In household networks, various devices are used to illuminate rooms: spotlights, chandeliers, LED strips. Most lighting devices are connected to the electrical network with two wires, but there are also those whose connection causes some difficulties for ordinary people and novice electricians.
The most striking example is a ceiling lamp with five shades, called a five-arm lamp, in which instead of two wires there are ten at once. To simplify the installation process, a connection diagram for a five-arm chandelier in two variations will be given below.
Example of a five-arm chandelier
Design features of the chandelier
Chandeliers are most often used as lighting devices in residential premises - multi-lamp lamps designed for installation on the ceiling.
A chandelier is a structure that connects several lighting elements - light bulbs - to provide good lighting in the room.
If you use a regular light bulb in a room, then to ensure proper lighting you will need to install a powerful lighting element, and even then, if the room is large, it will not be enough.
But such light is not always needed, so the best option is to use several lamps.
But in the case of using ordinary light bulbs, each of them will have to run its own wire or branch from the junction box.
But if you install a chandelier, the design of which involves installing several light bulbs, then the complexity of the connection will be the same as for one or more light bulbs.
But at the same time, all lighting elements included in the design will be powered, and from one wire.
And all because the wiring branching occurs at the entrance to the chandelier, and not in the junction box.
Well, don’t discount the aesthetic side of the issue. A lonely light bulb hanging on the ceiling looks dull, or maybe a beautiful chandelier.
To get good lighting in a room with a perfect combination of lighting fixtures with the interior, it is not enough just to purchase a suitable chandelier, you also need to hang it and connect it correctly.
Therefore, next we will consider how to properly connect the chandelier.
Selecting and purchasing a lamp
The choice of lighting device should be entrusted to your wife. Ladies love to travel shopping much more, look for products on sale, they have a better developed sense of beauty, so this will only be a joy for her. How much money should you give to your beloved wife? It all depends on the model, the materials from which it is made, and other features. When choosing, the emphasis is on the unity of design styles of the lamp and other elements of the furnishings in the room. For example:
- MW-LIGHT Bouquet - pendant design guarantees ease of installation, since this five-arm chandelier can be connected using a regular three-channel terminal box. All contacts are already grouped together and are output in a single winding with three cables. The cost of the model does not exceed 6,000 rubles - another plus for the wallet. The floristry style is ideal for the bedroom, but is also suitable for other rooms.
- Favorite Lanta is a suspended model with advantages similar to the previous design. It looks like crystal, costs much less, and is ideal for decorating a living room or large rooms. The total power of all lamps is 200 watts. The price of the product is 13,000 rubles.
- Chiaro Versace is a very luxurious piece of furniture (46,000 rubles), has a powerful design, and is mounted on a durable ceiling hook. All this allows us to recommend the chandelier to true connoisseurs of beauty who do not spare money for luxury. Plus: all wires are hidden inside the barrel of the product, which allows you to rearrange pairs of lamps.
All listed models can be purchased in our store, they are always in stock. If you have difficulties making a choice, you can contact a consultant.
What is taken into account before carrying out work?
Let’s immediately identify a few key points that should definitely be taken into account:
- Design of a chandelier (They are usually divided among themselves by horns - elements at the end of which sockets for light bulbs are installed. As mentioned above, the division into power branches for light bulbs is made at the entrance to the chandelier, and the horns can be considered these branches. By design, chandeliers are hornless, two-, three-, four- and five-horn);
- The switch used (the method of connection depends on this. If, for example, the switch is a single-key switch and when the light is turned on, all the lamps of the chandelier will light up, then this is one connection diagram, but the use of two- or three-key switches, each key of which will be responsible for the operation of a specific group lamps require the use of a slightly different connection method);
- The presence of additional equipment in the design of the chandelier (a fan or a remote control unit makes certain adjustments to the connection diagram);
- Features of the electrical network of the house (in old buildings, two-wire wiring is usually used, and in new or restored buildings the number of wires is already three).
And one more thing - it’s one thing to simply remove the old lighting fixture and connect a new one in its place, and quite another thing to completely create a lighting power line, including laying wiring from the distribution board, installing switches, junction boxes and lighting fixtures, and then connecting them into one network.
We will not delve into the specifics of independently installing the power supply branch of a chandelier, since we are more interested only in how to connect the lighting elements, although some points regarding wiring will be touched upon.
Halogen chandeliers, including those with remote controls
Halogen light bulbs are designed for a voltage of 12 V, so 220/12 V voltage converters are installed in such chandeliers. As a rule, the control circuit is assembled and only 2 wires can stick out of the chandelier, even if the chandelier is controlled by a remote control.
These two conductors are connected to the electrical wires in any order, although the terminal block may be marked with the letters "N" and "L". In addition, there may also be a grounding conductor.
The following video shows how to connect a chandelier with a remote control.
Connecting a chandelier with halogen lamps
Helpful information
Let us immediately point out some features that can help:
- Breaking the circuit with a switch is carried out only through the phase line, and the neutral conductor and grounding conductor (if any) go directly to the consumer;
- For each branch, a separate phase wire is laid at the output of their switch (It is separated in the switch itself. A single-key switch has one phase conductor at the output, a two-key switch has two, a three-key switch has three). This affects the wire used leading from the switch;
- On the terminal blocks of the chandeliers you can find the designation of the terminals, which makes the connection easier (the marking “L” indicates that the terminal is phase, “N” is neutral, “PE” is grounding).
Now directly, how to connect the chandelier to the switch.
Let's assume that the line is made in advance, the switch is in place, and 2 or 3 wires stick out from the ceiling (with the third wire being “ground”).
In general, the connection diagram is the simplest - “one-key switch - 1 lighting fixture.”
If the chandelier is armless (with 1 lamp), then the connection method does not differ at all from powering a simple light bulb.
Also, connecting a chandelier to one or more bulbs is greatly simplified by a multi-channel wireless switch.
Ringing wires
The first step is to check the correct connection. A screwdriver with an indicator shows the charge on some source when the switch is not working. If it is not possible to search for a charge, this means that the switch is not connected correctly or there is a problem in part of the distribution board.
In the area where the lighting device is installed, a neutral with a phase wire element from the switch box should go to the output.
Attention! When connecting a multi-lane lamp, the number of conductors is large. One is neutral and the others correspond to how many switch elements
Using the indicator
Determining the wired destination is not difficult. When the switch is turned on, only 1 of the sources has no voltage, the indicators on the others light up. If you turn off the light keys one by one, you can understand which element corresponds to the switch.
Ringing wires using an indicator
Using a voltmeter
When checking the measuring device, you should find the zero element. Unlike other conductors, there will be no voltage on this one. Then you need to set the probe to zero and turn off the keys one by one to determine the identity of the sources.
Testing wires using a voltmeter
Single-key switch – 1 chandelier
Before starting work, you should determine which wire is which. It would be good if modern wiring with color differences between the cores was used. At the initial stage, only “land” is of interest.
If the electricians did not mess anything up, the ground wire will have a yellow-green braid.
But you will have to figure out the phase and zero yourself and for this you will only need an indicator screwdriver, but all precautions should be taken, since the test is done in live wiring.
Therefore, before applying voltage, you should make sure that the ends of the wires are separated in different directions and do not touch each other.
And only after this can voltage be applied (you also need to turn the switch to the “on” position).
Read on the topic - why aluminum wiring is dangerous.
After we touch the ends of the wiring with the tip of the indicator screwdriver, the indicator light that comes on when touched will indicate that the core is phase, which means the second one is zero.
If there are three wires at the output, and it is not clear which of them is zero and ground, you can use a test light to determine it (we connect a two-core wire to a regular 220 lamp through a socket). Then we identify the phase with an indicator screwdriver.
And then we connect the light bulb to the phase wire and one of the other two.
If the lamp lights up after applying voltage, then the second wire will be zero (if it doesn’t light up, the “ground” is connected to the control). For reliability, the wires should be swapped.
Wire marking
To prevent installation errors and speed up work, manufacturers use generally accepted methods for marking wires.
The following methods of insulation coloring are used in modern cables:
- grounding - yellow-green;
- zero - brown;
- phase - blue.
Older houses used aluminum wiring with white insulation. The cable can be two-core or three-core. It should be taken into account that grounding is not provided in such gaskets. Depending on the number of cores, they always have 1 zero and 1-2 phases. Determining the identity of the wire is carried out by taking measurements directly on the connected line.
In new buildings there is no such need. They contain multi-core cables with standard markings. In this case, the grounding may not be connected. Such an engineering decision is made with a future perspective, if the board of the house during its operation will ground the power supply system.
Two-button switch - chandelier
Now let's talk about how to connect a chandelier to a two-key switch.
Since the number of lamps and their division into groups can be very different, we will consider several options:
- “The switch is a chandelier with two lamps.” Since it was mentioned that in such a switch the phase is divided into two lines, for which a separate key is intended to open the circuit, then 3-4 wires should come out on the ceiling (two phases, zero and ground). It is assumed that each key will power its own lamp. To connect everything, you must first decide where the phase and neutral terminals are. We take the wires of each of the horns, separate two of the same color (for example, blue), twist them and connect them to the zero terminal of the power line. All that remains is to deal with the brown wires of the chandelier. Each of them must be individually connected to the phase terminals of the wiring. There should be three connections in total - two phase (with brown wires) and one neutral (with double blue wires);
- “The switch is a three-arm chandelier.” The peculiarity of this scheme comes down only to the correct separation of the wires. Since there are three lamps, and only two keys (and therefore two phase wires), one of them will power two chandelier bulbs at the same time. As a result, we also get three connections. First we connect zero. To do this, we select one wire of the same color (blue) for each horn, twist them all together and connect them to the neutral wire. That leaves three brown wires. We twist two of them and connect them to one of the phase conductors, and the third to the second phase;
- “Switch – 4-, 5-, 6-arm chandelier.” Here the connection diagram is the same as above, that is, the total number of connections will be three. As before, we twist all the wires of the same color (blue) into one twist and connect it to the neutral core (here a twist is more suitable, not a terminal block). We divide the remaining wires into two halves (for example, in a 4-arm chandelier, you can divide them so that when you turn on one key, two parallel light bulbs light up). We twist each half of the wires and connect them to one of the phase wires. We do the same with the other part of the wires.
We work safely
You will have to work directly with electrical wiring, so it should not be energized at the time of all work. To completely protect yourself from electric shock, you need to not only make sure that the switch is in the “off” position, but also turn off the circuit breakers on the panel.
Attention!!! All work should be carried out only on de-energized equipment. Before testing the cables, disconnect them and make sure that they do not touch in the future.
Cables have accepted markings in Latin characters:
Before testing the cables, disconnect them and make sure that they do not touch in the future. Cables have accepted markings in Latin characters:
- L – phase wire;
- N – neutral;
- PE – yellow-green ground wire.
You may be interested in the article: What are the advantages of high-quality LED lamps?
In general, cable markings are not always found. What do you do if you don't see any signs? Go to the panel and switch the circuit breaker to the “on” mode. You return to the chandelier and, armed with an indicator screwdriver, touch it one by one to the bare ends of the wires coming out of the ceiling. The cable to which the lit LED in the screwdriver will correspond will be a phase cable.
Now you need to turn off the power in the apartment again and you can get to work.
One switch – several chandeliers
Now let's look at how to connect several chandeliers to one switch. Here you will also have to consider the features of the power line.
For example, let’s take a single-key switch that will power three chandeliers at once.
The lighting line diagram with this switch is as follows: phase and zero go from the switchboard to the distribution box.
A wire goes into it from the phase conductor to the switch, and returns to it again.
As a result, in the box we have a zero and a phase (with a switch included in the circuit), to which we can connect the wiring leading to the consumer.
Therefore, in order to connect three chandeliers to this switch at once, it is enough to throw one common line and insert the phase and neutral wires of the lighting devices into it.
Moreover, it is better to connect each chandelier to a common line in distribution boxes (they additionally need to be installed). And then in the chandelier itself, divide it into horns (branches).
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
The entire process of preparing the chandelier for connection and directly connecting the double switch to the power supply is described in the video:
Inexperienced craftsmen quite often make mistakes during the electrical installation process; see which ones and how to avoid them in the video:
If you correctly reproduce all stages of installation and follow the diagram, you can protect yourself from unpleasant consequences when directly operating the lighting device. Moreover, you will be able to create a unique light atmosphere in the room, adjusting it to your needs.
Share with readers your experience of connecting a chandelier to a double switch.
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Connecting a chandelier with additional equipment
Now about connecting the chandelier in which the fan is mounted. This lighting device does not require anything special to connect, since the fan is the same consumer as a regular light bulb (that is, the circuit is the same as that of a two-arm chandelier).
It should be connected to a two-key switch so that you can turn off the light or fan if necessary.
Also, when connecting such a chandelier, you should read the instructions, which should indicate which of the wires going to power the fan is phase and which is neutral, and use this information when connecting.
The same applies to chandeliers that have remote control using a remote control.
Inside such a device there will be a special executive unit with a controller that receives signals from the remote control.
So, this unit requires power, and it works on the same principle as a light bulb.
But in chandeliers with LED lamps, the lighting elements operate from a 12V network with direct current. And for this purpose, the design of the lighting device contains a step-down transformer, which has phase and neutral terminals.
Connecting this chandelier is as easy as connecting a regular light bulb.
Sometimes there is a need to install a combination switch to power the chandelier, combined with an outlet.
Preparatory work
The number of shades in a chandelier determines not only the glow points, but also the number of leads from them; each bulb in horn chandeliers has two leads. It's good if they are already connected to the socket, otherwise the leads are simply inserted into the corresponding guides, but not connected to anything.
In this case, it is necessary to test each connection for the presence of a circuit using a multimeter. If the measuring device shows the presence of a connection, then you can proceed to the next step, otherwise you need to remove the lampshade and connect the wires to the socket contacts.
The leads in the chandelier are connected to one point from each horn. The blue wires are connected to the common node of the electrical circuit - this will be the zero terminal. The brown or red wires are connected into a node for connection to the phase conductor. The color marking of the wires may vary significantly depending on the manufacturer. The number of phase nodes will depend on the electrical circuit through which the lighting device is connected.
If two wires come out of the ceiling
To connect a chandelier with 2 wires, just connect the neutral from the distribution box directly to the neutral from the lamp. The phase is connected to the switch and chandelier. If there is more than one lamp in the lamp, then you first need to connect the zeros of the bulbs, and only then connect them to the wire coming from the box. The same needs to be done with the phases: first connect the phase wires from the light bulbs, then connect them to the switch through the phase.
Attention! Follow safety precautions. To do this, de-energize the apartment by turning off the corresponding switch in the panel. You cannot be sure that you have protected yourself from electric shock just by pressing the switch button. Errors happen, and it is not the phase that opens, but the zero. This means that voltage constantly flows to the switch, regardless of its “on” or “off” position.
Connecting a chandelier with three wires in the case where only two come out of the ceiling is possible only to a single-key switch. In this case, zero is connected to zero, phase to phase, and the remaining luster phase wire is insulated.
Search for zero
Any connection of a chandelier begins with a search for a common wire - neutral. It will always be connected to the network, while the phases are intended to close and open the electrical circuit. Finding zero was not difficult if the electricians followed the color dependence when installing the wiring. But since this is not the case, you will have to use an indicator screwdriver or a multimeter.
If there are a pair of wires coming out of the ceiling:
- Close the phase with the switch;
- Use an indicator screwdriver to touch each exposed end of the wires coming from the hole in the ceiling;
- That wire, upon contact with which the diode light bulb on the screwdriver lights up, is a phase. Mark it with the Latin letter L;
- The other wire is common and must be designated with the letter N.
If a triple cable comes out of the ceiling, then you can find zero in three ways:
- Using an indicator screwdriver (not the most reliable method, since it only works in properly constructed wiring);
- Using a multimeter (a reliable method, but requires a tester);
- By disassembling the switch while first de-energizing the apartment (reliable, but tedious).
You already know how to look for zero using an indicator screwdriver. No matter how many wires are peeking out of the ceiling, just zero will not indicate the presence of voltage. But if the wiring is constructed in violation of the rules, then the wire marked zero may turn out to be a phase. To check the correctness, it is enough to touch all the wires with the multimeter probes in pairs with the switch turned off. If no voltage is detected anywhere, then the result shown by a screwdriver with an indicator is reliable.
In case of incorrectly constructed wiring, use a tester to find zero:
- Set the multimeter to AC voltage measurement mode;
- Turn one switch key on and turn the other off;
- Touch the probes to each pair of those that can be made from a triple sample;
- Bend aside the two cables between which the multimeter indicated the voltage. Zero will be among them;
- Switch the switch keys in the reverse order. The one that was turned on should become disabled, and vice versa;
- Check if the voltage is lost between the two bent wires? If yes, then you did everything right;
- Now touch the third, separate wire with one probe, and with the other, one of those in the bent pair;
- If voltage occurs, then this wire from the pair is zero. If not, then move the probe from the first wire in the pair to the second;
- If voltage appears between the rejected wire and the second wire in the pair, then this second wire in the pair is zero.
The last method, disassembling the switch box, begins with de-energizing the apartment by moving the corresponding switch in the panel to the “off” position. Once you disassemble the switch, you will see three wires. Two of them are supplied to the keys, and the third goes directly to the ceiling. This is zero.
Common mistakes
Often, inexperienced electricians lower the neutral conductor to the switch along with the phase conductor, and then ask questions about where to connect it. In fact, there is no need to pull the neutral wire to the switch . And even more so, there is no need to break it with a switching element. It must go through the box in transit, laid parallel to the earth conductor.
Another common mistake when connecting a double switch is connecting the phase conductor not to the terminal common to the two contact groups, but to one of the outgoing ones. In this case, only one group of lamps will light up. This error is easy to spot and correct.
Other errors that lead to the inoperability of the lighting circuit, in most cases, occur due to inattention and are associated with incorrect connection of electrical wires. To eliminate such problems, you need to check the diagram more often (especially if you have no experience).
Otherwise, connecting a chandelier should not cause any problems if you know the basics of electrical engineering.
Primary requirements
The most important requirements when working with electrical wiring are compliance with safety rules and rules for installing electrical devices. There is no point in studying the “bible” of electricians: “Rules for the safe operation of consumer electrical installations” (RBEEP) and “Rules for the construction of electrical installations” (RUE). Such documentation is necessary mainly for those people for whom working with electricity is their main activity. For home repairs, to connect a chandelier with a switch, it is enough to know and follow simple rules.
- Rule 1. All tools that will be used to perform work on electrical wiring must have high-quality insulation of the handles.
Tool set with insulated handles
- Rule 2. Most work should be performed only on de-energized wires. It is not enough to flip the light switch. To completely cut off the power, there is a main switch on the apartment panel, which must be turned off before starting work.
- Rule 3. The light switch is mounted exclusively in the break of the phase wire.
Correct connection of the switch
The switch is mounted in the gap of the phase wire.
Connection diagram for a chandelier with a double switch.
As can be seen from the figure, there are three wires suitable for the double switch, one of which comes from the junction box, and the other two are used to connect the lamp. Therefore, when installing new wiring, you need to use a cable with 3 wires.
Connecting a chandelier to a double switch follows the same rules as connecting a regular lamp.
What are the risks of polarity reversal?
Quite often you can hear from non-professional advisers that the switch can be installed on any wire. Like, what difference does it make, because when the contacts are open, no current flows through the lamp and that’s enough. This is wrong. The fact is that if the switch breaks the neutral conductor, then no current will flow through the chandelier lamps, but there will be a phase potential on all wires, which threatens an electric shock during work.
A less dangerous, but unpleasant feature of such switching is that fluorescent lamps and “housekeeper” lamps can glow faintly or flicker even in the off position.
Tool
To connect a chandelier or other lamp you will need the following:
- Straight and Phillips screwdrivers;
- Side cutters;
- Pliers;
- Sharp knife;
- Measuring instrument, digital or pointer;
- Indicator screwdriver (probe);
- Insulating tape.
The purpose of most tools is clear without comment. Why do you need a knife? In some cases, namely when removing insulation from single-core conductors of an electric cable, side cutters or pliers cannot be used, since a transverse cut of the core on the connected wire will lead to its fracture. This is especially true for aluminum wires.
The insulation must be cut with a sharp knife, similar to how a pencil is sharpened. Longitudinal scratches on wire strands are not dangerous.
The indicator screwdriver is used to search for the phase conductor. And although its end provides the possibility of using it as a screwdriver, this is not necessary, since the mechanical strength of the indicator is very low and it is almost impossible to tighten the screw normally without breaking the tool (it is possible, but the tool will not last long).
Indicator screwdriver - the main tool of an electrician
You should dwell in more detail on measuring instruments. They are digital and pointer. For most parameters, digital is preferable. They have high accuracy, are not afraid of shocks and falls from a height, and are protected from overload.
The pointer device should be used only in the position for which it is intended (most portable devices should be placed horizontally); a fall from a height will with a 100% probability disable it, as will overload if the regulator is incorrectly set. The undoubted advantage of a pointer device is that voltage measurements can be made without a built-in power source.
Inexpensive pointer and digital testers made in China
Note for all types of devices: the operating range must provide for measuring an alternating voltage of at least 500 V.
Correct connection to the socket
The chandelier can use different sockets - with Edison thread, plug-in, etc. In most cases, the phasing of the connection of conductors to the socket is not important for the performance of the lighting device. But for safety reasons, in a threaded cartridge, a phase conductor must be connected to the central contact , and a neutral conductor must be connected to the side contacts. The logic is this: if an electrician, in violation of safety rules, performs any operations inside a live socket (bending contacts, cleaning plastic parts, etc.), then the risk of accidentally touching the side contacts with a screwdriver or other tool is much higher. It would be better if this would-be electrician touches the neutral wire. Otherwise, connecting the cartridge has no special features - the stripped wires are inserted into spring clamps or clamped into screw terminals located at the rear of the cartridge. And it is also important not to exceed the power of the lamp for which the cartridge is designed. This may cause it to overheat.
| Chuck type | Voltage, V | Maximum load current, A (Power, W) |
| E27 ceramic | 220 | 4 (880) |
| E27 plastic | 220 | 0,27(60) |
| G4 | 12 | 5(60) |
| G9 | 12 | 5(60) |
How to connect a chandelier with your own hands: step-by-step instructions
After reading the title of the article, someone will probably say, “why write about this, any apartment owner can handle this kind of work himself.” Yes, of course, installing and connecting a chandelier does not belong to the work of the highest category of complexity, however, these processes also have specific nuances, on which, by the way, the safety of living in the apartment depends.
How to connect a chandelier with your own hands
The chandelier is connected to electricity, and all electrical appliances, if installed incorrectly, become a source of danger - electric shock or even fire. In addition, this lighting device is often quite massive, and can cause a lot of trouble if it is not securely fixed to the ceiling. Thus, the whole complex of problems associated with how to connect a chandelier with your own hands is conditionally divided into two directions - ensuring its correct connection to the electrical network and its reliable and most beautiful placement on the ceiling plane.
Find out useful information on how to avoid paying too much for electricity from our new article.
What to consider when choosing a chandelier
It is clear that the vast majority of apartment owners choose this lighting device, relying primarily on its external design, so that it matches the overall interior design of the room. However, we must not forget about some other aspects of choice.
- The total light output of the chandelier must correspond to the size and type of room for which it is intended. There are certain lighting standards, which can be briefly presented as follows:
— For rooms where soft diffused, dim light is required (a typical example is a bedroom), you should proceed from 10 ÷ 12 W/m² of area.
— For rooms with an average level of general illumination (kitchen, bath, toilet) or where it is planned to install additional lighting for specific workplaces (office or children's room), the norm will be from 15 to 20 W/m².
— For rooms with bright lighting (living room), this figure is taken equal to 20 W/m².
In accordance with the calculated power, a lighting device with the required number of horns should be selected. An important nuance - in no case should you increase the overall illumination by using more powerful lamps than allowed by the manufacturer. The material of lampshades, sockets, and the cross-section of internal wiring may not be designed for increased loads, and this will lead to damage to the device or even a fire hazard.
The chandelier must be in harmony with the interior, both in size and decorative design.
- The dimensions of the lighting fixture must be in harmony with the overall dimensions of the room. A huge chandelier will look ridiculous in a fairly cramped room, or, conversely, one that is too small will simply get lost on the plane of the ceiling of a vast hall. Designers recommend proceeding from the following considerations:
— The optimal diameter of the chandelier can be approximately determined by the formula:
D = ( L + S) × 10
D – diameter of the chandelier in centimeters
L and S are the length and width of the room, respectively, in meters.
So, for example, for a room measuring 5 × 3 m, the best option would be a chandelier with a diameter of 80 cm.
- The type of chandelier you choose depends on the height of the room. If the ceilings in the room are low, about 2.5 m, then it is better to give preference to the ceiling version of the lighting fixture, so that there is at least 2.0 ÷ 2.2 m from the floor to it. The pendant version will be appropriate in a room with high ceilings, and here the length of the suspension will be determined only by aesthetic considerations.
- Be sure to compare the type and material of the ceiling with the weight of the chandelier and the method of hanging it - this will be discussed below.
- Chandeliers are most often sold disassembled, so special attention is paid to completeness, matching threads on all collapsible parts, and the integrity of decorative elements. Be sure to check for clear and understandable installation instructions for the product.
- Unfortunately, the lighting market is literally oversaturated with cheap and low-quality products and outright counterfeits of well-known brands. Such products can be equipped with cartridges made of low-grade plastic, which is not designed for high temperatures. They will give out a counterfeit product due to poor-quality installation of the electrical part, twisted wires, lack of terminal connections, etc. Often you have to independently reconnect wires, unsolder them and insulate them according to all the rules. This is especially true for “sophisticated” chandeliers with LED additional circuits, power supplies or current transformation, remote control devices, etc. In order not to take on these extra troubles, it is better to choose a product with really high-quality cable and electrical components, ask the store to assemble it and check the functionality of the product.
Video: some tips for choosing a chandelier
Prices for chandeliers and ceiling lamps
Chandeliers and ceiling lights
Dealing with the wires on the chandelier and on the ceiling
In this article we will not consider particularly complex options with chandeliers stuffed with electronics - their installation in most cases will definitely require the services of an appropriately qualified specialist. But everyone should be able to connect an ordinary chandelier on their own.
First of all, a few theoretical questions in the field of home electrical wiring. As you know, the power supply in our area is provided by alternating current with a standard voltage of 220 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. Household wiring is carried out through two wires - phase and neutral. If the house has a grounding loop (in modern housing this becomes a necessity and most often, in new buildings this issue is provided for in advance), then a third wire connected to the grounding bus is included in the wiring.
There is a generally accepted color marking for wires in a single-phase electrical network:
Standard wire color coding
A characteristic nuance is that if the neutral wire is always blue or blue in color, and the grounding contact is yellow-green, then the color of the phase wire can vary:
General table of color marking of power wires
Often, several phase wires of one or more colors can be assembled in one cable - this is used, among other things, when connecting lighting devices, to switch different modes of their operation:
The cable may have several phase wires
Ideally, both the chandelier and house wiring should use the same color coding. However, practice shows that in both cases this rule is not always observed. For example, in old houses, aluminum or copper wires in single-color insulation were used for wiring. In this case, you will have to deal with them yourself.
When working with electrical wiring, special attention should be paid to safety measures. It is strictly forbidden to touch bare wires with unprotected hands unless the general power supply is turned off. You must wear shoes with rubber soles. To work near the ceiling, you need to provide a reliable base - an unstable stool or bedside table can lead to loss of balance, falling and injury. For these purposes, the best option would be a stepladder mounted on a rubber mat.
1. So, the simplest option is a cable with two wires coming out of a hole in the ceiling. It is clear that one of them is phase, and the other is zero. According to existing rules, the neutral must go directly to the distribution box, and the phase must be interrupted at the switch. Nevertheless, it doesn’t hurt to check - very often electricians “don’t bother” with these issues.
Various types of indicators for checking phase
- To check, you need to have a special device - a phase indicator. Most often it is designed in the form of a screwdriver with a transparent body, although modern models may have a different design, including even an indication of the phase voltage value.
- First of all, it is necessary to completely de-energize the room or the entire apartment at the distribution panel. This is necessary in order to thoroughly strip the wires of insulation and oxides to a length of 5 ÷ 8 mm. After stripping, the wires are spread as far apart as possible to prevent short circuits. After this, turn on the machine on the dashboard.
- Then, with the switch in the off position, both wires are checked sequentially. Neither should show the presence of a phase. If there is a phase on one wire, it means the wiring in the house is done incorrectly - the “zero” on the switch, apparently, is interrupted. It is very difficult to change anything in this case - you just need to keep this in mind, taking special care in further work.
Checking the phases on a cable coming out of the ceiling
- The phase is checked in the same way when the switch is in the on position. As a result, a phase wire will be identified, which can be marked in a certain way (with a marker or colored electrical tape).
2. If a switch with two or more keys is installed in the room, then the corresponding number of phase wires should come out of the ceiling hole. The test is carried out in the same way as described above, with each phase marked separately, in accordance with the location of the switch keys.
A similar check should be carried out even if color-coded wiring is installed - simply to eliminate mistakes by the electrician who once installed it.
3. Now - about the cable part of the chandelier itself.
Typical electrical diagram for connecting a chandelier with one group of lamps
- The easiest way is when the chandelier has one or two or three arms, without dividing them into groups. All wires from the cartridges are assembled into two contact groups - neutral and phase. If there is a ground wire, it is usually attached to the metal body of the lamp.
Connection diagram with a two-pin switch and two groups of lamps
- In the event that it is necessary to separate the horns with cartridges into two or more groups, then all the blue “zero” wires are connected into one bundle, and the phase wires are divided into several, according to the number of keys on the switch.
Very often on chandeliers this can be seen quite clearly, and such switching will not be difficult.
The simplest case: all the wires are in full view
- In both cases, the bundles of twisted wires should be thoroughly soldered and placed in a screw terminal block or separate spring terminals.
The chandelier wiring is divided into groups and fixed in the terminal block
- It is somewhat more difficult to understand when the design of the chandelier does not make it possible to visually understand its internal wiring. However, you can figure it out here too by testing all the outgoing wires using a multitester. To do this, you can sequentially screw an incandescent lamp into the sockets (an energy-saving fluorescent lamp will not help in this case), and experimentally find out which horn is powered from which wire. After this, it will be easy to distribute the horns into groups.
To “ring” hidden wires you will need a multitester.
There are other methods for determining the internal wiring of a chandelier, based on calculating the resistance of a circuit with lamps of the same rating screwed into all sockets, but in practice it is probably easier to simply ring each horn.
So, the result of checking the chandelier circuits and fixed wiring in the room should be a clear understanding of the circuit, prepared for switching and marked wires on the ceiling and groups of contacts on the lighting fixture itself.
Video: diagram of connecting a five-arm chandelier to a two-key switch
Mounting a chandelier on the ceiling of a room
If everything has become clear with the electrical part, it is necessary to ensure that the chandelier is securely fastened to the ceiling. The technology of operation depends on the design of the chandelier and the type of ceiling covering.
Hanging a chandelier on a hook
This is an old and proven method of installing chandeliers, which have a special loop, ring or hook for this purpose.
In older multi-story buildings, hanging hooks were installed in ceiling openings during the construction stage. If it’s standing, then there’s less of a problem; however, it doesn’t hurt to still test it for strength. To do this, it is necessary to hang a load with a total mass twice the weight of the chandelier planned for installation. If such a load can be easily withstood, then there should be no special concerns.
What to do if the old hook is unreliable or its condition does not inspire confidence that it will withstand the load? It's okay, you can install it yourself.
In principle, there should be no problems with a wooden ceiling - a hook-screw can be easily screwed into it.
Hook-screw works well for wooden ceilings
There can be various solutions with a concrete floor slab:
— You can hang the hook on a transverse steel rod, which is inserted into the cable channel of the slab. When doing this, be careful not to damage the wiring running there with the rod.
Hook suspended from a metal rod
— Another option with an old hole in the ceiling is to insert a hook with a butterfly lock into it. Having passed into the cable channel, the “wings” of this fastening will straighten and create the necessary support, and all that remains is to fix the entire suspension with a washer and nut.
Hook with spring lock-butterfly
— If this option is not possible, for example, in the case where there is no “standard” opening for the hook, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the concrete floor for a plastic dowel, but it is still better - for a metal anchor with a ring or hook.
Before drilling, it would be useful to evaluate the direction of the wiring from the junction box to the outlet on the ceiling, so as not to accidentally break the cable with a drill or break its insulation.
If during drilling you encounter an internal cavity in the slab, use a special metal dowel for hollow-core structures - when it is screwed in, a “skirt” is formed that reliably holds the fastening element in the ceiling.
Metal dowel with hook for hollow structures
After installing any type of hook, it should be tested for load - as described above. It is recommended to then insulate the protruding metal part by wrapping it with electrical tape or putting a heat-shrinkable tube of the appropriate diameter on it, followed by heating.
If the hook is reliable, you can hang the chandelier using the standard mount. Be sure to turn off the general power supply to the room in order to connect the contact part. The wires are connected using terminal connectors - twisting is not allowed, as sparks may occur on them and the insulation will melt. The connection is carried out in full accordance with the wiring diagram described above.
The chandelier is hung on a hook, the wires are connected at the terminals
The place of the contact connection of the wires and the suspension on the hook is usually covered with a decorative glass (cap).
After completing the installation, turn on the power supply at the panel, then at the switch to immediately make sure there are no short circuits. It doesn’t hurt to check with an indicator that there is no phase on the metal body of the chandelier. If everything is normal, then with the switch keys turned off, the necessary lamps are screwed in or inserted into the socket and the practical functionality of all chandelier arms is checked in all switching modes.
After checking, you can begin the final installation of the chandelier - installing shades, hanging all removable decorative parts, etc., according to the assembly instructions attached to the product.
Installing a chandelier on a mounting plate
Many manufactured chandeliers, especially those intended for low rooms, are not hung on hooks, but are installed using screw fasteners on a special mounting strip fixed to the ceiling. This significantly improves the reliability of the overall installation, since the load is evenly distributed across multiple attachment points.
Scheme for hanging a chandelier on a mounting strip
The design of the mounting strip can be different - it all depends on the specific model of the chandelier and its weight. The strip may be straight or curved, with brackets to secure the light fixture housing, or with protruding studs or screws.
Cross mounting plate
The set with particularly heavy chandeliers may include cross-shaped strips or in the form of a reinforced I-beam profile.
The strip may have a hole with grommet-lined edges to accommodate wires coming out of the ceiling. You can also place the bar in close proximity to the cable exit point - the body of the installed chandelier will hide both the hole in the ceiling and the wiring connection.
The strip can be attached near the point where the wires exit
The mounting strip is attached to the ceiling plane in various ways, depending on specific conditions. In fact, this is described above, with the only difference that instead of dowels with a ring or hook, regular dowels with a “counter-sunk” pressure head are used.
Just as when using a hook, be sure to check the reliability of the fastening under load.
The fastening must be checked under load - to prevent situations like this
Quite often a situation occurs when placing the dowels too close to the old hole in the ceiling does not ensure reliable installation - the edge of the concrete may crack or crumble. So the optimal choice of fasteners and installation location still remains with the direct performer of the work.
Attaching the chandelier itself to the mounting plate may also have its own characteristics. In this case, you may need help - the lamp will have to be held suspended while the cable part is being switched. After the wires are connected, the chandelier body is secured to the bar with decorative nuts or screws.
Further work on performance monitoring and final installation is no different from what was outlined above.
Features of attaching a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling
By and large, you should plan the placement of a chandelier on a plasterboard ceiling even before its installation. In this case, no problems are foreseen - one or several additional metal profiles are provided in advance for attaching the mounting strip, or a hook is installed, which can then be easily extended using a chain or rod. A hole is immediately marked in the plasterboard sheet and drilled in the right place for the wires and hook to exit.
But what to do if this issue of hanging a chandelier arose later?
- In the case when the lighting device is of a pendant type, it is impossible to install the hook directly into the gypsum plasterboard - its strength is unlikely to be sufficient for a point load. You can do this as follows:
A hole is drilled in the ceiling with a diameter smaller than the decorative cap of the lamp.
Exactly in the center of this opening, with a long drill installed in a hammer drill, a hole is drilled in the floor slab along the anchor fastening.
Anchors with studs
An anchor with a long threaded pin is inserted and fixed as far as possible in the hole made, so that the pin extends out beyond the plane of the drywall.
A ring nut can be screwed onto the protruding threaded part of the stud
An eye-nut is screwed onto the protruding end of the stud, from which the chandelier itself will later be suspended. The excess hairpin is carefully cut off with a hacksaw.
Spring “butterfly” with hairpin
If there is a void or an old hole in the ceiling, everything is the same as when working on a regular ceiling, only the fastening elements do not have a ring, but a long threaded part, so that it goes out.
- If the chandelier is of a console type, that is, installed on a mounting plate, then much depends on its weight.
— In the case when the total weight of the lamp does not exceed 3 - 5 kg, the bar can be attached directly to the gypsum fiber sheet. For this purpose, special dowels for drywall are used - “butterflies” or snails.
Butterfly and snail dowels for attaching parts to drywall
The former are held as a result of the expansion of the plastic structure under the sheet of drywall when screwing in the self-tapping screw. The second has a different principle of operation - a very high and sharp thread with a large plane of contact with the sheet material creates a reliable connection when screwed in. The “snail” is screwed in completely, flush with the surface of the gypsum plasterboard, in the right place, and in its center there remains a hole into which a regular self-tapping screw can easily fit.
— If the chandelier is heavier, then to attach the mounting strip you will have to resort to the method with anchors with studs. - - as described above. The protruding threaded parts of two or more studs will become fasteners for a rack or cross-shaped console.
All further actions are no different from installing a chandelier on a regular ceiling.
Video: option for attaching a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling
Prices for various types of anchors
Anchors
Mounting a chandelier on a suspended ceiling
No practical advice on how to independently install a chandelier on a suspended ceiling will be given - this should only be done by craftsmen and exclusively before hanging the ceiling sheet.
Read detailed information about the location of lamps on a suspended ceiling, which is important to know, in our new article.
To install the chandelier, a mounting platform is prepared in advance and suspended from the floor slab, the lower cut of which should fall at the planned height of the stretched fabric. Based on the location of this embedded platform, craftsmen must cut and properly process the holes themselves, strengthening their edges through which wires and fasteners will pass.
Approximate installation diagram of a chandelier on a suspended ceiling
Attempting to cut holes yourself in order to hang a chandelier on an already installed stretch ceiling, using working techniques like a plasterboard ceiling, will not lead to anything good. With a probability close to 100%, they are doomed to failure. The deplorable, but logical result of such amateur activity will be the need to completely replace the canvas.
After the ceiling craftsmen have completed the work, leaving the necessary holes for the chandelier and fasteners, reinforced with special grommets, the installation of the lamp is carried out with the utmost care, in order to in no case allow the surface to rupture or puncture.
On a suspended ceiling, it is preferable to use a suspended version of the chandelier so that the lamps are not in close proximity to the canvas. In addition, ordinary incandescent lamps, halogen lamps or fluorescent lamps are not suitable for these purposes - they will quickly ruin the decorative appearance of the ceiling covering. Therefore, in order for the ceiling to retain its attractiveness for as long as possible, only LED models are needed.
