Connecting a storage water heater with your own hands: diagrams, stages of work

A water heater is one of the most popular options for large household appliances, second only to refrigerators, stoves and washing machines in terms of demand. This is not surprising, because our state does not pamper us with acceptable tariffs for the supply of hot water, and periodically “pleases” us with its total absence and the impossibility of supplying it to private houses, not to mention housing in rural areas.

However, for normal operation of the water heater, it is not enough to choose a suitable model; it is necessary to ensure that the boiler is properly connected to the water supply.

Types of water heaters and features of their connection

All types of devices used in residential and public buildings for heating water (not for heating!) can be divided into groups according to:

method of operation - storage (most models) and flow;
type of energy used - electric, gas, wood, combined;
volume of heated water. For storage devices, this parameter is determined by the volume of the internal container, into which the liquid is collected and subsequently heated. For flow-through systems - the amount of water passed through the heater per minute with heating to the desired temperature;
mounting method - wall-mounted (strictly vertical, with a choice of horizontal or vertical placement), floor-mounted, built-in.

Gas, wood and combined water heaters are usually part of an individual heating system and have their own connection and installation nuances, so in this article we will only consider electrical devices.

If hot water is constantly needed in the household and you need a lot of it, a storage tank would be the best choice. Flow-through models are suitable for limited flow and local water intake points. The table below will help you determine the approximate need for hot water.

Naturally, the required amount of water must be provided by the throughput of the water supply system. Therefore, for housing where water is supplied manually (from a well, a water heater), there is usually no talk about an electric water heater. As a last resort, this device is supplied with water from a separate storage tank and is turned on only as needed.

If the choice is nevertheless made in favor of an instantaneous water heater, you must immediately determine the possibility of connecting the device to the house electrical network - some models require too much electricity, the wiring simply cannot withstand the current.

The vertical or horizontal position of the tank has little effect on the way the water heater is installed in the apartment; here you only need to take into account the actual ability of the product to work in the chosen position and correctly place all the elements of the supply and discharge water supply.

Choosing a boiler - how many liters will be needed

We decided to touch on this topic, since the normal supply of hot water to the house (abbreviated as DHW) depends on the volume of the water heater. Buying a tank with a large supply of water is also pointless:

the heating time to a comfortable temperature increases;
the price of equipment increases;
The installation of a storage water heater becomes more complicated due to the large weight of the device + a decent volume of water.

Advice. If you only need a heater for washing dishes, it is better to buy a low-power electric flow-through model, which is placed under the kitchen sink or instead of a faucet. How to choose the right electric water heater for your dacha, read in a separate publication.

The capacity of the storage tank is selected according to the consumption of mixed (warm) water per 1 resident per day - 20 liters for hygienic needs, another 12 liters for household needs. How many liters of boiler is needed in total:

for economical consumption, a family of 2 people needs 50 liters, for comfortable consumption – 80 liters;
3 people – 80...100 l;
4 family members – 100…120 liters;
5 or more residents who actively use hot water - 120...150 l.

Necessary parts, materials and tools

For self-installation you will need:

pipes - metal or PVC (the second option is preferable due to its greater simplicity and ease of operation). The length of the pipe sections depends on the location of the tank and the configuration of the bathroom (technical room), as well as the distance of the water intake points from the device. The type of pipe and its characteristics depend on the volume of water supplied (throughput) and the pressure in the system;
sanitary fittings. You will definitely need ball valves - at least two of them, a safety valve (often included in the delivery package of the boiler), tees and adapters (depending on the configuration of the water supply system). If there is a risk of increasing pressure in the water supply system, it is recommended to supplement the connection diagram with a reducer. If there is a pressure gauge on the gearbox, it becomes possible to visually monitor the pressure level in the water supply;
three-core electrical cable, cross-section is determined in accordance with the rated power consumption;
automatic device for connecting the device to the in-house electrical network. The machine is selected depending on the current required by the device, with a margin of at least 10...15%;
An optional, but desirable and very useful addition to the electrical circuit will be an RCD (residual current device). These devices monitor the network voltage and turn off electrical equipment when the monitored parameter increases/decrease outside a specified range

An example of connecting a heating storage tank - the machine for it is highlighted in red, the RCD is located on the left. To prevent electrical equipment from constantly switching off, the RCD is set to an acceptable voltage range of 215…230 V

You may also have to think about gaskets, tow or plumbing tape (fum tape).

To quickly complete installation, you will need:

a hammer drill or impact drill with a concrete/brick drill (depending on the type of wall). If the strength of the walls does not allow a large load from attachments, you will have to make one or buy a ready-made installation for the tank. Accordingly, when choosing a metal supporting structure, you will need a metal drill to make holes for fastening;
a hacksaw, a grinder with a suitable disc for cutting metal pipes or special scissors for PVC pipes;
a screwdriver, pliers and side cutters, a knife or a special device for stripping wires - a standard electrician’s kit;
multimeter to identify zero and phase on the meter. Here you can read more about how to use a multimeter.

How to “crash” into a cold water supply pipe?

One of the main tasks is to cut a tee into a cold pipe. There are different options for solving this issue - it all depends on the material of the pipe itself and its location.

Metal pipe

The most labor-intensive case is perhaps one that will require special skills and tools. We will not consider the issue of welding work - this approach is practically not used in apartment conditions.

Option one is when it is possible to cut the pipe and cut the required ½-inch thread at both ends. In this case, it will be possible to install the tee through a regular plumbing fitting, or pack it using special couplings with union nuts - “American ones”.
The second option is when the location of the pipe excludes the possibility of using a thread cutting tool (die with a holder).
In this case, you will have to use a special repair and installation clip with a tap, which is often called a “vampire” among plumbers. This is a cast iron or brass collapsible structure with a rubber gasket inside and a tee perpendicular outlet and a transition to internal or external thread. This is what the Vampire repair and installation clip looks like

And this is the installation diagram

The pipe is thoroughly cleaned of old paint and rust. Then, in the right place on the pipe with previously blocked water, a radial hole is drilled with a diameter corresponding to the hole on the coupling. A hole that is too large will negatively affect the strength characteristics of the pipe. Too small and it will quickly become overgrown with dirt. When marking the center of the hole, be sure to take into account the further direction of laying the line to the boiler.

The coupling is put on through a rubber gasket and tightly tightened with standard bolts. Now from its threaded part you can continue laying any type of pipe.

Metal-plastic pipe

Tee for metal plastic

The simplest option is perhaps the one that requires only wrenches and a cutter. In the right place, the pipe is cut taking into account the length of the tee. Then the tee itself is installed on the standard compression fittings, with an outlet on an external or internal thread, or with the same fitting outlet if it is planned to continue to conduct metal plastic.

Polypropylene pipe

This requires a special approach. To weld a tee using a special soldering iron, a certain “spreading” of pipe sections is required for simultaneous coaxial heating. You can, of course, go the route of installing a “vampire”, but it’s still not worth the risk. It is better to cut out a section of the pipeline, and then solder the removable structure with a tee and transitions to “American” couplings. It may be a little more expensive, but the reliability of the insert will be guaranteed.

The same is done when inserting a pipe with hot water, if it is planned to connect it to the internal residential hot water supply network.

Step-by-step instructions for connecting a storage water heater

Installation is divided into several stages:

fastening to the place of use - wall, installation;
cold water connection;
removal of hot water to water collection points;
electricity connection;
testing and commissioning.

Let's look at them in order.

Wall mount

The weight of the boiler is usually quite large; approximate figures can be seen in the table below.

Important: the weight indicated is for an EMPTY device! The total weight of the connected and operating tank exceeds the nominal parameter by the weight of the collected water (1 liter weighs 1 kg).

That is, for a heating tank with a volume of 150 liters, the weight of the product together with water will be about 190 kg. This weight is distributed over two, or at best (rarely) four attachment points. Accordingly, one hook/anchor/bolt accounts for up to 95 kg of weight.

Accordingly, the fastening must be very reliable. On a capital wall (reinforced concrete, solid brick), it is permissible to use ordinary anchor bolts. On a wall made of foam or aerated concrete or hollow brick, it is better to use special fasteners. The same applies to mounting heavy tanks on old main walls.

Anchor bolt with hook is convenient for both mounting strips with holes and regular strips without holes

Anchor bolt installation diagram

If the wall thickness is not enough for normal fastening of the anchor bolt, it is necessary to perform through fastening, but it is better to use special installations, examples of which are shown below.

Options with additional fixation to the ceiling - a reinforced concrete floor slab provides additional guarantees

If the boiler is located in a separate technical room, you can use a floor installation.

It should also be taken into account that different models may vary greatly in both the shape of the mounting strips and their location. This is especially important for models with the possibility of vertical and horizontal placement.

Connecting the boiler to the water supply

Below is a diagram of connecting the water heater to the water supply. It is typical for houses and apartments that have (at least theoretically) a centralized supply of hot water.

Manufacturers usually provide a connection diagram in the product instructions. It needs to be studied, since some nuances may not coincide with the generally accepted version.

The following points should be taken into account:

Usually the pressure in the (domestic) water supply is about 6 atmospheres. On the first floors of multi-storey buildings, the pressure in the pipes can exceed this value, so the circuits contain an element such as a pressure reducer (optional). This reducer reduces the average constant pressure to normal and allows you to “stop” short-term changes. The photo below shows piston (left) and diaphragm (right) gearboxes. Both can be connected to a pressure gauge with an axial connection;
if the water in the system is of poor quality, it is very advisable to install a coarse filter BEFORE the outlet to the tank (or better yet, at the entrance to the apartment/house), and an additional filter “at the approaches” to the boiler. This will significantly increase the service life of the device, especially with a “wet heating element”;
the use of flexible hoses for connection is undesirable, especially for discharging heated water, since under the influence of consistently high temperature and pressure they quickly fail. It is permissible to use flexible hoses only if they are of guaranteed high quality;
Please note: in the photo, the copper pipe is cut and sealed, but there is practically no water pressure in this area, since two outlets for water intake points are installed on the way to it. If it is necessary to cut a centralized water supply pipe and there is no way to relieve pressure in the adjacent area, it is better to use threaded plugs
Read also: Electric current in a vacuum - causes of appearance, properties and application

How to connect a boiler to electricity

The connection can be made in different ways, but most often this is the boiler connection diagram.

Using a three-wire wire (calculation of cross-section based on power), the output is carried out from the meter through the RCD and the machine either directly to the tank or to the outlet. The socket is also selected according to power and permissible current.

This diagram shows the most commonly used wire colors for the water heater itself - yellow-green, cyan (blue) and red (brown).

The photo shows that the colors of the tank wires match the colors of the cable wires. Connection via terminals simplifies installation and eliminates the need for twisting

This shows how the cable is connected directly to the connectors on the bottom panel of the tank.

For residents of multi-storey buildings, the issue of difficulty in grounding the device is relevant. If there is no “ground” and it is not possible to establish a full-fledged deep grounding (which is quite possible in a private house), it is sometimes recommended to connect the “ground” of the tank to the “zero” of the meter.

If it is not possible to extend a power outlet, we recommend considering French Atlantic water heaters. These are the quietest, most reliable, least serviced and most economical water heaters. Of all the boilers that are offered for sale on the Russian market.

If conventional water heaters need to be serviced annually, Atlantic's service is performed TWICE less frequently. And it costs three times less than servicing a typical inexpensive Chinese water heater.

Atlantic boilers can be plugged into a regular outlet. Compared to other water heaters, they consume 15-20% less energy due to the increased area of the heating element. By the way, Atlantic has a proprietary development of the company - a dry steatite heating element. The service life of such a heating element is up to 20 years. This is ten times longer than the “wet” heating elements that are installed in most inexpensive water heaters of other brands.

Atlantic's tanks are coated with a special enamel with titanium dioxide, and therefore they are practically non-corrosive. And due to the magnesium anode, scale practically does not form inside. Therefore, Atlantic operate very quietly and economically on all types of water.

Atlantic factories are located all over the world, except China (this is probably why Atlantic is also called the most UN-Chinese water heaters).

Atlantic water heaters have the longest warranty on the market - 8 years. Almost all Chinese boilers are no more than 5 years old.

Important: grounding to pipes, reinforcement of monolithic structures, metal parts in the walls and floor of a home is unacceptable!

Grounding for an apartment (house)

Grounding for a private house, the site must be located at a distance of at least 1.5 m from a residential building

Briefly about the principle of operation of the drive

To properly install and connect the water heater to utility networks, you need to know the structure and operating principle of the device. The design and operation scheme looks like this:

The main container - stainless or enameled steel - is filled with cold water through a pipe that goes into the lower zone of the tank.
When filling, the air is completely forced into the DHW system through the hot water intake pipe located in the upper zone of the tank.
After turning on the boiler, the water is heated by a tubular electric heater (abbreviated as TEN), built into the bottom of the tank.
An automation unit is installed on the same platform with the heating element - an immersion temperature sensor and a thermostat. When the temperature of the container reaches a predetermined threshold, the automation de-energizes the heating element. After the water has cooled by 3-5 °C, the thermostat turns on the heating again.

Sectional diagram of an electric heating tank
A boiler safety group is installed at the water supply inlet. The part consists of a safety and check valve whose function is to relieve excess pressure from the expansion of the heated liquid and prevent water from leaving the tank back into the pipe.
Next to the heating element there is a magnesium anode, which protects the metal of the tank from electrochemical corrosion. The outside of the container is insulated with a layer of polyurethane, then covered with a decorative casing, as shown in the sectional diagram.

Reference. The power of the heating element is 1.5...3 kW depending on the volume of the tank. Some flat models of storage boilers are equipped with two electric heaters.

The design of vertical and horizontal type boilers is identical - the intake pipe is at the top, the supply pipe is at the bottom. This raises the main problem of servicing any storage water heater - it is impossible to drain the water through the tap. The issue is solved in different ways depending on the strapping scheme, which we will consider later.

Step by step instructions

So, having examined the stages in detail, let us once again clarify how to connect a storage water heater:

The boiler must be unpacked and checked for external damage (dents, obvious lack of tight connections, uncut threads, other defects). An uncut thread can be corrected yourself; other defects may indicate a malfunction of the device;
secure the tank to the wall using a mounting plate with two bolts/hooks. It is better to replace the fasteners included in the package with more reliable and high-quality ones. This also applies to the safety valve;
connect pipes/hoses to the inlet and outlet pipes of the heating tank according to the diagram. Don't forget about sealing materials! Additionally, you can perform thermal insulation of pipes/hoses, this will reduce heat loss and reduce energy costs;
connect the water heater to electricity, as suggested in the manufacturer’s diagram or according to any of the diagrams presented above.

Additionally, we recommend watching this video - it shows interesting nuances of mounting the boiler on the wall and attaching fittings to the pipes.

After this, there remains one, but very important stage of installation - verification.

Necessary:

shut off the supply of hot water (centralized) to the intra-house (in-apartment) system;
open the valve (ball valve) to supply cold water to the tank;
open full flow of HOT water at the nearest mixer(s);
wait until water comes out of the tap in a continuous stream. In the first minutes, alternating water and air from the pipes is possible;
connect the device to the power supply and wait the required time for the first heating (according to the manufacturer’s recommendations);
check the temperature of the water supplied by the tank and, if necessary, adjust the heating regulator (if this function is provided in the model).

Usually there is a warning light next to the heating regulator - it indicates possible problems in the system

For greater convenience, a number of manufacturers place the regulator on the front panel of the water heater

The main mistakes made when installing a boiler

If the homeowner decides to independently connect the storage water heater, under no circumstances should the following things be done:

replace the components supplied with the device;
connect the device to the AC power supply if there is no water in the tank;
disassemble the device when connecting a water heating device to the electrical network;
turn on or use an ungrounded device;
operate equipment with inappropriate water pressure parameters in the central water supply;
Completely drain the water from the tank while the storage boiler is operating.

And most importantly, under no circumstances should safety precautions be neglected when connecting a boiler - a fairly powerful electrical appliance. If you have any doubts about the correctness of carrying out installation work yourself, it is advisable to seek help from professionals.

To understand what water heaters are, how to connect such devices and what are the benefits of using them, you do not need to be a professional electrician or builder. All installation work can be performed by every person who is at least slightly familiar with the structure of the water supply system and can understand the simplest electrical circuits. The main thing is attentiveness, following all safety rules and, of course, desire, without which it is better not to take on such work on your own.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=HA9JlpwQXTI

The nuances of connecting an instantaneous water heater

Connecting an instantaneous water heater to the water supply system of a house/apartment is even easier than a storage one. It is enough to follow the general principles of working with equipment of this kind (and the recommendations given above), as well as the connection diagrams proposed by the manufacturer.

All the main elements of the circuit are repeated; a drain valve, adapters from the heater pipes to the water supply pipes, and a connection to the electrical network are also required here.

Experts recommend:

install the device in close proximity to the water intake point - sink, shower, kitchen sink. In this case, it is necessary to take into account humidity zones and use moisture-proof sockets, and also be careful about the waterproofing of electrical elements;
if the cold water connection pipes are made of metal, they must be connected to the inlet pipe of the heater through a dielectric bushing (included in the delivery set);
since the power of the device can range from 1 to 27 kW, devices with a consumption of more than 8 kW must be connected to a 280 V network with a cable of four or five cores;
Before turning on for the first time, you should “blow out” the system to ensure that the main tank of the heater is filled and there are no air pockets in the pipes/hoses.

It is important to understand: an instantaneous water heater provides hot water constantly (if there is a power supply), but does not provide a large flow of liquid!

We recommend watching a video about connecting a conventional flow-through heater and the so-called “instant water heating tap.”

Preparation

If you have not previously installed a boiler, then first of all decide on its future location, then select tools and materials.

Selecting a location

When searching, follow these guidelines:

The wall must be strong, preferably load-bearing, in order to support the large weight of the tank (add the weight of the water to the weight of the device).
Free access to communications and to the device is important, since the water heater will have to be serviced in the future.
Do not connect the boiler to bad wiring. Typically, the power of models is from 3 kW.
Do not connect the tank to rotten or rusty pipes.
Choose a place closer to the pipeline so that you don’t have to cut into the system from the next room.
An acceptable choice for installation is a bathroom or kitchen, less often a toilet or hallway.

It's actually not that complicated. Regular high-quality wiring will easily withstand an average power electric heater. There are no installation requirements or restrictions for this device.

We still recommend running a separate line from the meter to the tank to relieve the burden on the main wiring.

Tools

Tools and materials needed to install the boiler.

If you do everything from scratch, you will have to work hard. First, cut into the pipeline with cold water, make the wiring for hot water, and only then start connecting the indirect heating boiler. You will also need special tools and materials:

metal-plastic pipes;
tow;
paste;
sealing tape;
flexible hoses for connecting the boiler and water supply;
tees;
Ball Valves;
check valve;
hammer drill (a drill is recommended only for lovers of masochism, since you will have to drill fairly deep holes in a strong concrete wall);
roulette;
level;
screwdriver;
gas or adjustable wrench;
a set of regular keys.

Main producers

Horizontal water heaters are devices that are in great demand. And this is not surprising, since many are faced with a situation where, at the most inopportune moment, hot water disappears from the tap. It is in order to satisfy high demand that companies involved in the production of household appliances produce such devices. These days there are many manufacturers who can offer various models of boilers. However, among their large number there are several reputable companies - market leaders. These include Ariston, Electrolux and Thermex.

Ariston is a well-known Italian company that has long established itself as a manufacturer of high-quality and reliable equipment with great functionality and attractive design. It produces a wide range of household appliances. In particular, Ariston offers various models of boilers with tank capacities from 10 to 150 liters. Either one is a great choice for home use. Manufacturer's devices can have one of two types of control: mechanical or electronic. Most devices have a power of 2-3 kW.

Ariston water heaters have increased price and quality

Electrolux - this manufacturer is known to many consumers primarily for refrigerators and washing machines. Its product line also includes boilers. The company produces many models of horizontal water heaters. The tank volume of the devices varies from 10 to 125 liters. All products are distinguished by high quality manufacturing, while the price of the devices is optimal.

Thermex is a fairly well-known manufacturer from Italy. One of his areas of activity is the production of steel water heaters. Boiler tanks are covered with enamel or glass porcelain. The consumer can easily find a suitable device among the Thermex product range. The devices produced by this company have an attractive appearance and have good functionality. Their advantage is the presence of additional protection, as well as the ability to choose from several types of control.

How to connect a boiler, boiler connection diagram taking into account the limitation of allocated power

Any wiring is designed and installed for specific loads. They are appointed by the electricity supply organization. In a modern apartment, the owner of the living space operates a large number of electrical appliances. They can easily exceed the power limit that is allocated to them. Operating home wiring in this way is dangerous: it can overheat and create a fire.

To prevent this, it is necessary to turn off powerful consumers when creating critical loads. Considering that the heating element of the boiler is turned on periodically to heat water, the temperature of which does not decrease quickly, its heating is usually suspended, ensuring the operation of other appliances, for example, a refrigerator, washing machine or dishwasher.

For this purpose, an electronic device is used that has the following functions:

measuring current network power consumption
comparing its value with the value of the set setting to identify the moment of critical overload
disconnecting selected consumers according to a pre-prepared algorithm
automatic resumption of power supply to decommissioned devices when conditions for their normal operation are restored

As such a device, you can use the factory power limiter OM-110.

Application of check valve

This mechanism belongs to the safe operation system.
Its use on a pressure device is necessary. When heated, the water in the boiler noticeably increases its volume, resulting in an increase in pressure in the vessel. The extreme manifestation of this process is its rupture. As a result, the room is filled with steam and hot water, which can cause significant harm to people.

When critical values are reached, the valve installed on the boiler opens the spring damper to discharge water, which is discharged through the fitting. To dispose of it, a hose is installed on the fitting and connected to the nearest discharge into the sewerage water supply. It must be securely fastened, since the discharge can be carried out with great pressure. After releasing excess water, the spring valve closes.

The valve also has a lever for releasing water, which can be used manually.

Indirect heating boiler - what kind of unit?

This phrase means a tank filled with water, which is equipped inside with a heat exchanger coil connected to a boiler responsible for heating the house, or to another system within which some coolant circulates. The water in such a unit becomes hot due to the fact that the liquid supplied directly from the boiler to the heat exchange coil gives up its energy to the liquid located in the boiler tank itself. That is, it does not heat up directly, but only absorbs heat from another source. This is where the name for this unit came from – an indirect heating boiler.

Water heated in the unit can be used for a variety of household needs. Moreover, it remains in a heated state for a long time, since the system itself maintains the desired temperature level. By the way, you can install such a boiler not only in a cottage, but also in an apartment, hotel or other premises.

The boiler itself is a metal or plastic container, parallelepiped or cylindrical. The capacity of the tank can be anything and sometimes amounts to thousands of liters.

The water container is usually enclosed in another housing, and thermal insulation material is often laid between these two structural elements. It helps retain heat longer and also protects the outer casing of the tank from extreme heat. The water, which is directly responsible for heating the liquid in the boiler tank, usually circulates through a heat exchanger coil. The tank elements are protected from corrosion by the presence of a magnesium anode. To control the pressure in the unit, a so-called safety valve and thermostat are installed. Water circulation occurs thanks to the presence of a special pump system.

So BKN is a kind of “thermos” for water in the house. It does not heat the water itself, but is able to keep the liquid heated by the coolant in a warm state.