Knocks out plugs when you turn on the electric stove. Causes?

If the plugs come out when you turn on the electric stove, this may indicate various problems (incorrect connection of equipment, incompatible parameters, malfunction of the stove itself, etc.). A service center specialist will be able to accurately identify the causes of the problem and quickly eliminate them.

Engineers from the A-Iceberg repair center repair electric stoves and built-in hobs of all types. Diagnostics and repairs are carried out at the client’s home, without transporting equipment to a special room. To call a technician, call 8(495) 213-33-33

(daily, from 7:00 to 23:00). You can also fill out an online application on the website.

Common reasons why a machine knocks out

In theory, a circuit breaker (CB) is a device designed to protect a certain section of the network from high currents and, as a result, damage to wiring and electrical equipment. Below we will consider the reasons why the machine may knock out.

Overload

As a rule, the machine turns off after some time due to an overload in the electrical network.

Each circuit breaker is designed for a specific operating current, for example, 6, 10, 16 or 25 A. This is the maximum load at which the circuit breaker normally performs its task.

As soon as the current in the network increases, the thermal element also senses it. At a certain moment it works, and the machine turns off. The higher the load current, the faster the circuit breaker turns off.

Let's look at an example in practice. An AB C 16, designed for 16 A, is installed at the entrance to the apartment. The voltage in the household network is 220 V, so the maximum power for connection is 2.52 kW. This load is consumed by a boiler and an electric kettle.

If a person also turns on the washing machine, the current will increase to 18-20 A. After a few seconds, the thermal element will work and the machine will turn off the power to the network.

The problem can be solved in one of the following ways:

1. Alternately switching on powerful electrical appliances. For example, first you washed, then ironed, etc. It is not advisable for several powerful current consumers to work in the apartment at the same time.
2. Replacing the wiring with a more powerful one or installing another circuit breaker. If a copper wire of 2.5 square meters is laid in the apartment, it will be enough for 16 A (aluminum conductors) and 20 A (copper conductors). This means that the maximum current of the machine that can be installed is 16 Amperes. If you need to install AB C 50 or higher, you will have to change the wiring, because the old wires will not withstand the load.

Please note that when you disconnect the machine from the thermal element, you will not be able to turn it on immediately. You will have to wait a few minutes until the bimetallic strip returns to its previous position.

Equipment breakdown

If the machine knocks when you turn on certain household appliances, for example, a washing machine or boiler, the cause may be a malfunction of this equipment.

To confirm or, conversely, refute fears, you need to turn off the “suspicious” equipment and turn on the machine again. If it stops beating, the reason has been found.

To identify broken equipment, you can connect electrical receivers one by one until the machine goes off. Once the problematic equipment is found, it must be sent in for repair.

Short circuit in wires

Another reason why the machine knocks out is damage to the wiring and, as a result, a short circuit. In a household network, a short circuit occurs when the phase and neutral wires touch.

As a result, the current flowing in the circuit increases tens of times (depending on the power of the power source). Sometimes this shutdown occurs with sparks.

To identify the cause of damage, it is necessary to disassemble switches and sockets and inspect them for destruction and damage. Dangling wires must be secured. Damaged sections of the wiring must be insulated, because they can lead to the appearance of a short circuit in the system.

After examining the boxes, move on to the lighting fixtures. Here, also check the reliability of the connections and make sure there is no damage to the wiring.

At the last stage, the integrity of the wires embedded in the wall is checked. To do this, a special device is used to find the break point. Unfortunately, there are no devices for finding the location of a short circuit in a wall with 220 V wires.

But you can use the following advice:

1. Unplug all consumers from the sockets and turn off the packager;
2. Take a multimeter, set the ringing mode (up to 200 Ohms) and ring all the sockets;
3. Make a diagram of which sockets have a short circuit. This way you can identify the section of wiring in the wall where there is a short circuit.

But modern circuit breakers can turn off for other reasons:

1. For example, in the packet phase there is poor contact and even when the refrigerator is turned on, it turns off. The reason is that sudden voltage surges occur in the phase, especially when loaded with a large inductance.
2. If the ground is connected to zero.

If you can't find it, open the boxes and measure the voltage (resistance) with a multimeter. If you do not have the necessary experience, it is better to call an electrician who can quickly determine the location of the fault.

Machine breakdown

Sometimes the circuit breaker is knocked out due to the failure of the device itself. For example, a person installed a machine gun, but it turned out to be defective.

If the integrity of the wiring and equipment is not in doubt, pay attention to the condition of the device and, if necessary, replace it.

If a faulty AB is noticed before the warranty period expires, the device can be replaced at the place of purchase.

When the electric stove is working properly

It is not always the case that a stove or hob is knocked out by a machine or RCD due to a breakdown. And in some cases you can solve the problem yourself. Here are typical situations.

• The plug, cord or socket is faulty. Carefully inspect the plug, cord, and outlet. If damage is found, repair it yourself or contact an electrician.
• Failure of a machine or RCD . It is necessary to check the electrical equipment and, if necessary, replace it with new one. If you are not comfortable with electricity yourself, call an electrician.
• Moisture on the contacts. Often the stove begins to knock out the plugs after it has been washed or if the dish has “run away” during cooking. Due to moisture getting on the contacts (for example, the burner power switch), a short circuit occurs and the cooking machine knocks out. Do not use the stove for about a day, the moisture will dry out and the problem will disappear on its own.
• Incorrect connection of the stove. For safety reasons, electric stoves are connected to a separate line with their own automatic or automatic switch. They can also install an additional RCD (32-40 amperes). If the line or protective equipment is not designed for the power of the stove, then when the burners are heated (at the moment of greatest electricity consumption), an overload will occur and the machine will break. Another common mistake is when, when independently installing a plate in the terminal block, phase, neutral and ground are confused.

Note! Incorrect connection of the stove can lead to its failure. Don’t take risks with your equipment – ​​seek help from a specialist if you don’t understand electricity.

Why does the machine gun knock out in the dashboard: special cases

For a better understanding, let's consider the issue of disconnection in relation to different situations.

Washing machine

When purchasing and connecting a washing machine, you must take into account the power it consumes. The amount of current consumed when heating water to 90 degrees can reach 10 Amperes. That’s why, when you turn on the washing machine, the machine can be knocked out due to a banal overload.

But there are other reasons why the machine in the dashboard knocks out. They are associated with equipment failure.

The main defects of the washing machine that can lead to the shutdown of the AV:

1. Failure of the heating element. During washing, the heating element is in the water, where the powder and particles of clothes from the drum are dissolved. This impact has a negative effect on the surface. The shell gradually corrodes, and moisture gets onto the main spiral. The result is a short circuit. The only solution in such circumstances is to install a new heating element.
2. Failure of the control board. Like other elements of the washing machine, the control board is exposed to moisture. Oxidation processes occur at the contacts, which over time leads to a short circuit and shutdown of the AP. If such a malfunction is detected, the board must be replaced or repaired.
3. Motor failure. The motor is no less a source of risk in a washing machine. When the seal deteriorates or ages, water enters it. The result is a short circuit. The machine in the panel reacts to a sharp increase in current and immediately knocks it out. If an engine breakdown is detected, it must be repaired or replaced.
4. The power button is broken. It is this element that bears the greatest load during operation. Over the years, contacts wear out, and due to high humidity, the risk of oxidation increases. Against this background, the probability of short circuit and knocking out of the AB increases. In this case, you need to change the button or make a revision.

We cannot ignore other reasons why the machine knocks out when the washing machine is turned on. The cause may be a damaged socket or a short circuit in the power cord of the device.

Switching off the machine in the panel without load and under load

There are also completely strange situations when the machine in the panel goes out without load. The device appears to be in good condition and should work. There are several possible reasons for this:

• circuit breaker malfunction;
• errors in AV connection;
• short circuit in the network between the AV and sockets or light switches.

To eliminate the problem, it is necessary to inspect the wiring for damage, assess the condition of the sockets and pay attention to the fact that the machine is in good working order.

When you turn on the light

Situations often occur when, at the moment the light is turned on, the machine in the input panel is knocked out. In this case, the entire apartment or house remains without voltage.

The main reason is the combustion of an incandescent light bulb or a short circuit in its base.

To diagnose a breakdown, you need to unscrew each lamp and look at its condition. Another possible reason is a burnt contact in the switch.

In addition, modern chandeliers often have a 12-volt transformer included in the design of the device. Sometimes it fails, causing the machine in the dashboard to be knocked out.

The standard situation cannot be ruled out: network overload. With a small AB rating (6, 10 A), the probability of operation is high.

This problem is eliminated if LED or fluorescent light bulbs are installed in the apartment or house. The cause of the knockout may be the machine itself, which is not connected correctly or is out of order.

DIY repair

Despite the fact that the design of an electric stove or hob is quite simple, it is not recommended to carry out diagnostics and repairs on your own. Lack of basic knowledge and unskilled intervention in the internal structure of equipment can lead to various negative consequences, which may include:

• loss of time;
• disabling neighboring modules of the device;
• high probability of injury or electric shock when the user checks the functionality of individual components of the device;
• bringing equipment to a state of unsuitability for repair.

You can only fix minor problems yourself. For example, change the power cord or plug. But this also requires basic knowledge of electrical engineering. And such work should be done carefully, observing all safety precautions.

When the well is turned on

When using a well pump, there are situations when, at the moment it is turned on, the machine in the panel knocks out or turns off with a certain time delay. In this case, the pump stops and does not supply water.

Experts identify several reasons:

1. The windings in the pump motor have burned out. It's no secret that the quality of a product depends on the price. Budget models do not last long and fail after 1-2 years of operation (sometimes less). Some devices quickly burn out due to damage to the automation, for example, due to the relay wedge that controls the pressure. If damaged, it cannot turn off the pump, which runs continuously and eventually burns out.
2. The supply cable through which voltage is supplied to the well is damaged. For example, the wire may fray, causing a short circuit. At the same time, the pump itself is operational and, after replacing the cable, continues to perform its assigned tasks. There are cases when the cable turned out to be completely defective.
3. Water got into the block where the wires are connected (located on the well body). As a rule, the problem occurs in the spring when the snow melts.

If the machine is knocked out at the moment the well is turned on, you should not rush to replace the device. Perhaps the reason lies in something else.

We repair faults professionally

Repairing electric stoves at home is the direct specialization of our service. You can order a specialist over the phone. Contact our dispatcher, describe the problem that has arisen, and a specialist will come to you with all the equipment necessary for repairs and diagnostics. Our service center offers affordable prices, new repair tools, high-quality components for replacing broken parts, and experienced and qualified technicians. Diagnostics are carried out free of charge. We repair electric stoves from imported well-known manufacturers, as well as stoves from domestic manufacturers. An extensive component warehouse contains all the parts needed for replacement. The repair will be carried out as quickly as possible, since you will not have to wait for the necessary spare parts to arrive at the warehouse. Upon completion of the work, the technician will issue a guarantee directly for the repair itself, as well as for the replaced elements. With Mastersbyt, your kitchen assistant will delight your dear and beloved people with delicious dishes for a long time to come. You will find a lot of useful information about the intricacies of repair and maintenance of equipment in this section.

Disabling the RCD

In 220 and 380 Volt networks, an RCD is often installed - a device that ensures that the circuit is disconnected when a leak is detected.

Its principle is to compare the input and output current parameters. If the data differs, the RCD is triggered and turns off the section. The reasons for turning off the RCD may be the following:

• the “Test” button element has failed;
• the RCD switching lever is broken;
• a leakage current has appeared inside the RCD casing;
• there was an appearance of leakage current in non-standard equipment;
• connection errors.

In normal mode, the RCD is triggered by voltage breaking through the casing of the electrical receiver or by a person coming under voltage.

Possible faults

By the concept of “knocks out traffic jams,” users understand both the operation of the machine and the switching off of the RCD. The result is the same, but the electrical processes that lead to it are different.

Note! Let us explain for understanding. The RCD detects current leakage and is triggered if there is a breakdown on the housing in household appliances. The machine turns off the power when a short circuit or network overload occurs. A difavtomat is a device that combines an automatic machine and an RCD: it is triggered in both cases. In general, RCDs, automatic devices and difavtomats are automatic devices for disconnecting the power supply, or automation for short.

In tables we have collected frequent malfunctions of electric stoves, due to which the automation is triggered when turned on or while the stove is heating.

• terminal block;
• Heating elements for burners;
• burner power switches;
• other components (depending on model and configuration).

How to diagnose a breakdown

The refrigerator is designed in such a way that it works periodically. Therefore, if the equipment turns off, it will not be for long, only to give the motor-compressor time to “rest”. But, if the refrigerator turns on and turns off immediately, this indicates a breakdown.

To diagnose whether it is working normally, that is, what operating intervals are considered normal, you will have to remember mathematics.

If the refrigerator constantly turns on and off, you should listen to the sounds during operation

This was said at the very beginning, but it is better to briefly duplicate the information. Example: the refrigerator operates for 2 minutes, then rests for the next 10 minutes.

Normal operation coefficient – ​​0.2 – 0.9. If we calculate according to the formula indicated in the article, the coefficient will be 0.166 - this is not the norm.

Another diagnostic method is by sound. If the refrigerator is constantly turning on and off, you should listen to the sounds during operation.

The characteristic click will tell you a lot. The volume at which the engine operates also plays a role. It happens that it is louder than before - this already indicates a malfunction. And the cause could be anything: a compressor, a relay, an electronic board.

Main reasons:

• The motor gets very hot, and when turned off the refrigerator makes a loud clicking noise. The problem lies in the compressor malfunction;
• the frequency of work/rest is disrupted. The problem is in the control board, which signals premature shutdown;
• The refrigerator turns on and turns off almost immediately, with a clicking sound. It's probably a problem with the start protection relay. It's the easiest to replace.

There are not many parts in the refrigerator that cause difficulties. But you still need to be able to determine their malfunction.

Reliable household appliances with delivery

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