The generator voltage regulator relay is an integral part of the electrical system of any car. It is used to maintain voltage within a certain range of values. In this article you will learn about what designs of regulators currently exist, including mechanisms that have not been used for a long time.
Basic automatic control processes
It doesn't matter what type of generator set is used in the car. In any case, it has a regulator in its design. The automatic voltage regulation system allows you to maintain a certain parameter value, regardless of the frequency at which the generator rotor rotates. The figure shows the generator voltage regulator relay, its diagram and appearance.
By analyzing the physics by which a generator set operates, it can be concluded that the output voltage increases as the rotor speed becomes higher. It can also be concluded that voltage regulation is carried out by reducing the current supplied to the rotor winding as the rotation speed increases.
What is a generator
Any car generator consists of several parts:
1. A rotor with an excitation winding, around which an electromagnetic field is created during operation.
2. A stator with three windings connected in a star configuration (alternating voltage is removed from them in the range from 12 to 30 Volts).
3. In addition, the design contains a three-phase rectifier consisting of six semiconductor diodes. It is worth noting that the VAZ 2107 generator voltage relay-regulator (injector or carburetor in the injection system) is the same.
But the generator will not be able to operate without a voltage regulation device. The reason for this is the voltage change over a very wide range. Therefore, it is necessary to use an automatic control system. It consists of a comparison device, control, executive, master and special sensor. The main element is the regulatory body. It can be either electrical or mechanical.
SHI stabilizer
Pulse-width stabilizers are characterized by more stable operation, that is, an almost constant voltage is supplied to the vehicle network, and small deviations within the normal range are smooth. The device circuit uses the same parts as in the original, but at the same time the K561TL1 microcircuit is included. This made it possible to assemble a multivibrator and a short pulse shaper on the 1st node. The output switch control unit has also been simplified due to the use of a field-effect transistor with increased power.
Generator operation
When the rotor begins to rotate, some voltage appears at the generator output. And it is supplied to the excitation winding through a control element. It is also worth noting that the generator set output is connected directly to the battery. Therefore, voltage is constantly present on the excitation winding. When the rotor speed increases, the voltage at the generator set output begins to change. A voltage regulator relay from a Valeo generator or any other manufacturer is connected to the generator output.
In this case, the sensor detects the change, sends a signal to a comparing device, which analyzes it, comparing it with a given parameter. Next, the signal goes to the control device, from which it is supplied to the actuator. The regulatory body is able to reduce the value of the current that flows to the rotor winding. As a result, the voltage at the generator set output is reduced. In a similar way, the mentioned parameter is increased in the event of a decrease in rotor speed.
Generator device
The design of a car generator implies the presence of its own rectifier and control circuit. The generating part of the generator, using a stationary winding (stator), generates three-phase alternating current, which is then rectified by a series of six large diodes and the direct current charges the battery. Alternating current is induced by the rotating magnetic field of the winding (around the field winding or rotor). Next, the current is supplied to the electronic circuit through the brushes and slip rings.
Generator structure: 1.Nut. 2. Washer. 3.Pulley 4.Front cover. 5. Distance ring. 6.Rotor. 7.Stator. 8.Back cover. 9.Casing. 10. Gasket. 11.Protective sleeve. 12. Rectifier unit with capacitor. 13. Brush holder with voltage regulator.
The generator is located at the front of the car engine and is started using the crankshaft. The connection diagram and operating principle of a car generator are the same for any car. There are, of course, some differences, but they are usually associated with the quality of the manufactured product, the power and the layout of the components in the motor. All modern cars are equipped with alternating current generator sets, which include not only the generator itself, but also a voltage regulator. The regulator equally distributes the current in the excitation winding, and it is due to this that the power of the generator set itself fluctuates at a time when the voltage at the power output terminals remains unchanged.
New cars are most often equipped with an electronic unit on the voltage regulator, so the on-board computer can control the amount of load on the generator set. In turn, on hybrid cars the generator performs the work of the starter-generator; a similar circuit is used in other designs of the stop-start system.
The principle of operation of a car generator
Connection diagram for the VAZ 2110-2115 generator
The alternator connection diagram includes the following components:
- Battery.
- Generator.
- Fuse block.
- Ignition.
- Dashboard.
- Rectifier block and additional diodes.
The principle of operation is quite simple: when you turn on the ignition, the plus goes through the ignition switch through the fuse box, the light bulb, the diode bridge and goes through the resistor to the minus. When the light on the dashboard lights up, then the plus goes to the generator (to the excitation winding), then during the process of starting the engine, the pulley begins to rotate, the armature also rotates, due to electromagnetic induction, electromotive force is generated and alternating current appears.
The most dangerous thing for the generator is the short circuit of the heat sink plates connected to the “ground” and the “+” terminal of the generator by metal objects accidentally falling between them or conductive bridges formed by contamination.
Next, the diode passes plus into the rectifier block through a sine wave into the left arm, and minus into the right arm. Additional diodes on the light bulb cut off the negatives and only positives are obtained, then it goes to the dashboard assembly, and the diode that is there allows only the negative to pass through, as a result the light goes out and the positive then goes through the resistor and goes to the negative.
The principle of operation of a car DC generator can be explained as follows: a small direct current begins to flow through the excitation winding, which is regulated by the control unit and is maintained by it at a level of slightly more than 14 V. Most generators in a car are capable of generating at least 45 amperes. The generator operates at 3000 rpm and above - if you look at the ratio of the size of the fan belts for the pulleys, it will be two or three to one in relation to the engine frequency.
To avoid this, the plates and other parts of the generator rectifier are partially or completely covered with an insulating layer. The heat sinks are combined into a monolithic design of the rectifier unit mainly by mounting plates made of insulating material, reinforced with connecting bars.
Next, let's look at the connection diagram for a car generator using the example of a VAZ-2107 car.
Two-level regulators
A two-level automatic control system consists of a generator, a rectifier element, and a battery. It is based on an electric magnet, its winding is connected to the sensor. The driving devices in these types of mechanisms are very simple. These are ordinary springs. A small lever is used as a comparison device. It is mobile and makes switching. The actuator is the contact group. The control element is a constant resistance. Such a generator voltage regulator relay, the diagram of which is given in the article, is very often used in technology, although it is morally outdated.
ILV connection diagrams
In the panel, the voltage relay is always installed after the meter in the break of the phase wire. He must control and, if necessary, cut off the “phase”. There is no other way to connect it.
There are two main circuits for connecting single-phase relays of the mains voltage regulator:
- with direct load through the RLV;
- with load connection via a contactor – with magnetic starter connection.
When installing an electrical panel in a house, the first option is almost always used. There are plenty of various ILV models with the required power on sale. Plus, if necessary, these relays can be installed in a parallel circuit and several by connecting a separate group of electrical appliances to each of them.
Installation is extremely simple. On the body of a standard single-phase relay there are three terminals - “zero” plus phase “input” and “output”. Just make sure not to mix up the connected wires.
Operation of a two-level regulator
When the generator operates, a voltage appears at the output, which is supplied to the winding of the electromagnetic relay. In this case, a magnetic field arises, with its help the lever arm is attracted. The latter is acted upon by a spring, which is used as a comparing device. If the voltage becomes higher than expected, the contacts of the electromagnetic relay open. In this case, a constant resistance is included in the circuit. Less current is supplied to the field winding. The voltage regulator relay for the VAZ 21099 generator and other domestic and imported cars operates on a similar principle. If the voltage at the output decreases, then the contacts are closed, and the current strength changes upward.
Electronic regulator
Two-level mechanical voltage regulators have a big drawback - excessive wear of the elements. For this reason, instead of an electromagnetic relay, semiconductor elements operating in key mode began to be used. The operating principle is similar, only the mechanical elements are replaced by electronic ones. The sensing element is made on a voltage divider, which consists of constant resistors. A zener diode is used as a driving device.
The modern relay-voltage regulator of the VAZ 21099 generator is a more advanced device, reliable and durable. The executive part of the control device operates on transistors. As the voltage at the generator output changes, the electronic switch closes or opens the circuit, and additional resistance is connected if necessary. It is worth noting that two-level regulators are imperfect devices. Instead, it is better to use more modern developments.
Three-level regulation system
The quality of regulation of such structures is much higher than that of those previously discussed. Previously, mechanical designs were used, but today non-contact devices are more common. All elements used in this system are the same as those discussed above. But the operating principle is slightly different. First, voltage is applied through a divider to a special circuit in which information is processed. It is possible to install such a generator voltage regulator relay (Ford Sierra can also be equipped with similar equipment) on any car if you know the device and connection diagram.
Here the actual value is compared with the minimum and maximum. If the voltage deviates from the value that is set, then a certain signal appears. It is called a mismatch signal. It is used to regulate the current flowing to the excitation winding. The difference from a two-level system is that there are several additional resistances.
Is it possible to make a regulator with your own hands?
An example is considered on the regulatory mechanism for a scooter. The main nuance is that for correct operation the generator unit will need to be disassembled. A separate conductor must lead out the ground cable. The device is assembled according to the circuit of a single-phase generator.
Algorithm of actions:
- The generating set is disassembled and the stator element is removed from the scooter motor.
- There is ground around the windings on the left; it needs to be desoldered.
- Instead, a separate cable for winding is soldered. Then this contact is brought out. This conductor will be one end of the winding.
- The generator device is being reassembled. These manipulations are carried out so that two cables come out of the unit. They will be used.
- Then a shunt device is connected to the resulting contacts. At the final stage, the yellow cable from the old relay is connected to the positive terminal of the battery.
Modern voltage regulation systems
If the voltage regulator relay for the generator of a Chinese scooter is two-level, then more advanced devices are used on expensive cars. Multilevel control systems can contain 3, 4, 5 or more additional resistances. There are also tracking automatic control systems. In some designs, you can refuse to use additional resistances.
Instead, the frequency of operation of the electronic key increases. It is simply impossible to use circuits with electromagnetic relays in servo control systems. One of the latest developments is a multi-level control system that uses frequency modulation. In such designs, additional resistances are required, which are used to control logic elements.
How to check a separate voltage regulator on a generator
Voltage regulators installed separately from the generator can be installed on older car models. Failure of such parts can also lead to overcharging or missing charge of the battery, so you should check it at the first suspicion of non-standard operation of this element.
Checking the generator voltage regulator relay type 591 3702 01
The principle of checking the regulator type 591 3702 01 is identical to other devices of this type. You will also need to connect the products to a DC source and, by changing the output voltage values on the power supply, set the moment when the control lamp turns off.
A design feature of the type 591 3702 01 regulator is the output part, which has contacts designated “67” and “15”. Contact “67” is the “minus” of the system, so the corresponding wire from the power source, which is connected in series with the incandescent lamp, should be connected to it. Also, the negative contact should be connected to the “ground” of the regulator (metal mount). Contact “15” is the plus of the device, so the positive conductor should be connected to it.
The device is checked according to the standard procedure. First, the operating voltage is applied at which the light bulb should light. When the maximum possible voltage (14.5 V) is exceeded, the electric current in the circuit disappears.
More precisely, the relay-regulator type 591 3702 01 can be checked on a special diagnostic stand. This installation has a generator, battery and voltmeter. The regulator is connected on the stand in the same way as when installed on a car. After starting the stand, adjusting the rotation of the generator ensures that the voltage exceeds the cut-off threshold (14.5 V). The device shutdown is recorded by a voltmeter.
If the relay regulator does not turn off the voltage supply when a critical level is reached or there is no electric current immediately after starting the generator, then you will need to replace the relay regulator type 591 3702 01.
How to check a three-level voltage regulator relay
Instead of a standard relay-regulator, a three-level relay can be installed on cars. Such devices are more advanced and reliable. The difference between three-level relays and “chocolate bars” is the ability to arbitrarily set the cutoff voltage using the built-in regulator.
Testing a three-level relay is carried out according to the standard scheme, when an adjustable source of electric current and a test lamp are connected to the relay. When performing the test, only the previously set cut-off voltage limits should be taken into account. That is, if, using manual adjustment, the shutdown moment was set at 14.7 V, then at this voltage the disappearance of the electric current will be the norm.
Generator check
If an overcharge of the battery can be caused by a malfunction of the relay-regulator, then if the battery is undercharged, the part may be completely serviceable. Various generator breakdowns can cause a permanent or temporary lack of electrical current to fully restore the battery. If the car has a separate relay-regulator, then this part can be easily excluded from the electrical circuit and thus ensure that the generator is working properly. The diagnostic operation is performed with the engine running as follows:
- Disconnect the wires from the relay regulator (pins 15 and 67).
- Instead of a relay regulator, a 12 V incandescent lamp should be connected to the circuit.
- Disconnect the positive cable from the battery while the engine is running.
If the engine continues to run when the positive terminal is disconnected, then the car’s generator is working. Otherwise, you should check this part and all additional elements involved in the transmission of electrical energy.
How to remove the relay regulator
Removing the generator voltage regulator relay (“Lanos” or domestic “nine” is not important) is quite simple. It is worth noting that when replacing the voltage regulator, you only need one tool - a flat-head or Phillips screwdriver. There is no need to remove the generator or the belt and its drive. Most of the devices are located on the back cover of the generator, and are combined into a single unit with a brush mechanism. The most common breakdowns occur in several cases.
Firstly, when completely erasing the graphite brushes. Secondly, in case of breakdown of a semiconductor element. How to check the regulator will be discussed below. When removing, you will need to disconnect the battery. Disconnect the wire that connects the voltage regulator to the generator output. By unscrewing both mounting bolts, you can pull out the device body. But the voltage regulator relay for the VAZ 2101 generator has an outdated design - it is mounted in the engine compartment, separately from the brush assembly.
Device check
The relay-regulator of the voltage of the VAZ 2106 generator, “kopecks”, and foreign cars is checked equally. As soon as you remove it, look at the brushes - they should be more than 5 millimeters long. If this parameter is different, the device must be replaced. To carry out diagnostics, you will need a constant voltage source. It would be desirable to be able to change the output characteristic. You can use a battery and a couple of AA batteries as a power source. You also need a lamp, it must run on 12 Volts. You can use a voltmeter instead. Connect the plus from the power supply to the voltage regulator connector.
Accordingly, connect the negative contact to the common plate of the device. Connect a light bulb or voltmeter to the brushes. In this state, voltage should be present between the brushes if 12-13 Volts are supplied to the input. But if you supply more than 15 Volts to the input, there should be no voltage between the brushes. This is a sign that the device is working properly. And it doesn’t matter at all whether the voltage regulator relay of the VAZ 2107 generator or another car is diagnosed. If the control lamp lights up at any voltage value or does not light up at all, it means that there is a malfunction of the unit.
Which is better: stabilizer vs relay
Often, instead of connecting a control relay in the panel, electricians recommend installing a voltage stabilizer in the house. In some cases this may be justified. However, there are a number of nuances that must be remembered when choosing one or another option for protecting electrical appliances.
In terms of functionality, the stabilizer not only equalizes the voltage, but also turns off when the voltage is too high. A voltage relay is an exclusively protective automatic device. It seems that the first includes the functions of the second.
But compared to the RKN stabilizer:
- more expensive and noisy;
- more inert during sudden changes;
- does not have the ability to adjust parameters;
- takes up much more space.
When the input voltage is reduced so that the output of the stabilizer has the required indicators, it begins to “draw” more current from the network. And this is a direct path to wiring burnout if it was not originally designed for this.
The second main disadvantage of the stabilizer in comparison with the control relay is its inability to intercept a sharp voltage surge when the zero is broken.
Literally half a second with 350-380 W in the outlet is enough for all the equipment in the house to burn out. But most stabilizers are not able to adapt to such changes and pass high voltage, turning off only 1-2 seconds after the start of the surge.
In addition to stabilizers and relays, overvoltage and undervoltage releases can also be used to protect the line from voltage surges in the network. But they have a longer response time compared to the RLV. Plus, they do not turn the power back on automatically; their operation is more like an RCD.
After a power outage, these releases will have to be reset manually.
conclusions
In the electrical system of a car, the voltage regulator relay of the Bosch generator (as, indeed, of any other company) plays a very important role. Monitor its condition as often as possible and check for damage and defects. Cases of failure of such a device are not uncommon. In this case, in the best case, the battery will be discharged. And in the worst case, the supply voltage in the on-board network may increase. This will lead to the failure of most electricity consumers. In addition, the generator itself may fail. And its repair will cost a tidy sum, and considering that the battery will fail very quickly, the costs will be astronomical. It is also worth noting that the Bosch generator voltage regulator relay is one of the leaders in sales. It has high reliability and durability, and its characteristics are as stable as possible.
FakeHeader
Comments 18
Yesterday, too, I plugged in the limit switches, but threw out the regulator; autostart doesn’t work with it.
Autostart works for me so far
Well then, I’ve been racking my brains for almost a year about where the autostart went. Everything seems to be normal, but it won’t start.
The company that produces this regulator is called energomash www.12v.ru/site.xp/054053053124050049057124.html And the electrician’s advice is probably their advertising slogan))))
Perhaps, I don't argue
I don’t argue with the rules about the limit switches, but I won’t support the regulator; I almost burned out on it once, if you put it in Priorogen and forget the problem about the charge.
tell me in more detail, if not difficult)
I don’t argue with the rules about the limit switches, but I won’t support the regulator; I almost burned out on it once, if you put it in Priorogen and forget the problem about the charge.
I don’t argue, it’s better and more reliable to install a Bosch 2170-3701010-13 generator for 5000-6000 rubles than a three-level one for 300-500 rubles))))
Well, I have a gene from a Priora, but not a Bosch, but a Kzate, it seems like it costs something in the region of 4-4.5 rubles, you can get a ruble for 2 rubles. These regulators are dangerous. I remember once seeing a box with them on an electrician’s shelf that says they can be sharply strained raise it high and burn anything. In my case, the brains burned out and the generator overheated, and it’s still lying in the garage, burnt.
Unread message OldFeld » Wed Jun 03, 2009 16:07:28
Unread message Mr_Ice » Wed Jun 03, 2009 17:53:35
Unread message SMSha » Wed Jun 03, 2009 18:40:50
There was PARADISE in the USSR - wherever you look, there was a DISTRICT council, a DISTRICT executive committee, a DISTRICT committee, and so on. And in this state, wherever you spit, there is an Administration.
All current life in three sentences: On a warm and sunny May day on the high bank of the river, a team of workers was building a cowshed. They worked fervently, cheerfully, with fire and swearing. It turned out shitty.
Unread message Mr_Ice » Wed Jun 03, 2009 18:45:04
Unread message SMSha » Wed Jun 03, 2009 19:26:04
There was PARADISE in the USSR - wherever you look, there was a DISTRICT council, a DISTRICT executive committee, a DISTRICT committee, and so on. And in this state, wherever you spit, there is an Administration.
All current life in three sentences: On a warm and sunny May day on the high bank of the river, a team of workers was building a cowshed. They worked fervently, cheerfully, with fire and swearing. It turned out shitty.
Unread message Mr_Ice » Wed Jun 03, 2009 19:39:03
Unread message OldFeld » Wed Jun 03, 2009 21:50:40
That’s exactly what at idle when starting the engine - 14.2 (I look at the BC) Then, as the engine warms up, thermal compensation is triggered on the standard voltage regulator and already (without consumers) - 13.9-13.8 If it’s hot outside, you can see it on the BC and 13.7 . As consumers are connected, the voltage STILL drops. I saw the number in traffic jams up to 12.8. It's annoying. it will be too small, IMHO
And the regulators (like the one I bought) support strictly 14.2 (in the middle position of the switch) At least, that’s what people who use them write. That is, no matter how many consumers you turn on, they automatically raise the voltage to 14.2 (option in summer 13.6 or winter 14.7). This is, in fact, the point of using them.
Unread message from Olezhek » Thu Jun 04, 2009 5:53:17 AM
People believe nothing so firmly as what they know least about, and no one speaks with such self-confidence as writers of all sorts of fables - for example, astrologers, fortune tellers, palmists. Religion, superstitions. Michel Montaigne
Unread message SMSha » Thu Jun 04, 2009 6:09:48 AM
Remote controller
ATTENTION! A completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption has been found! Don't believe me? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also didn’t believe it until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline! Read more"
This often happens to drivers. The brushes of the generating device burn out. The regulator is built in along with the brushes. We have to change everything together. And here’s some advice from experts: it’s better to install an external regulator than a built-in one. The models released recently have not been praised very much.
Okay, do you think I’ll install an external one, but how do I connect it? It turns out that there is a convenient scheme that makes it easy to carry out all this modernization.
Some important points:
- do not confuse the chips on the regulator numbered 67 and 15 (the first should be connected to the generating device, and the second should go to the fuses);
This is what the connection diagram looks like
In the lower photo we see a diagram that shows the connection of the already built-in regulator relay.
It is suitable for connecting to “fives”, “sevens”, VAZ 2104, if the PG is installed from a VAZ “kopek”. As you can see, the remote-type regulator relay is connected via two terminals. Pin 15 goes to the fuse.
The second pin 67 is connected to the generator. The wire is connected to the brush chip.
Also, the remote-type relay must be connected to ground - any part of the body.
A relay is nothing more than a switch that serves to close and disconnect individual zones of an electrical circuit that occur at specific electrical values. A machine relay is otherwise called a load voltage switch, and this is 100 percent true. When the power supply unit, fan or starter consumes more current than necessary, the relay trips.
The relay consists of an electric type magnet, an armature and a switch. In this case, the electromagnet is a cable twisted around an inductor with a magnetic rod, and the armature is a special plate that controls the contacts.
As soon as electrical voltage passes through the magnet winding, an electric field is created. A special pusher presses the armature against the core and, thereby, the contacts switch.
Attention. There are two types of relays used on VAZ cars. This is a non-contact relay-regulator and MER (electric). It is the diagram of the last relay that is shown in the picture below.
The non-contact relay or NERR is a fairly new unit that does not require any additional adjustments or regulation. As for the MED, this is an old-style device, the production of which has currently been suspended.
So, the BRN or built-in regulator is a device consisting of a microcircuit, a transistor and a housing with brushes. If the built-in regulator fails, it is replaced with a new one, or an external one is installed.
The external regulator is easy to install if you strictly follow the instructions.
Modernization involves dismantling and disassembling the generating device.
GU or generator
The generator in any automotive electrical circuit performs the dominant functions. The normal functioning and operation of the machine depends on it. Reliable PG is installed in all foreign cars and models of the domestic automobile industry.
For example, a GU is placed on the “six”, the charge of which satisfies the need for electricity of any standard component. If you do not overload the generating device of the “six”, then the car is capable of driving many, many more kilometers. However, it is important to carry out preventive procedures in a timely manner - monitor the belt tension and the condition of the brushes.
The GU is connected according to the classical scheme. Using the VAZ 2106 generator as an example, let’s consider its functioning. This GU is marked as G-221. It is an AC synchronous electric machine with ELMG excitation. A VB (rectifier) with 6 diodes is built inside the GU.
| 1 | generator rotor winding |
| 2 | generator |
| 3 | generator stator winding |
| 4 | generator rectifier |
| 5 | accumulator battery |
| 6 | ignition switch |
| 7 | battery charge indicator lamp |
| 8 | battery warning light relay |
| 9 | fuse box VAZ -2106 |
| 10 | throttle |
| 11 | temperature compensation resistor |
| 12 | additional resistors |
| 13 | voltage regulator |
A simple and understandable scheme that does not require any subtleties or specific knowledge. On the “six” the PG is located on the engine on the right. It is attached to the tension bar with a nut and to the bracket with its claws.
As you can see, the diagram shows an external regulator. It is marked with the number 13. The generator is indicated with the number 2, the fuse box is indicated with the number 9.
Removing and installing the voltage regulator
Replacing the external voltage regulator VAZ 2101-2106
1) Using the “8” socket, unscrew the two nuts and remove the regulator.
2) Disconnect the two wires.
3) Attach the new regulator to the mudguard and connect the wires: orange to terminal “15”, and gray to terminal “67”.
Voltage regulator relay connection diagram
ATTENTION! Before starting the engine, make sure that the contact between the voltage regulator housing and the vehicle ground is reliable, and that the wires to terminals “15” and “67” are connected correctly.
Issues of selection, diagnostics and replacement of voltage relay regulators
Various malfunctions can occur in relay regulators, which in most cases are manifested by a lack of battery charging current and, on the contrary, an excessive battery charging current. The simplest check of the regulator can be carried out using a voltmeter - just start the engine and let it run for 10-15 minutes at a frequency of 2500-3000 rpm and with the headlights on. Then, without reducing the speed and without turning off the headlights, measure the voltage at the battery terminals - it should be 14.1-14.3 volts (twice as high for 24-volt ones). If the voltage is significantly lower or higher, then this is a reason to check the generator, and if it is in order, replace the regulator.
The replacement should be a relay-regulator of the same type and model that was installed previously
You especially need to pay attention to the order in which the regulator is connected to the on-board network (to which terminals of the generator and other elements), as well as to the supply voltage and currents. Replacement of the part must be carried out according to the instructions; work can only be carried out with the engine stopped and the terminal removed from the battery
If all recommendations are followed and the regulator is selected correctly, it will immediately begin to work, ensuring the normal functioning of the electrical system.
