strebizh, lighting and electrical expert

Any questions ask me, I will help!

If the thickness reaches 15 mm and above, then the cross-section of the aluminum and steel-aluminum cable remains unchanged, and the copper conductor must be increased to 25 mm. If there is something you don’t understand, write to me!

Lighting system wire cross-section

Surely, you yourself understand that lighting fixtures place the least amount of stress on apartment electrical wiring. Therefore, a wire cross-section of 1.5 mm 2 is quite sufficient for a standard apartment in an apartment building. However, when laying the wiring, you should be absolutely sure that the total load of each lighting group does not exceed 3.5 kW. Due to the traditionally low load, all apartment lighting, as a rule, is reduced to one group, served by a 1.5 mm 2 cable.

A wire cross-section of 1.5 mm2 is quite sufficient for wiring that supplies power to lighting fixtures

So, to summarize, I’ll just remind you of the bare numbers. Most often, the cross-section of wires in a city apartment is:

• input cable – 3×10 mm 2 (single-phase network), 5×2.5 mm 2 (three-phase network);
• electric stove (hob) – 3×6 mm 2 (single-phase network), 5×2.5 mm 2 (three-phase network);
• rosette groups – 3×2.5 mm 2;
• lighting devices – 3×1.5 mm 2.

However, I must emphasize the phrase “most often” that I used. If you initially plan to install very powerful devices in your apartment, then before laying the electrical wiring you should make the necessary calculations so as not to make a mistake in choosing cables of the required cross-section. The best option is to contact a professional electrician.

Copper or aluminum

During the Soviet era, aluminum was used for residential wiring, which was due to:

• reduced price when compared with copper wires for electrical wiring;
• lightweight design.

At the same time, aluminum wires have more negative qualities than positive ones:

• reduced electrical conductivity;
• oxidation upon contact with air, which increases resistance and reduces the useful cross-section;
• service life does not exceed 20-25 years;
• increased fragility;
• complexity of wiring installation.

Advantages of copper used in electrical wiring:

• good conductivity even after the formation of a film on the surface;
• service life - up to half a century;
• increased mechanical strength;
• installation is easy.

The only disadvantage of such wiring is its high cost. The type of cable needed for wiring is determined by building regulations, according to which wiring in various buildings is made of copper cables and wires. Here are links to the PUE.

Wire cross-section for entry into the apartment

Hello, I would like to rehang the panel in an apartment (new building, complete renovation) and accordingly I need to lengthen the input a little. I'm thinking of replacing it completely. Thinking about the section. The input is limited by a circuit breaker in the floor switchboard at 63A. On the Internet, or rather on Mastercity, there are two links to PUE tables » > » > According to the first, I need a section of 16 squares, and according to the second, 10 is enough. The question arose, how much is needed?

Nowadays it is almost impossible to find a cable with a non-undersized cross-section, so it is advisable to choose 16 mm2, because according to table 19 GOST R 53769-2010 back-to-back 10 mm2 is 63 A

At the same time, formally 10 mm2 is just 63 A, so it is an acceptable option, however, keep in mind that the machine can pass 1.45 nominal for up to 1 hour, and for a cable over several minutes this is no longer a short-term excess of current and Overheating may occur and damage the insulation.

In short, 16 mm2 is better, but 10 mm2 is also acceptable.

Quite right - 16 squares.

Alexiy wrote: At the same time, formally 10 mm2 is just 63 A, so it is an acceptable option, however, keep in mind that the machine can pass 1.45 nominal values ​​​​up to 1 hour, and for a cable over several minutes - this is no longer short-term excess current and possible overheating, which will damage the insulation.

as an option, use a -FRLS cable; it has a permissible core temperature of 90C for several hours instead of 70 and allows emergency overloads. but at the price of 16mm2 it might be cheaper.

So as not to think about it in the future. AB 40A - 6mm2 AB 50A - 10mm2 AB 63A - 16mm2 AB 80A - 16mm2

correct me if I'm wrong av 10a - 1.5 mm2 av 16a - 2.5 mm2 av 25a - 4.0 mm2 av 32a - 6.0 mm2 av 40a - 6.0 mm2 (I doubt it) av 50a - 10.0 mm2 av 63a - 10.0 mm2 av 80a - 16.0 mm2

Ok, thanks everyone. In general, if the wire is from the market, then it’s definitely 16 squares.

And a related question, so as not to clutter up with topics, is it necessary to use corrugation when laying wires in a screed? After all, the medium is fireproof, cooling is better and the diameter is smaller. VVG cable, house - monolith.

StarWind wrote: Ok, thanks everyone. In general, if the wire is from the market, then it’s definitely 16 squares.

And a related question, so as not to clutter up with topics, is it necessary to use corrugation when laying wires in a screed? After all, the medium is fireproof, cooling is better and the diameter is smaller. VVG cable, house - monolith.

The corrugation will save you in case of emergency. if a crack forms in the screed, which will easily rupture the outer sheath of the cable.

user0552 wrote: correct me if I'm wrong av 10a - 1.5 mm2 av 16a - 2.5 mm2 av 25a - 4.0 mm2 av 32a - 6.0 mm2 av 40a - 6.0 mm2 (I doubt it) av 50a - 10.0 mm2 av 63a - 10.0 mm2 av 80a - 16.0 mm2

63 A - 16 mm kV 80 A - 25 mm kV Ampere must be capitalized - this is the person’s last name.

Alexiy wrote: Nowadays it is almost impossible to find a cable with a non-undersized cross-section

Well, why: when I bought a cable for myself - and this is about 100 m, I did not hesitate to take a caliper with me and before buying I measured the diameter of the cores

Alexiy wrote: Nowadays it is almost impossible to find a cable with a non-undersized cross-section.

If you need 4mm, take the one that says “6 mm”, if you need 1.5 mm, buy it, which is passed off as “2.5 mm”, and so on. But it's better to do this:

Magirus wrote: without hesitation, he took a caliper with him and measured the diameter of the cores before purchasing

Magirus wrote: I took a caliper with me and measured the diameter of the cores before purchasing

there is an error of 0.05, and this. 1.79mm is 2.5mm2, and 1.74 is 2.35mm2 (narrower), but in real life you can easily make a mistake by a factor of ten with such a rough instrument for these measurements, and this. 1.69 - 2.25mm2 I measured 5 or more options with a micrometer - the best that was 2.4, the worst - 2 with microns (!). At the stated 2.5mm. And 6ka pvs turned out to be generally less than 5 (something around 4.7-4.8, emnip).

Tsypra, approximately, from memory, was a long time ago.

I wonder if you measured the PVC correctly?

lightning wrote: If you need 4mm, take the one that says “6 mm”, if you need 1.5 mm, buy it, which is passed off as “2.5 mm” and so on.

Most manufacturers cruelly cut the multi-core, taking advantage of the difficulty of measuring resistance and cross-section. For example, I buy PVA 2.5 and get the real 1.35. I checked one core with a micrometer and multiplied. Monofilament is not cut so cruelly.

I wrote about monocore

helios1969 wrote: there is an error of 0.05, and this. 1.79mm is 2.5mm2, and 1.74 is 2.35mm2 (narrower), but in real life you can easily make a mistake by a factor of ten with such a rough instrument for these measurements, and this. 1.69 - 2.25mm2 I measured 5 or more options with a micrometer - the best that was 2.4, the worst - 2 with microns (!). At the stated 2.5mm. And 6ka pvs turned out to be generally less than 5 (something around 4.7-4.8, emnip).

Tsypra, approximately, from memory, was a long time ago.

Well, as if I didn’t think about the error of measurements with a caliper. You're right. But I have a bar with a pitch of 0.02 mm

Well, at least the blatant bullshit is already “cut off.”

Yes, there are still many factors to take into account: we bought a VVG-NG 2 x 2.5 cable from us in Kyiv - “Odessa cable” - it looks good, it bends with effort. And then I bought more from Leroy Merlin - it’s like Dneprpetrovsk does, but in appearance - the outer shell is visually thinner and the veins bend like tin (roughly how it feels). Either some kind of alloy, or, I also read, annealed copper or vice versa. But I’m not sure - someone who knows can correct me

Curious: why after the introductory 32A is there 40A (at the surge arrester)? Or: only for the refrigerator there is an AB 16A + RCD. Hmm, it’s probably like in a decent canteen, if for some reason the RCD goes off, the food won’t go rotten? Or on the gate AB 16A + RCD (probably a 5 kilowatt motor), the same thing - roller shutters? And the garage has no RCD. In fact, the loads, at least the ones indicated, are small. Why so many lines and RCDs is unclear. Or, apparently you like 4-pole AVs, but for some reason there are 3 at the input? I'm not saying there's anything wrong. Just commenting. And another question:

MIK wrote: The meaning of 1P+N machines has been described on the site more than once.

If possible, a link where this is described: I have never seen such a description. Curious to see what people think about this. But your explanation is wrong. The sum of AB currents after the RCD should not exceed In RCD. And further:

Metall wrote: Quote Message from SKL View message In front of each 25A RCD there should be an equal current circuit breaker, or better yet with a lower rating is not correct..

In this case, SKL is right. Perhaps Mr. Metall misunderstood what SKL wrote. Usually it sounds like this: “the rated current of the RCD should be chosen equal to, or one step higher than the rated current of the circuit breaker protecting this RCD.”

Electrolamp wrote: Ampere must be capitalized - this is the person’s last name

More precisely, apparently, like this: in the rules of the Russian language, abbreviations of basic units, if it is someone’s last name, are written with a capital letter, and subordinate units with a small letter, For example: ampere - A, kiloampere - kA, volt - V, kilovolt - kV etc. In any case, that’s what I was taught about 50 years ago. Now it may be different.

Diagram to help!

It is best and most accurate to carry out the calculation by first drawing up a diagram of the electrical wiring in the house.

The prepared project must indicate the following points:

The exact number of sockets, switches and distribution boxes, as well as the height of their mounting and the method of connection to the network (through distribution boxes in the rooms or directly from the panel)

Read more about the location of sockets in the apartment in the article: https://samelectrik.ru/pravilnoe-raspolozhenie-rozetok-v-kvartire.html. Installation locations for all lighting fixtures in the rooms: sconces, chandeliers and, most importantly, spotlights. By the way, before calculating the cable length for the electrical wiring, decide on the ceiling height

You must understand that the margin will be about 20 cm if the ceilings do not drop, and about 50 cm if the ceiling drops by 30 cm. The selected cable cross-section for the socket group, connecting powerful electrical appliances and lighting lines. For example, when designing lighting, wires with a cross-section of 3 * 1.5 mm2 are usually used, while sockets require a cable with more powerful conductors - 3 * 2.5 mm2. As for powerful electrical appliances, even to connect the hob, a cable with a cross section of 3 * 6 mm2 must be used (according to SP 256.1325800.2016 clause 10.2). As you understand, this is a very important point when calculating the length of the wiring, because... You will have to buy each type of wire separately in the required quantity. You can calculate the cable cross-section for power and current without any problems.

By the way, you also need to decide right away about connecting household appliances. Most likely, each group of electrical appliances will have to have a separate wire from the panel, and not just a new line from the distribution box in the room!

Having already prepared a visual wiring project, you can calculate how much cable is needed to supply electricity to a house or apartment. Of course, it would be ideal to immediately mark the walls and ceiling for wiring, and then simply use a tape measure to measure all the drawn lines and calculate the total number of each type of wire for the designed network, but, as practice shows, no one does this.

Additionally, you must make the following adjustments to the calculation that you may not have known about:

• Multiply the total number of wires by a factor of 1.1-1.2. This is a reserve that will not allow a situation where there are several meters short of the sockets and you have to go buy more material.
• For sockets and switches, leave a margin of at least 20 cm for connecting electrical wires.
• If you have not decided on the ceiling, it is better to calculate the reserve of at least 50 cm of cable for connecting the lamps.
• To assemble the distribution panel, the margin should be about 50 cm.

Using this principle, you can independently calculate the amount of materials for installing electrical wiring in a house or apartment. We will talk about a simpler calculation technology below.

Input cable to the apartment cross-section according to the standards

The cable with which a consumer object (house, apartment, workshop, store, etc.) is connected to a power source is called an input cable. Most often, the input cable is connected directly to the electrical energy meter. To protect the meter, a circuit breaker may be installed in front of it, but such a scheme must be agreed upon with the electricity supplier and reflected in the technical specifications. In this case, the circuit breaker is sealed to prevent energy from being drawn to the meter.

Electric stove power calculation

If you bought an electric stove and discovered that there was no wire included, you will have to worry about choosing it yourself, paying special attention to the brand and cross-section.
The main criterion for choosing a wire for an electric stove is the power of the device. Detailed markings can be found on the rear panel, usually indicated on a special plate. On the label, first of all, we look at the total power indicators: some models consume up to 11 kW, such models are suitable for professional use, but not for an apartment, where there are maximum permissible values ​​for power consumption. The design load of apartments depends on the category of the building and the conditions of the service company.

According to the Instructions for calculating electrical loads of residential buildings RM-2696, residential buildings of category I do not have an upper limit on the level of household electrification, which is determined by the customer. Residential buildings of category II have two levels of household electrification: with gas stoves and with electric stoves.

For houses with electric stoves, it is possible to get about 8.8 to 11 kW per apartment, this is the total power, so you need to choose a stove taking into account this parameter. The best option is up to 6 kW. Power data can also be found in the product data sheet.

Input cable into the house - types of connection and choice of brand

The power supply to the house is connected from the power line, the connection is made on the nearest pole (support). In some cases, when power line supports are remote from the site (for example, they are located across the road from the connected house), it may be necessary to install an additional support.

The input cable can be laid in two ways:

by air, from the power line support to the input distribution device;

underground in a prepared trench.

Air input

. Over-the-air power supply can be carried out by cable or self-supporting insulated wire (SIP).

Most types of installation cables (VVG, AVVG, etc.) are not intended for air suspension without the use of additional support. Such a support can be a stretched steel cable or wire. In the first case, the wiring is called cable, in the second - string. The ends of the cable or string are attached to the overhead line support on one side and to the building structures at the entrance to the house on the other. The cable being laid is rigidly attached to a supporting steel cable or wire.

Bare, uninsulated wires of overhead power distribution lines are gradually being replaced by self-supporting insulated wires (SIP). Power lines with insulated wires (VLI) are more reliable. The use of SIP eliminates the most common types of damage to overhead lines with bare conductors - overlapping of wires and their shorting by foreign objects. SIP is the most preferred option for an over-the-air input wire, which can be used when connecting to both an overhead line (line with a bare wire) and a VLI (line with an insulated wire).

The aerial connection of the input cable to power lines up to 1000 volts is carried out using SIP - 2 or SIP - 4 wires. The neutral and phase conductors of these wires are insulated. The zero conductor of SIP-2 is equipped with a steel supporting core, on which the wire is suspended. SIP-4 does not have a core; when it is suspended, the load is carried by the current-carrying conductors themselves.

Underground input

. For laying in a trench, a cable is selected that can withstand the weight of the soil and the shear force that occurs during its settlement. Therefore, the most suitable for this purpose are the VBBbShv cable with copper conductors or the AVBbShv aluminum input cable. The core insulation of these types of cables is made of PVC plastic. On top of the insulated cores there is a layer of PVC or unvulcanized rubber filling and an inner polyvinyl chloride sheath. This is followed by armor made of galvanized steel tape and an external pressed-out protective hose. VBBShV and AVBBShV conductors can be made single-wire or multi-wire, and the cross-section of the conductor can be in the shape of a circle or a sector.

Features of air and underground input. The advantages and disadvantages of installing the input cable over the air and underground are reflected in the table:

over-the-air input cable

over-the-air input cable

Differences between cables and wires

Novice craftsmen often ask the question of what to buy for laying electrical communications - cables or wires.

To solve this problem, you need to find out the difference between these products:

• According to GOST 15845-80 adopted in the USSR, the cable consists of one or more conductors (cores) coated with insulating material. Such elements, in turn, are enclosed in a plastic, polyethylene, metal or rubber shell, on top of which an additional protective cover, including an armored one, can be installed.
• Thanks to double insulation, the cable is reliably protected from moisture, light, exposure to aggressive substances, and mechanical damage. Increased strength and reliability characteristics allow the use of such products in the most difficult conditions, for example, under water and underground.
• The wire consists of one or more twisted strands, which can be either insulated or bare. They are usually enclosed in a non-metallic sheath (PVC, cross-linked polyethylene) or a braid/winding made of textile or wire. The security of a wire is much less than that of a cable, so its scope of use is quite limited.

According to professionals, to install a stationary electrical network in an apartment, it is necessary to use only cables. The wires can be used for portable electrical equipment, as well as in low-current systems with a voltage not exceeding 24V.

Wires differ from cables in having bare cores and a lighter protective sheath. They can be used to create electrical systems that do not have high requirements

When choosing materials for laying electrical networks in residential premises, preference should be given to impeccably high-quality products. Only in this case can you install safe, fire-resistant and reliable wiring that will ensure the delivery of electric current to every corner of the apartment.

Input cable to the apartment

General-purpose installation cables, such as VVG, are used as the input cable into the apartment. For systems with a working and protective neutral wire, the number of cable cores must be at least three.

The apartment input cable connects the floor panel and the apartment panel. In old-type houses, there may be no internal panel, and distribution within the apartment is carried out through connection boxes. When carrying out renovations in an old apartment, it is advisable to provide for the installation of an interior panel.

Important to know: Cable entry into the apartment is carried out using a two-wire or three-wire circuit. Input into apartments of modern houses is carried out using the TN–S or TN–C–S system using three wires:

L - phase conductor;

N - working neutral conductor;

PE - protective neutral wire.

In old houses, a TN-C grounding system is implemented, in which the working and protective neutral wires are combined, that is, power is supplied through two wires - L and PEN.

Cable Requirements

You can already understand that not every cable is suitable for connecting such equipment. This is logical, since under heavy overloads it will simply burn out and can cause equipment failure or a fire. Therefore, when choosing a cable for an electric stove, you should rely on the following important characteristics:

• Rated voltage;
• material that serves as the basis for wire cores;
• cable section;
• ease of connection to the device.

If we take the rated voltage for devices of well-known brands, then its value must be exactly no less than that provided by the conventional electrical network where the device needs to be connected. Now let's say a little more about the described indicators.

Probably one of the most important aspects that will play a role is the material used to make the cable cores. It's best if they are copper. This metal itself can be soldered if necessary. And the copper power wire is more flexible than its aluminum counterpart. But the cost of a copper solution will be higher. If the choice falls on an aluminum analogue, then you need to understand that its installation should not be carried out in materials that burn. You can find out what the electrical wire is made of thanks to special markings on the product itself.

Another important parameter will be the cross-section - it must correspond to the load, which will be indicated in amperes. To calculate current strength, you need to divide the total power of all electrical appliances that are connected to a given network by voltage.

If we talk directly about numbers, then, as a rule, most solutions from well-known brands (Samsung or Electrolux) are designed for electricity consumption of just under 4 kW. For this reason, the safety margin of the wire needs to be selected based on power somewhere with a focus on this indicator.

To ensure that the operation of the device is as safe as possible, you should also pay attention to the following points.

• If you need to lay the cord directly from the panel to the electric stove, a cord with a standard cross-section of 1.5 square meters is sufficient. mm.
• If other electrical appliances will be connected between the device and the panel, then you should have a cable with a cross-section of at least 2.5 square meters. mm. This option will provide the necessary reserve in case of connecting some other household appliances.

Another important parameter is the phase connection. It will depend on the number of cores in the cable. The wire can be 3 or 5 wires. The number of cores will depend on the power supply network in the room. And it can be either 1-phase or 3-phase. If the first option, then you will need to purchase a wire with three cores, and if the second - with five.

You should also find out whether the purchased equipment supports the type of connection that was selected. For example, stoves with a power of up to 5 kW are usually connected to a 1-phase network, while more powerful ones have a 2 or 3-phase connection. The type of cable that can be used will also be important, but more on that below.

Connection to a three-phase 380 V network

In this case, an automatic machine and an RCD for a three-phase network are purchased; the wires must be five-core (the cross-section is determined using the same table, only the value must be looked at in the 380 V column). The plug and socket must also have five contacts.

The connection process itself will not differ in anything, only in the number of wires. The difference will be when connecting the wire to the output terminals of the electric stove. Only one jumper will be installed - on pins 5 and 6. All others are connected with separate conductors.

Connection diagram for an electric stove to a three-phase network

It is also necessary to monitor the position of “ground” and “neutral” (or they also say “zero”). The color matching of the conductors on the phases is not critical, but it is more convenient if they also match.

Grounding an electric stove

An electric stove must be grounded. All work in houses is divided into 2 categories:

• the presence of a common grounding circuit;
• lack of a grounding loop.

In the first case, you will need a copper flexible wire with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm2, which must be laid from the electrical panel and connected to the stove body. In the second case, installing an RCD, performing grounding (using a protective neutral conductor) or both methods together will help.

Where there is no centralized gas supply, an electric stove is a necessary kitchen device, and its operation and service life depend on how it is connected. When choosing a cable or wire, you need to choose the right brand, wire cross-section and quantity, and also pay attention to the manufacturer of this product.

And do not forget that electric current is a source of increased danger, leading to undesirable consequences. Therefore, it is better to entrust the installation of an electric stove to specialists who know all the intricacies of such a connection, and are also well versed in the necessary materials, accessories, fixtures and know how to use control and measuring equipment.

Types of wires

In the case of the wire brand, the best solution would be the PVS or KG option. The first type stands for vinyl connecting wire. This product has copper conductors, each of which is protected by insulation and all of which are contained in a white sheath. Such a power wire can withstand voltages up to 450 V, and the insulating material does not burn, which allows the wire in question to be heat-resistant.

It is also characterized by high strength and excellent bending resistance. It can even be used in unheated and damp buildings, where it will last 6–10 years, depending on operating conditions. Excellent for connecting electric stoves.

If we talk about wire type KG, then its name stands for flexible cable. Its shell is made of a special type of rubber. In addition, the same sheath protects tinned copper conductors. Between the wires there is a special film that performs a protective function. It must prevent the wires from sticking together due to heat from use.

Typically, a KG wire contains from 1 to 5 cores. As you can understand, the core cross-section determines the power that the cable can withstand. This cable is operated in the temperature range from -40 to +50 degrees. The KG cable can withstand voltages up to 660 V. Typically, this wire has the following designation: KG 3x5+1x4. This means that there are 3-phase conductors with a cross-section of 5 square meters. mm, and one grounding conductor with a cross section of 4 sq. mm.

Regardless of which wire will be selected to connect the electric stove , it should be purchased with a reserve length so that the product can be moved. In addition, the wiring running inside the room and at the entrance to the apartment must be of high quality, which should also be checked before starting the connection.