The main reasons why your iron does not heat up

Since then, when people took off animal skins and began to wear woven clothes, the question arose of removing folds and wrinkles from things after washing. Things were pressed down with flat stones, ironed with frying pans filled with hot coals, and everything else housewives could come up with until the American inventor Henry Seely patented an electric iron on June 6, 1882.

And only in 1903, the American entrepreneur Earl Richardson put the invention into practice by producing the first electrically heated iron, which seamstresses really liked.

The main components of the iron and the tasks they perform

Main components

1. An electrical wire that connects to a terminal block.
2. Thermostat, which is responsible for regulating the temperature.
3. A heating element.
4. The sole is perforated with holes for steam to escape.
5. Water supply system, which includes a boiler, supply keys, tubes, nozzle, etc.

Operating principle of the device

1. A hidden heating element heats up the metal sole of the iron when the device is plugged in.
2. The degree of heating is regulated using a bimetallic plate. As the temperature rises, it deforms and opens the contacts. The heating intensity is determined by the thermostat.
3. When you press the supply button, the water poured into the boiler is transferred in drops to the sole, there it comes into contact with the heated surface and forms steam.

Some models from well-known manufacturers are equipped with an automatic shutdown board, an intelligent control system, an anti-scale cartridge built into the boiler and other components.

Video

To learn more about the procedure for disassembling Vitek irons models VT-1207, VT-1229, VT-12125, watch the video:

About the author:

Electronic engineer with many years of experience. For several years he was involved in organizing the repair of household appliances, including washing machines. Loves sport fishing, water tourism and travel.

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Interesting!

The first officially patented washing machine was made of wood and was a box with a frame, half filled with wooden balls. Laundry for washing and detergent were loaded inside and the frame was moved using a lever, which, in turn, made the balls move and grind the laundry.

Determining the cause of the breakdown

Despite the differences in the designs of budget and expensive multifunctional models, all the main malfunctions of irons can be combined into three groups:

1. The iron does not turn on (no indication).
2. It turned on, but stopped heating.
3. No steam is supplied and water does not splash.

In some models, the automatic shutdown system may break down (the control board has burned out). It is hidden in the handle of the device and can only be replaced at a service center.

Let's take a closer look at the main causes of iron failure and methods for eliminating them.

The iron does not turn on

If the iron does not turn on and does not heat up, the likely cause of the malfunction is wear on the cord and failure of the fuse.

Cord wear

Sometimes the defect can be seen visually - the cable winding is worn out, twisted, the wires are visible through the weaving, and their insulation is damaged.

To eliminate or eliminate this malfunction, you should:

1. Get to the contacts by unscrewing the mounting bolts and removing the back panel.
2. Trim the damaged area (if the defect is visible visually and the length of the cord allows). After cleaning the contacts, you need to reconnect the rest of the cable and check whether the sole starts to heat up.
3. If there is no external damage, you should test the cord with a multimeter, and if there is no resistance, replace it with a new one.

If the cable is in good condition, you need to remove the housing to get to the base and key components of the device.

Thermal fuse has blown

If the cord is in order, the cause of the malfunction may be a failed thermal fuse. This element is built into the circuit and serves to protect the device. If the surface temperature of the heating element exceeds the permissible value, the fuse burns out. The element is located next to the thermostat, often hidden by a layer of insulation.

To check the functionality of the thermal fuse, you need to measure its resistance. If the value shown by the ohmmeter is zero, the element is faulty.

What's wrong with anyone

Tefal

The Tefal iron repair is unique. First, its body is removed along with the top cover. Second, the nose screw is hidden under the water dispenser cover (left and center in the picture); it is visible through translucent plastic. Third, to get to the pumps, you need to remove the top cover with the housing removed. Its screw is hidden under the buttons (on the right in the figure), and it must be unscrewed so that the cover can be removed.

Fastening the lid of the Tefal iron

Finally, Tefal is a leader in the production of cordless irons. They come in several types: with contacts on the platform, with a heat-accumulating sole, with a discardable (shooting) cord. The first two are unsuitable for amateur repairs, but the last one, which seems to be faulty, may turn out to be quite functional.

The cord from the iron is thrown away by a pusher operating from a separate trigger mechanism with its own bimetallic plate. That is, if you, for example, ironed the cuffs and want to heat up the iron further by inserting the cord, but it doesn’t work, then the iron has not cooled down enough. You need to let it cool further, insert the cord, turn the dial to higher heat and wait until the cord bounces off. It’s inconvenient, of course, which is why irons with a detachable cord are not in great demand.

Phillips

A special feature of Philips irons is their double body. For example, the popular Azur is first dealt with in the usual sequence, poses. And in the figure, but the back cover is secured with 2 screws from the bottom. Under the decorative casing with pumps there is an internal one with protection (pos. B), and already under it there is a massive sole (in fact, the third casing) with a thermostat and thermal pad, pos. IN.

Disassembling the Philips Azur iron

Bosch

Fastening the back cover of the Bosch iron

The design of Bosch irons can be considered typical, and disassembling Bosch irons is even easier than others: the back cover is on one screw and without tricky fasteners. To remove it, you need to unscrew the screw and pull back the input hose of the power cord (see the figure on the right), the cover will fold back together with the hinge, after which further disassembly has no special features.

Brown

Rusted iron steam generator

The congenital defect of inexpensive Brown irons is the thin-walled steam generator tank made of galvanized steel and the fastening of the thermostat casing with foldable legs made of the same. Both rust perfectly, see fig. on the right, after which repairing the iron loses its meaning.

How to make steam

Improper descaling of the iron

The same congenital defect of all steam irons without exception is scale. It is difficult to remove it from the non-removable tank of the steam generator, and in no case should you boil the iron in a frying pan with vinegar to do this, as in Fig. Acetic acid fumes will make the plastic brittle, corrode the nickel on the sole to the point of roughness, and if it is coated with Teflon, it will begin to peel off. Firstly, the iron must be disassembled down to the sole for cleaning, see for example. video on how to clean Philips 3240:

The iron turns on but does not heat

If the iron turns on (the indicator is on), but does not heat up, it means that current is supplied to the device. The cause of the breakdown may be a burnt heating element or thermostat. To determine the malfunction, you need to examine both elements.

Checking the serviceability of the heating element

As a rule, heating indicators are connected to the terminals of the heating element. Therefore, if the light continues to burn and the sole remains cold, the cause of the malfunction may be a burnt-out heating element. The element is usually tightly mounted into the sole and cannot be replaced.

To check the heater, you need to check its contacts with a multimeter. If there is no resistance, we can conclude that the part is faulty.

Checking the serviceability of the thermostat

If the iron does not heat up and the light is on, the problem may lie in a faulty thermostat. To get to this unit, the device must be completely disassembled.

After removing the housing, it is necessary to visually assess the condition of the contacts and connections for breaks and oxidation. If external damage is visible, it is necessary to clean it with fine-grained sandpaper. If not, determine the performance of the part by measuring the resistance, or checking the voltage with a screwdriver with an indicator, sequentially pressing it against the contacts. Since the iron must be plugged in to test with a screwdriver, extreme care must be taken when taking measurements.

As a rule, in models from well-known manufacturers, the thermal fuse is built into the gap in the contacts of the heating element on one side, and the thermostat is built into the gap on the other. For example, if your Philips iron does not turn on, one of the listed items may be faulty. In this case, there will be no resistance between the contacts of the heating element. Accordingly, to detect the true cause of the malfunction, it is necessary to ring each section, starting with the fuse (the likelihood of detecting a burnt-out thermostat with a working protective element is extremely low).

DIY electric iron repair

Attention! Care should be taken when repairing an electric iron. Touching exposed parts of a circuit connected to an electrical outlet may result in electric shock. Don't forget to remove the plug from the socket!

Any home handyman, even one who has no experience in repairing household appliances, can carry out repairs on his own iron. After all, there are few electrical parts in the iron, and you can check them with any indicator or multimeter. It is often more difficult to disassemble an iron than to repair it. Let's look at the disassembly and repair technology using the example of two models from Philips and Braun.

Irons stop working for one of the following reasons, listed by frequency of occurrence: a broken power cord, poor contact of the terminals where the cord is connected to the electrical circuit, oxidation of the contacts in the thermostat, a malfunction of the thermal fuse.

Checking the service cord

Since during ironing the power cord is constantly bent and the greatest bending occurs at the point where the cord enters the body of the iron, the wires in the cord usually fray at this point. This malfunction begins to appear when the iron is still heating up normally, but when ironing, the heating on indicator blinks, without being accompanied by a click of the thermostat switch.

If the insulation of the conductors in the cord frays, a short circuit may occur with an external manifestation in the form of a flash of fire with a loud bang and tripping of the circuit breaker in the panel. In this case, you need to unplug the iron from the socket and begin repairing it yourself. A short circuit in the iron cord is not dangerous for humans, but it is very impressive for housewives.

If the iron stops heating, then first of all you need to check the presence of voltage in the outlet by connecting any other electrical appliance to it, such as a table lamp, or connect the iron to another outlet. Before doing this, do not forget to turn the temperature regulator on the iron clockwise at least to the first circle on the scale. In the extreme left position of the thermostat knob, the iron can be turned off.

If the socket is working properly and the iron does not heat up, then with the cord plug inserted into the network, move it at the entrance to the iron body, simultaneously pressing, while observing the power-on indicator. The same operation must be done in the area where the cord enters the power plug. If the indicator lights up even for a moment, it means that there is definitely a wire break in the power cord and you will have to take the iron to a service workshop or repair it yourself.

Using a multimeter or pointer tester

If you have a multimeter or pointer tester, you can check the power cord without connecting it to the network, which is safer by connecting the probes of the device, turned on in resistance measurement mode, to the pins of the power plug. A working iron should have a resistance of about 30 ohms. Even a slight change in the reading of the device when moving the cord will indicate the presence of a broken wire. The insulation resistance of the iron, measured between any pin of the plug and its body, should be equal to infinity.

If the power cord is frayed at the point where it enters the electrical plug, then there is no need to disassemble the iron, but it will be enough to replace the plug with a new one, cutting it off at the point where the wire is damaged.

If the power cord is frayed at the entrance to the iron or the proposed method does not allow you to determine the faulty cord, you will have to disassemble the iron. Disassembling the iron begins with removing the back cover. Difficulties may arise here due to the lack of a suitable bit for the head of the screws. For example, I don’t have bits for an asterisk slot with a pin in the center, and I unscrew such screws with a flat-head screwdriver with a suitable blade width. After removing the cover from the iron, all the contacts necessary to find the faulty part in the iron will become available. It will be possible, without further disassembling the iron, to check the integrity of the power cord, the serviceability of the heating element and the thermostat.

As you can see in the photo of the Philips iron, three wires come out of the power cord, connected using slip-on terminals to the terminals of the iron in insulation of different colors. The color of the insulation is the marking of the wires.

Although there is no international standard yet, most European and Asian manufacturers of electrical appliances have adopted yellow-green

The insulation color is used to mark the grounding wire (which is usually denoted in Latin letters
PE
),
brown
for the phase wire (
L
), and
light blue
for the neutral wire (
N
). The letter designation is usually printed on the iron body next to the corresponding terminal.

Conductor in yellow-green

color is grounding, serves to ensure safety, and does not affect the operation of the iron.
The current-carrying wires are brown
and
light blue
insulated, so they need to be checked.

Using a table lamp

There are many ways to check the power cord of an iron and it all depends on what tools the home technician has at hand. If you don’t have any equipment at hand, then you can use the simplest method.

To do this, you first need to remove the cord plug terminals from the iron terminals. The slip-on terminals on the iron contacts are usually held in place by latches, and in order for them to be easily removed, you need to press the latch with a sharp object, as shown in the photo. At the same time, you need to inspect the contacts for oxidation or burning, and if any are present, clean the contacts from the bottom and top to a shine using fine sandpaper. If the terminals are put on without effort, then you need to tighten them with pliers. Step-by-step instructions for repairing terminal connections in photographs are given in the article “Restoring terminal contact.” After this, you need to put the terminals in place and check the operation of the iron by connecting it to the network. It is quite possible that this was the fault and the iron will work.

If the terminal connections are in order, then you need to remove the terminals attached to the brown and blue wires and connect them to the plug pins of any electrical appliance using insulating tape, a table lamp with an incandescent or LED bulb is best suited for this. The switch in the table lamp must be in the on position. After this, plug in the iron's plug and crumple the iron's wire at the point where it enters the body and at the plug. If the table lamp shines steadily, it means that the iron wire is working properly and you will have to further look for the fault.

Using a phase indicator

If you have an indicator for determining the phase, then you can use it to check not only the serviceability of the power cord, but also the functionality of all other elements of the iron.

To check the cord with an indicator, with the cover removed, when there is access to the terminals, turn on the iron and carefully, in any order, first touch the blue wire with the indicator probe, and then the brown one. Here, depending on the type of malfunction of the iron and the position of the plug in the socket, there are several options for the behavior of the indicator.

If, when you touch one of the wires, the indicator lights up, but does not light up on the other, it means that the wire that the indicator lights up when you touch it is working properly. If it lights up in both cases, it means the wire that is connected to the phase in the socket is working and the entire circuit of the iron, including the thermostat, fuse and heating element, too.

All that remains is to determine which of the wires is broken. To do this, you need to remove the plug from the socket, disconnect from the iron any of the plug-in terminals coming from the blue or brown wires and insulate it. Next, insert the plug into the socket in the same way and again check for phase presence. If there is a phase on both terminals of the iron, then the wire with the removed terminal is broken, and all parts of the iron are in working order. And if there is no phase anywhere, then the wire connected to the iron terminal is broken.

Using an additional power cord

If you have a power cord from any unnecessary household electrical appliance, for example a faulty electric kettle, then you can temporarily use this cord to check the power cord of an electric iron. To do this, just remove the terminals from the brown and blue wires from the iron's terminals, connect the bare ends of the donor power cord and plug the plug into the network for a few seconds. If the indicator lights up and the iron starts to heat up, it means there is a problem with the power cord.

You can even use a cord to connect to household electrical wiring from a desktop computer. To do this, you need to connect the outermost contacts of the connector for connecting to the system unit, in the photo on the left, using wire jumpers to the above-mentioned iron terminals.

Iron power cord repair

If the problem with the iron is a frayed power cord, then it is best to replace it with a new one. When choosing a replacement cord, you should keep in mind that irons use a special cord of increased flexibility and to prevent its plastic insulation from melting in case of accidental contact with a heated sole, it is covered with a fabric sheath. Therefore, it is not permissible to use a power cord from any other household electrical appliance for replacement, except as a temporary measure.

If it is not possible or you do not want to purchase a new power cord, then it can be successfully repaired. The repair consists of replacing the electrical plug if the wires are frayed at the exit from it or cutting off the wire at the entrance to the iron and reinstalling the plug-in terminals.

I will not dwell in detail on the technology of replacing an electrical plug and reinstalling the slip-on terminals, since these issues are discussed in detail in the articles “How to change an electrical plug on a wire” and “Restoring terminal contact.”

Checking a tubular electric heater (TEH)

Heating elements in irons rarely fail, and if the heating element is faulty, then the iron has to be thrown away. To check the heating element, it is enough to remove only the back cover from it. Typically, the terminals of the heating element are connected to the outer terminals and, as a rule, the terminals of the heating on indicator are connected to the same terminals. Therefore, if the indicator lights up but there is no heating, then the reason for this may be a break in the heating element’s spiral or poor contact at the points where the iron leads are welded to the contact rods coming out of the heating element.

There are models of irons, such as the Braun model shown in the photograph, in which the thermostat is connected to the break of one terminal of the heating element, and the thermal fuse is connected to the break of the other. In this case, if the thermal fuse is faulty, then an erroneous conclusion can be made that the heating element is faulty. The final conclusion about the condition of the heating element can only be made after complete disassembly of the iron.

The photo demonstrates a method for checking a heating element using a multimeter. You can learn more about this and other methods of checking the heating element from the website article “How to check and ring the heating element.”

Checking the serviceability of the iron thermostat

In order to get to the thermostat to check, you need to completely disassemble the iron. The handle of the iron and the plastic part of the body are attached to its metal part using screws and latches. There are a huge number of iron models, even from one manufacturer, and each of them has its own mounting methods, but there are general rules.

One attachment point is usually located near the nose of the iron and the plastic body is fixed with a self-tapping screw, as in this photo of a Philips iron. In this model, the self-tapping screw is located under the steam quantity adjustment knob. To get to the head of the screw, you need to turn the handle counterclockwise until it stops and pull it up. After removing the steam supply adjustment unit, the screw can be unscrewed.

In the Braun iron model that I had to repair, the self-tapping screw was hidden under the decorative cap of the water nozzle. To unscrew the screw, I had to remove the nozzle. It just fit tightly. By the way, it can be removed for cleaning if it becomes clogged.

The second attachment point is usually located in the area where the power cord enters. The plastic body of the iron can be attached either with self-tapping screws or with latches. The Philips iron model shown in the photo uses a threaded mounting method. From the point of view of the repairability of the iron, fastening with self-tapping screws is preferable, since during disassembly the risk of damage to the fastening elements of the plastic case is reduced.

And in the Braun iron model, the plastic part of the body with the handle is secured using two latches hooked onto the eyes. To disassemble, you need to disengage the latches by moving them apart.

This work must be done carefully so as not to break the latches and eyes. The latches are disengaged, and now the body part with the handle can be separated from the iron. It, in turn, is attached to the adapter cover with screws or using flags.

In this photo of a Philips iron, the cover is secured to the soleplate using three screws. Before unscrewing the screws, you need to remove the power indicator, which is held in place using slip-on terminals on the iron's terminals.

And on the Braun iron model, the lid is secured to the sole using four metal flags threaded through slots and turned. To release the cover, use pliers to turn the flags so that they align with the slots. In this iron, two flags at the spout were completely rusted, and I had to bend a special adapter from a steel strip and cut two threads in it for screw fastening.

After removing the cover, the thermostat assembly will become accessible for testing and repair. First of all, you need to inspect the condition of the contacts. The Philips iron also has a thermal fuse in the thermostat assembly. When cold, the contacts must be closed.

If the appearance of the contacts does not cause suspicion, then you need to ring them using a dial tester or multimeter turned on in the minimum resistance measurement mode. The photo on the left shows the continuity diagram of the thermal fuse contacts, and on the right - the thermostat. The multimeter should show zero reading. If the multimeter shows 1, and the dial tester shows infinity, it means that the fault lies in the contacts; they are oxidized and require cleaning.

Checking the contacts of the thermostat assembly can also be checked using an indicator to find the phase according to the method of checking the power cord described above, touching one and the other contacts in succession. If the indicator lights up when you touch one contact and not the other, it means the contacts are oxidized.

You can do without checking by immediately cleaning the contacts of the thermostat and thermal fuse with sandpaper. Then turn on the iron, it should work.

If you don’t have any instruments at hand to check the contacts, you can plug in the iron and use a screwdriver blade with a well-insulated plastic handle to short-circuit the contacts. If the indicator lights up and the iron starts to heat up, it means the contacts are burnt. Extreme caution should not be forgotten.

To clean the contacts, you need to insert a narrow strip of fine sandpaper between the contacts and pull it a dozen times. Next, turn the strip 180° and clean the second contact of the contact pair. It is useful to clean the contacts of the thermostat to extend the life of the iron if, for example, when repairing the steam supply system, the iron had to be disassembled.

No steam is produced, no water splashes

If the iron has been in use for a long time, the owner may encounter a situation where the iron stops steaming. At the same time, it turns on regularly and maintains the temperature in accordance with the selected mode.

There can be two possible causes of malfunctions:

• blockage;
• failure of the anti-drip system.

If hard water is poured into the iron, after several months of operation, deposits in the tubes, nozzles, and holes in the soleplate can accumulate in such quantities that they block the steam output.

To remove the blockage, you need to descale the iron according to the instructions. A clogged nozzle can be cleaned mechanically using a sharp needle. If necessary, you can use the following descaling products:

1. Citric acid, soda or vinegar poured into the tank in certain proportions.
2. Chemicals: MAGIC POWER, Topperr, Top House, etc.

Recommendations and prevention

To prevent iron malfunctions, it is best to take care of careful care in advance.

1. Prepare a clean ironing board and check for any stuck dust, wool, lint or other debris on the soleplate of the iron. When heated, this can affect the operation of the iron and ruin the item you are ironing.
2. It is better to iron woolen items, silk fabrics, organza through a special fabric. In the case of wool, some of the lint may remain on the soleplate of the iron, and delicate fabrics are easily damaged, and stains and scorch marks may remain on them.
3. Adjust the temperature according to the fabric material.
4. Items made of faux fur, suede, and leather are not recommended to be ironed using steam. Steam exposure negatively affects the fibers (they can melt and remain on the base of the iron).
5. It is advisable to iron matte fabrics from the inside out so that unnecessary shine does not appear on them after ironing.
6. Keep the iron out of the reach of children and pets. So, a dog can easily fray the wire, causing the iron to stop functioning.

Repair Tips

An equipment owner who decides to repair an iron at home may find the following tips useful:

1. The case elements of modern models (Philips, Bork, Tefal, etc.) are held together not only by screws, but also by plastic latches. Therefore, you should disassemble the device very carefully so as not to damage the mount.
2. When checking the temperature regulator, you need to make sure that it is turned on by turning the pin left and right. When turned off, it will erroneously show no resistance.
3. If there is no replacement fuse, the burnt element can be removed from the circuit. The iron will still work, however, the next time it overheats, the heating element or thermostat will fail.
4. To assemble the device in the required sequence (attaching the cover, body, handle, etc.), the key stages of the work should be photographed.

Compared to other household appliances, the iron has a fairly simple design. It can be repaired by a person with minimal skills in working with electrical equipment.

If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and can be repaired yourself. If you know how to use a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can do it. We will talk about how to repair an iron with your own hands in this article.

Features of choosing spare parts

To choose high-quality spare parts for repairing a Philips steam generator, you need to adhere to the following recommendations :

• make purchases in stores that do not arouse suspicion;
• demand a receipt and warranty card from the seller;
• purchase parts in branded packaging;
• Inspect parts before purchasing for damage.

Many parts can be checked for functionality directly in the store. Sellers who are confident in the quality of their goods do not refuse this request from buyers.

General device

Since irons are produced by many different companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating speed, quality of spare parts, etc. But the general structure remains the same. Available:

• Sole with a heating element built into it. If there is a steamer function, there are a number of holes in the sole for steam to escape.
• Thermostat with a handle that allows you to set the required heating temperature for the sole.
• Container/reservoir for water used for steaming.
• There is a nozzle for spraying water and forcing steam out. There is also a steam intensity regulator. With its help, the frequency of automatic supply of evaporated water is set.
• The iron is connected to the network using an electrical cord, which is attached to a contact block located in the back under the plastic cover.

General structure of an electric iron

Once you have become familiar with what is where, you can begin repairing the iron yourself.

Recommended heating temperature for fabric iron soleplate

The recommended temperature for heating the soleplate of the iron, depending on the position of the temperature control knob associated with the recommended temperature for ironing fabrics, is shown in the table.

What will you need for work?

To work, you will need a set of screwdrivers - Phillips and flathead. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card to pry off parts of the iron with latches. To check the integrity of the parts you will need a multimeter (read how to use it here). You may also need a soldering iron if you need to change any spare parts.

Tools that may be needed when repairing an iron

That's all from tools, but in the process of work sometimes you need electrical tape or heat-shrinkable tubes, you may need sandpaper and pliers.

How to disassemble an iron

The first difficulty faced by those who want to repair the iron themselves is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are several screws that are visible and are not difficult to unscrew. In addition to screws, there may be latches. So, having unscrewed all the visible fasteners, we pry up the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, and separate the cover from the body.

Underneath there is a terminal block to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you can no longer disassemble the iron. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.

Some irons - Philips, Tefal - still have bolts under the cover. We also unscrew them. In general, if we see fasteners, we remove them.

Removing the back cover is the first thing to do when disassembling the iron.

Each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. That is why difficulties arise. But there are several points that are found in almost any manufacturer.

You immediately need to remove the temperature control dial and the steam button, to do this you need to hold them in your fingers and pull them up. The buttons may have latches, so you may need something thin so that you can press them out a little - you can pry them off with a screwdriver.

To disassemble the iron you need to remove the buttons

Some irons, such as the Rowenta, as in the photo, have bolts on the handle (some Scarlet models have them). If there are any, unscrew them. There is also a screw hidden under the removed buttons; we unscrew that too. Then remove the top plastic parts. They are usually secured with snap locks. To make it easier to remove them, you can insert a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) into the lock.

There are usually a number of bolts under the covers. Having unscrewed them, we continue disassembling until the body and sole are separated. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give more precise recommendations - there are too many different designs. What can be advised is to act slowly and carefully. And several videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.

Operating principle and electrical circuit of the iron

Electrical circuit diagram

If you look at the electrical diagram of a Braun iron, you might think that this is a circuit for an electric heater or an electric kettle. And this is not surprising; the electrical circuits of all the listed devices are not much different. The differences lie in the design of these household appliances due to their different purposes.

The 220 V supply voltage is supplied through a flexible heat-resistant cord with a molded plug to the XP connector installed in the iron body. The PE terminal is a grounding terminal, does not take part in the operation and serves to protect a person from electric shock in the event of a breakdown of the insulation on the housing. The PE wire in the cord is usually yellow-green

colors.

If the iron is connected to a network without a ground loop, then the PE wire is not used. Terminals L (phase) and N (zero) in the iron are equivalent; which terminal receives zero or phase does not matter.

From terminal L, current is supplied to the Temperature Regulator, and if its contacts are closed, then further to one of the terminals of the heating element. From terminal N, current flows through a thermal fuse to the second terminal of the heating element. A neon light bulb is connected parallel to the heating element terminals through resistor R, which lights up when voltage is applied to the heating element and the iron heats up.

Thermostat

In order for the iron to start heating, it is necessary to apply supply voltage to a tubular electric heater (TEH) pressed into the sole of the iron. To quickly heat the sole, high-power heating elements are used, from 1000 to 2200 W. If such power is constantly supplied, then within a few minutes the sole of the iron will heat up red-hot and it will be impossible to iron things without ruining them. To iron items made of nylon and anide, an iron temperature of 95-110°C is required, and items made of linen require an iron temperature of 210-230°C. Therefore, to set the required temperature when ironing items made from different fabrics, there is a temperature control unit.

The temperature control unit is controlled using a round knob located in the central part under the handle of the iron. When turning the knob clockwise, the heating temperature will increase; when rotating counterclockwise, the heating temperature of the soleplate will be lower.

Rotation from the handle to the thermostat assembly is transmitted through an adapter in the form of a sleeve or a metal angle placed on the threaded rod of the thermostat. The handle on the iron body is held in place by several latches. To remove the handle, just pry it by the edge with a little force using the blade of a screwdriver.

The operation of the thermostat of the Philips iron and any other manufacturer is ensured by installing a bimetallic plate, which is a strip of two metals sintered over the entire surface with different coefficients of linear expansion. When the temperature changes, each metal expands to a different extent and as a result the plate bends.

In the thermostat, the plate is connected through a ceramic rod to a bistable switch. The principle of its operation is based on the fact that, thanks to a flat curved spring, when passing through the equilibrium point, the contacts instantly open or close. Speed ​​of action is necessary to reduce the burning of contacts as a result of the formation of a spark when they open. The switching point of the switch can be changed by rotating the knob on the body of the iron and thus control the heating temperature of the soleplate. When you turn the thermostat switch on and off, a characteristic soft click is heard.

Thermal fuse

To increase the safety of operating the iron in the event that the thermostat breaks down, for example, the contacts are welded together, modern models (there was no thermal fuse in Soviet irons) install a thermal fuse FUt, designed for an operating temperature of 240°C. When this temperature is exceeded, the thermal fuse breaks the circuit and voltage is no longer supplied to the heating element. In this case, what position the temperature control knob is in does not matter.

There are three types of thermal fuse designs, as in the photo, and they all work on the principle of opening contacts due to bending of the bimetallic plate as a result of heating. In the photo on the left is a thermal fuse for a Philips iron, and at the bottom right is a Braun one. Usually, after the temperature of the sole drops below 240°C, the thermal fuse is restored. It turns out that the thermal fuse works like a thermostat, but maintains a temperature suitable for ironing only linen items.

To indicate the supply voltage to the heating element, a neon light bulb HL is connected parallel to its terminals through a current-limiting resistor R. The indicator does not affect the operation of the iron, but allows you to judge its performance. If the light is on, but the iron does not heat up, it means that the heating element winding is broken or there is poor contact at the point where its leads are connected to the circuit.

Wiring diagram

The entire electrical circuit of the iron is mounted on the opposite side of the soleplate, made of high-strength aluminum alloy. This photo shows the wiring diagram of a Philips electric iron. Wiring diagrams of irons from other manufacturers and models of irons differ slightly from those shown in the photo.

The supply voltage of 220 V is supplied from the power cord using plug-in terminals placed on pins 3 and 4. Pin 4 is connected to pin 5 and one of the heating element pins. From pin 3, the supply voltage is supplied to the thermal fuse and then to the iron’s thermostat, and from it via the bus to the second terminal of the heating element. Between pins 1 and 5, a neon light bulb is connected through a current-limiting resistor. Pin 2 is grounding and is riveted directly to the sole of the iron. All current-carrying busbars of the circuit are made of iron, and in this case this is justified, since the heat generated in the busbars is used to heat the iron.

Power cord

Failure of an electrical cord is a fairly common type of breakdown. With such damage, the iron may not turn on at all or work in fits and starts, and the sole may not heat up well. The cord may bend or curl, the insulation may be damaged at the bends, and some wires may fray completely or partially. If there is such damage, it is better to replace the cord, regardless of whether it is the cause or not. In any case, all places with damaged insulation must be insulated.

In case of any damage, any iron repair begins with checking the cord. To accurately determine whether it is in normal condition or not, you need to ring it. To do this, just remove the back cover. The terminal block to which the cord is connected will become accessible. You will need a tester or multimeter. We put it in the dialing mode, press one probe to one contact of the plug, and touch the second one to one of the wires on the block. When you touch the “correct” wire, the multimeter should make a squeaking noise. This means that the wire is intact.

Checking the integrity of the power cord

The color of the conductor insulation can be any, but yellow-green is necessarily grounding (it must be checked by installing a probe on a small metal plate at the bottom of the plug). The other two are connected to the pins of the plug. One of these two wires should be connected to the pin to which you pressed the multimeter probe. We repeat the same operation with another pin.

To be completely sure that the cord is in good working order, you need to wrinkle/twist it during testing. Especially in places where there are problems with insulation. If the squeak from such actions is interrupted, it is better to replace the cord. It must also be replaced if one or both pins “do not ring.” You may be lucky and you won’t need further repairs to your iron.

Checking the performance of the heating element

If the iron does not heat up at all, the heating element may have burned out. If this is the case, then it is worth buying a new iron, since a replacement will cost almost the same amount. But first of all, you need to make sure that the heating element is to blame.

These are the outputs of the iron heating element

In order to check the heating element, we get to the very sole of the iron. On it, closer to the back, there are two outputs of the heating element. We move the multimeter to the resistance measurement position (up to 1000 Ohms), and take measurements. If the numbers on the display are about 25o Ohm, then the heating element is normal, if more, it’s burned out. As has already been said, if the heating element burns out, it is not worth repairing the iron - it is more profitable to buy a new one.

Checking the thermostat

The thermostat looks like a plate with a group of contacts and a protruding plastic pin, onto which a disk is then placed.

This is the thermostat on the iron

Two contacts fit to the plate. We install multimeter probes on them and check their functionality (call them). In the “off” position, the sound of the multimeter should disappear; when turned on and turned to any position, it should continue to sound.

The damage may be that in the “on” position there is still no contact - then the iron does not heat at all. There may be a different situation - it is not turned off by the regulator and/or does not respond to the position of the regulator. Both reasons are in contacts. And most likely they got burnt.

In the first case, carbon deposits may interfere, which can be cleaned off by inserting a piece of fine-grain sandpaper between the contacts and “sliding” along the contacts a couple of times. If you don’t have sandpaper, you can use a nail file, but you need to act carefully - the temperature settings depend on the bending of the plates. So you can’t bend them too much.

In the second case - if the iron does not turn off - the contacts may have become burnt or fused. Repairing the iron in this case consists of trying to separate them. But such a trick rarely succeeds. The solution is to replace it.

Thermostat from a different angle

There may be another point: when falling, the contacts could somehow interlock. When the sole of the iron heats up, the bending thermal plate presses on the contact groups, but the contacts cannot open. The result is the same - the iron does not turn off when heating. Repairing an iron is also similar - we try to restore mobility to the plates, trying not to bend them. If it doesn’t work, we change it.

Tool

To successfully repair an iron, let's first prepare some homemade tools; It will not take much time and will not require significant expenses:

• 2-4 lid squeezers;
• squeezer for hidden latches;
• a cheap LED flashlight (namely LED) and a magnifying glass;
• a strip of suede, a nail file, alcohol;
• or, instead of step 4 - a pencil eraser, an ink eraser, a piece of a clean cloth, alcohol.

Note: about the purpose of tools according to paragraphs. 4 and 5 see below.

Push-ups

Opening the top cover of the iron with a table knife

The lid squeezer is made from the top, strongest layer of bamboo, the size and thickness of an ice cream stick; one end of it is cut into a wedge. The covers on the body of irons are often placed on latches without fixing. At the service center, such a cover is compressed with special pliers and removed. To remove it using a makeshift method, you need to pry off the cover: the teeth of the latches without fixing are beveled on both sides and come out of the grooves intact. But open the lids on tight latches with a table knife or a wide screwdriver, as in Fig. on the right, don’t: the steel will leave marks on the plastic. The flexural strength of the surface layer of bamboo is higher than that of plastics, and the shear strength is lower. Therefore, a bamboo squeezer will remove the lid if it is properly lifted, but perhaps it will be crushed from the surface on its own without damaging the plastic. If the lid is not lifted correctly and does not give in, the bamboo squeezer will break without damaging the iron. They use bamboo squeezers in pairs, prying the part from both sides.

A good thin squeezer for fixed latches is obtained from a plastic coffee stirrer cut into a wedge, which are issued by coffee machines. The squeezer from the stirrer fits into any gap and gently removes the latches with fixation, without scratching or breaking either them or the body parts.

Flashlight and magnifying glass

Cheap mini LED flashlights produce very hard light with harsh shadows. In this case, this is an advantage: such light penetrates deeply into thin cracks, and under a magnifying glass you can see what the part is holding there. To do this, first they pry off the lid, which is not clear how to remove, with bamboo squeezers, highlight it and look at what is holding it there.

How to handle latches

It is best, of course, to find a diagram for disassembling the iron of this model, but try it! And don’t look for typical layouts of secret locks either: they can be different for the same model from the same manufacturer. Have you read in the instructions: “The manufacturer reserves the right to make changes to the design that do not affect the performance of the product”? That is, when disassembling the iron, you will most likely have to look for hidden connections yourself.

It must be said that Western companies are gradually moving away from the principle: “Do you want to fix it yourself? Well, break it and buy a new one!” But Asians stubbornly cling to it. For example, if your iron is Chinese, then the nose mounting screw (see below) will most likely be not under the filler cap, but... under the water and steam supply buttons!

Hidden latches in the iron buttons

Let's light it up and see. Do you see the green circle in the pic? So, this is not a latch, but a sliding tenon in a groove. The latches are on the other side of the buttons. To remove the buttons and disassemble the iron, you need to:

• Push forward button.
• Insert the wringer from the mixer behind it.
• Release the latch.
• Without removing the wringer, lift the button up until it stops. You should hear a faint click of the latch tooth coming out of the groove.
• While holding the button so as not to fall, remove the wringer.
• Continuing to hold the button, move it forward with an inclination so that the sliding tenon turns out of the groove.
• Do the same with the other button.

Shaped fasteners

The screws in irons from Western manufacturers are most often either ordinary with a Phillips or hexagon head. For the latter, there is no point in buying a special screwdriver with a set of bits for a one-time repair: a screw with a hexagonal slot can simply be unscrewed with a flat screwdriver with a thin blade of a suitable width. It can also be used to unscrew screws with a trefoil slot, which the Chinese are very fond of (on the right in the figure), but without strong pressure: this creates a significant lateral force and the screw in the thread can simply jam. If the screw is tight, it is torn off with a series of small jerks, moving the screwdriver to other pairs of slots.

Shaped screws

The most difficult thing will be to unscrew the screw with the TORXX slot (on the right in the figure): scissors or tweezers will only take it if the screw is loose in the thread. It is most convenient to unscrew TORXX screws without a special key using small duckbill pliers; You can also use side cutters, but then there will be dents on the slot bridge. They won’t do anything to the screw, but if an experienced master suddenly gets his hands on this iron, he’ll charge him for repairs for previous unskilled access.

Checking the fuse

A thermal fuse is installed approximately in the same area where the thermostat is located. It is used in case the soleplate of the iron overheats - it burns out if the iron heats up to dangerous temperatures. Usually this fuse has a protective tube attached to it and most often it is white.

Iron repair: fuse and its continuity

Find contacts, call. In normal condition, the fuse “rings”; if it is blown, there is silence. If you wish, you can move the handset and call directly - there may be a break/burnout in the connecting wire. If a fuse is blown, unsolder it, look for a similar one and install it in place.

There is no need to exclude the thermal fuse from the circuit - it will protect you from a fire in case of problems with the thermostat: it will simply burn out and the iron will not work. And although the iron will require repairs, your home will be safe.

How to find a qualified craftsman?

To find a qualified technician, it is recommended to contact a Philips service center . If the service warranty period has already expired, you can find a specialist through advertisements on the Internet or through the recommendations of friends.

A professional never charges money for diagnostics. Payment is made upon delivery of the service. If the master puts the device away, you need to ask him for a document stating that he received it in his hands.

Specialists who value their reputation always provide a guarantee for the work performed. All documents must be certified with the seal and signature of the master.

Steam spray system

If almost no steam comes out of the iron, but there is water in the container, most likely the holes are clogged with salts. You can restore functionality with a simple technique. Pour water and vinegar (regular, table vinegar without dyes) into a dish with low sides (a frying pan or baking sheet will do). One glass of vinegar per liter of water. The second recipe is to add 2 teaspoons of citric acid to 250 ml of boiling water. Place the switched-off iron into the bowl with the prepared liquid. The liquid should cover the sole.

Cleaning the steam vents on your iron

Place the container with the iron on the fire, bring to a boil, and turn off. Wait until it cools down. Reheat. You can repeat this 3-4 times. Until the salts dissolve.

Where to begin?

First, you must visually inspect the case for cracks, defects and traces of melting of the case. Perhaps the appearance will immediately show what exactly is causing the iron to break down. If the inspection does not yield anything, you need to completely disassemble the case to independently diagnose all the components.

Please note that disassembling the iron is sometimes quite difficult. This is due to the fact that every year manufacturers spend more time on the design of electrical appliances, creating invisible fasteners and holes for screws. Initially, prepare a set of screwdrivers and a knife that will be useful to you for further actions.

Power cord

One of the main malfunctions of the iron is the power cord, which you actually plug into the outlet.

Get to the junction of the contacts with the heating element and if there are no visible faults, use a tester to ring the cord to determine its functionality.

For dialing, you can use a homemade tester, consisting of a piece of wire, a battery and a light bulb. If the light comes on when the contacts are connected to both ends of the cord, move on.

If the power cord is the cause of the breakdown, you can try to shorten it by 10-15 cm (perhaps the problem area will be removed). Is your iron still not working? Replace the cord with a new one!

Temperature regulator

Second in line is the thermostat. We also check it using a continuity tester, which we attach to the contact group.

When the temperature control is turned toward the circuit closing direction, the electrical circuit should function. Is the light not on? We clean the contacts with sandpaper and check again. We immediately recommend watching the video repair instructions:

The thermostat is working, but the iron does not heat up? Let's start checking the thermal fuse!

Do-it-yourself troubleshooting

Hair straightener failure may result in partial or complete loss of heat or mechanical failure. Before disassembling the iron, you should carefully inspect it for integrity.

Disassembly begins with separating the halves of the iron. To do this, remove the decorative plugs on the sides of the device and unscrew the tightening screw.

When the halves are separated, access will be made to the remaining screws securing the covers that cover the shadows and controls. Having gained access to the temperature regulator, you can begin to inspect and test the parts.

Thermal fuse

More often than the power cord, this element of the circuit fails. Its main purpose is to disconnect the electrical circuit if the temperature of the heating element exceeds the nominal value.

Using a continuity test, we determine the functionality of the fuse. If the reason for the breakdown of the iron is in it, we replace it with a new one, or remove it from the diagram altogether. During normal operation of the temperature controller, there is no need for a fuse.

Heating element (heating element)

Well, the last reason why the iron does not work is the failure of the heating element. If the equipment turns on, the light is on, but the sole does not heat up to the required temperature, most likely this is the problem. As in previous cases, we use a homemade tester to determine the performance of the product. The heating element is attached to the sole and if the attachment point is permanent, then most likely you will have to say goodbye to the purchase (if that is the reason).

If the heating element is connected to the soleplate using tips, you can try to repair the iron yourself by cleaning the contacts with sandpaper. Still not heating up? We send the equipment for recycling, because... a new part costs almost the full cost of the device!

Please note that if you throw the equipment in the trash, it would be better to disconnect the power cord and keep it for yourself. Perhaps this element will be useful to you in subsequent repairs, especially since it will not take up much space in the closet!

Examples of self-repair of irons

Recently I had to repair two faulty irons from the Braun and Philips brands. I will describe the problems that had to be fixed.

Braun electric iron repair

The iron did not heat up, the indicator did not shine in any position of the thermostat adjustment knob. When bending the power cord, there were no signs of the iron working.

After removing the back cover, it was discovered that the supply voltage was supplied through the terminal block. Access to the plug-in terminals was difficult. The wire markings corresponded to the generally accepted color markings. The iron had already been repaired previously, as evidenced by the broken left latch on the terminal block.

The appearance of the removed terminal block is shown in the photograph. It also has a neon light indicating the supply of supply voltage to the heating element.

The input contact busbars for supplying supply voltage were in some places covered with an oxide film of rust. This could not cause the iron to break down, which was confirmed by connecting it after removing traces of rust from the contacts using sandpaper.

After completely disassembling the iron, the thermal fuse and thermostat contacts were tested using a multimeter. The thermal fuse shows a resistance of zero ohms, and the thermostat contacts show infinity.

Inspection showed that the contacts were tightly adjacent to each other, and it became obvious that the reason for the failure lay in the oxidation of their surfaces. After cleaning the contacts with sandpaper, contact was restored. The iron began to heat up normally.

Philips electric iron repair

I received a Philips iron for repair after the owner cleaned the steam generation system. The thermostat did not work, and the iron heated up to the temperature at which the thermal fuse opened.

After completely disassembling the iron, it was discovered that the ceramic pusher, which should be located between the bimetallic plate and the thermostat switch, was missing. As a result, the bimetallic plate bent, but its movement was not transmitted to the switch, so the contacts were constantly closed.

There was no old iron from which the pusher could be removed, there was no opportunity to buy a new one, and I had to think about what to make it from. But before making the pusher with your own hands, you needed to determine its length. The bimetallic plate and the switch had coaxial holes with a diameter of 2 mm, in which the standard pusher was previously fixed. To determine the length of the pusher, take an M2 screw and two nuts. To secure the screw instead of the pusher, I had to lift the thermostat by unscrewing one screw.

Attention! The bimetallic plate is in contact with the soleplate of the iron and has good electrical contact with it. The switch plate is connected to the electrical network. The screw is metal and is a good conductor of electric current. Therefore, touching the soleplate of the iron when making the described adjustment must be done only with the iron plug removed from the socket!

The screw was inserted into the hole of the bimetallic plate from below, as in the photo, and secured with a nut. Thanks to the ability to rotate the second nut clockwise or counterclockwise, it became possible to adjust the height of the pusher simulator in order to configure the thermostat to maintain the temperature set by the temperature control knob.

The length of the pusher at which the heating temperature of the iron corresponds to the one set by the position of the adjustment knob can be selected by doing test ironing. But for this you will have to assemble and disassemble the iron every time. It is much easier to use an electronic thermometer. Many multimeters have the function of measuring temperature using a remote thermocouple.

To measure the temperature of the soleplate, you need to put the handle on the thermostat and set it to the position with the mark one, two or three circles opposite the pointer on the iron body. Next, attach the thermocouple to the soleplate of the iron, fix the soleplate in a vertical position and turn on the iron. When the temperature of the sole stops changing, take readings.

As a result of the experiment, it was determined that a pusher with a length of about 8 mm was required. Since the iron inside the body can heat up to a temperature of 240°C, the pusher had to be made of heat-resistant material. A resistor caught my eye and I remembered that in it a resistive layer is applied to a ceramic tube. The 0.25 W resistor is just the right size, and its shortened copper leads, threaded through the holes, will serve well as clamps.

The resistor will fit any value. Before installing it in the iron, the resistor was heated to red on a gas water heater burner and the burnt layer of paint and resistor coating were removed using sandpaper. Everything was removed down to the ceramics. If you use a resistor with a value of more than 1 MOhm, which you need to be 100% sure of, then you don’t have to remove the paint and the resistive layer.

After preparation, the resistor was installed instead of the spacer ceramic element and the ends of the taps were slightly bent to the sides. The iron was assembled and the operation of the thermostat was rechecked, which confirmed that the temperature was maintained by the thermostat within the limits of the data given in the table.

Steaming system

If the malfunction is that the iron’s steamer does not work, then most likely it is necessary to clean the internal steam cavities. To do this, we recommend that you use a solution of water and vinegar in a ratio of 1 liter to 1 glass. Place the sole in a container (as shown in the picture), bring the water to a boil on the stove, turn it off and wait until it cools down. After this, we repeat the action 3 more times, which is enough to properly clean the spray bottle.

In stores you can see special products for cleaning scale, but we strongly do not recommend using them. This is due to the high cost of the funds and at the same time low efficiency compared to the traditional method! It should also be noted that on thematic forums there are many negative reviews about the fact that the iron does not work after cleaning with salt. This is due to the fact that salt crystals clog the steam supply holes, as a result of which you have to thoroughly clean the sole.

Another reason why the sprinkler does not work is that the steam button is broken. It can also be tested with a tester and replaced if necessary.

That's all the instructions for repairing an iron with your own hands. As you can see, the event is quite simple and even a novice electrician can do it! Finally, I would like to note that if the red indicator on the case is blinking, do not panic, because this may indicate a certain operating mode or automatic shutdown after heating. Read the instructions that come with the kit to understand the reason for the blinking. We hope that now you understand what to do if the soleplate of the iron does not heat up and how to repair the breakdown at home!

Related materials:

Malfunctions and repairs

Problems in operation indicating a breakdown:

1. the steam jet is too weak or absent altogether;
2. the water does not heat up or the temperature is insufficient;
3. steam escapes through openings not intended for its exit;
4. water splashes along with the steam.

Knowledge of the device is necessary to identify the cause of the device failure. It has several vulnerabilities.

Pump malfunctions

Pump malfunction is a common reason for insufficient jet power. In this case, you need to completely disassemble the case, which can cause difficulties, since in some models (for example, Philips) it is secured with screws with a unique head pattern. A flat-head screwdriver of suitable size will help, but during the service, attempts to penetrate inside the device will be noticeable.

Disassembling and reassembling the pump requires care and patience. First, using a multimeter, you should check the voltage at the internal terminals that supply voltage to the motor, and the integrity of its winding

If the resistance goes off scale and the circuit is open, then we can safely say that the winding has burned out. In this case, you should select a wire of the required cross-section and rewind the motor, or order a new pump from a service center.

A heating element

If there is no steam supply at all or the water does not heat up, then the problem lies in the heating element. This is the most vulnerable part as it is prone to burnout. Or the thermostat fails, opening the circuit when the maximum temperature is reached. This happens due to:

• improper operation;
• power surges in the network;
• low quality of the device itself;
• use of untreated water.

Repairing a burnt-out heating element at home is extremely undesirable, as it can lead to a short circuit and fire. There is nothing left to do but contact the service. All that can be done is to check whether it really burned out. In this case, the tester will show a network break. In normal condition, it registers a resistance of 20-60 ohms.

Steamer electronics malfunction

Electronics failure is another reason why a clothes steamer does not work or does not work properly. Due to insufficient sealing, steam and scale may accumulate on circuit elements, displays and buttons. Since the electrical circuit controls the operating processes of the garment steamer, it will have a negative impact on the operation. Repair comes down to checking the functionality and replacing broken electronic components.

Mechanical damage

Among others, there are mechanical faults such as:

• violation of the tightness of liquid tanks;
• damage to steam hoses;
• wear of gaskets and auxiliary parts;
• breakdown of racks and holders.

In a situation where instead of a stable steam jet in the steamer there is steam with water, mechanical damage to the liquid tank occurs. Cracks in the container lead to leaks, and in addition to the fact that streams of liquid are captured along with the steam, a puddle also flows under the device.

If it does not produce steam, then in addition to malfunctions of the pump, one can suspect that the outlet holes in the boiler or on the atomizer are clogged with scale. For cleaning, a special liquid is used, which is used to wash the heating element and the tank with tubes. The housing is first de-energized and disassembled.

A drop in steam jet power is a consequence of microcracks in the hose, which expand over time, leading to a loss of efficiency. Only complete replacement of the part will help to fix it, since sealing with improvised means will give a temporary effect due to increased steam pressure.

In conclusion, it is important to note in which cases it is worth repairing yourself. Nowadays, almost all complex equipment has a warranty card, according to which a broken device must be repaired at a service center

If for some reason this is not possible (the warranty period has expired, the coupon or receipt is lost, or the warranty was not issued at all), only in this case can you try to fix it yourself.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=nxiFZAyzmBo