For registration of entry to a suburban area, sliding gates are perhaps the best solution. Their main design feature is that the sash moves to the side when opening, parallel to the plane of the opening, which allows the entry area not to be vacated, since there is no need to swing the sash open. Sliding gates are relatively easy to automate, thereby significantly increasing comfort. And, in addition, today such a structure can be assembled and installed independently, even without being a specialist installer.
You may object: “But there, you’ll probably have to use welding, and I don’t even know how to do it!” Of course, you will have to “cook” a little, and pour a little concrete, and even remember the school geometry course devoted to right angles. But, with the modern level of information availability, finding detailed instructions and the necessary arsenal of components and tools is not difficult. But the experience gained will allow you not only to be proud of yourself, but also to develop new skills.
In our article today we will talk about how to assemble and install sliding gates yourself, what tools and components you will need for this and where to look for them.
Preparing for installation of sliding gates
you need to make a plan.
All this needs to be done more to save time, so that later you just don’t have to run to the store to buy the necessary materials.
Mandatory items of the plan must include:
- data on the terrain for installing the gate (soil freezing depth);
- metal fittings in a complete set;
- necessary tools;
- material for covering the frame.
Particular care must be taken in selecting not only tools, but also components, because the life of the sliding system will directly depend on their quality. Typically, parts are selected to comply with the load parameters so that the gate simply does not sag in the future.
All mechanisms that are included in the design of the sliding system are attached only using electric welding, and here the help of specialists may be required. If you have no experience in operating a welding machine, then it is better not to take on this part of the work.
It is also important to understand that when installing a gate, you need to consider how much space you need to leave, because the gate leaf extends into the inner part of the yard. The canvas should completely go under the wall.
Everything needs to be calculated in advance, because due to the use of electric welding, the gate system becomes non-removable and after its installation it will no longer be possible to fix anything.
It is important to pay attention to the fact that sliding gates can operate from several types of connection, so you need to decide on the best option from the very beginning. There is an option to connect the system to an electric drive, but many modern models also provide connection to an alarm system, which is much simpler and safer
List of components
The list is compiled in Excel, with links for examples. You will need to purchase in accordance with the list. You may need to select analogues. We need an analysis of quality, parameters and functionality for each item.
List of components for assembling the gate control circuit
If, after reading the above, a clear picture has formed in your head, then it makes sense to read further.
How is automation installed?
First, we select a place to install the electric drive. We will need the mounting base included in the kit. We install the drive on it. Then we install it all on the channel between the carriages. Then we set the gate automation to the operating position to determine the location for installing the drive. You should place the electric drive on the rack with teeth, trace, calculate where you need to direct the drive so that the rack with teeth is located in the middle of the gear and secured to the profile pipe on the outer frame.
The place has been calculated. We put all the other installation equipment on it and weld it around the perimeter. Sometimes the drive needs to be raised for installation a few cm higher. To do this, take a profile pipe and weld the drive to it. We take the required pipe size (40x20, 50x50, 60x30, etc.). After installing the channel on the mounting base, we weld the electric drive to it and secure it with bolts.
And now to the instructions
Next, we’ll move away from the lyrics and tell you more about installing automatics for sliding gates. You will need equipment and high-quality materials. Let's list what should be included in the kit:
- Electronic drive for sliding gates.
- Rake with teeth.
- Remote controls.
- Safety elements.
- The lamp is a “signal”.
What other equipment is needed:
- Welding.
- Drill and drill bits for metal.
- Electric drives for power supply.
- Drives for connecting safety elements
- Drives for connecting a signal lamp.
You should have all this equipment available if you installed sliding gates with your own hands. Now let's talk about installing automation. You will need a channel with two strong carriages. An electric drive will be installed on the channel.
Attaching the upper and lower catchers
Catcher
To secure the lower and upper catcher, you need to close the gate all the way. Mark on the post where your gate frame ends. In this place, above and below, you need to secure the mortgages to which the catchers will be attached. Depending on the mortgages, they can be secured by welding or bolting.
The catchers will soften the contact of the gate frame with the support rollers, and also minimize the loosening of the structure in strong winds. The lower catcher also serves to reduce sagging of the frame, which may appear after long-term operation of the gate. Finally, check that your gate is installed correctly. Open and close them several times, make sure they move smoothly and evenly.
Stage four. Installation of the structure and finishing of the canvas
Before installing a sliding gate, make sure that the opening is sized to fit the gate and that there is enough space for the sliding gate and that there are no obstructions.
Attention! Gates can only be installed after the foundation has completely hardened.
Sequence of actions for installing self-supporting sliding gates:
1. Place the adjusting supports on the mounting plate (channel). The distance L between the centers of the supports should be approximately 35-40% of the opening width.
For ROLTEK components it can be calculated using the formula
For sliding gates, the opening is four meters long and weighs up to 350 kg. (on the ROLTEK MICRO 6, DACHA 6 system) or with a weight of up to 500 ROLTEK ECO 6, the calculation of distances is given below
Note: an end roller is mounted in front of the sash; its installation requires space. If the roller trolley is placed close to the opening, then in the “open” position the sash will not completely clear the opening.
Using adjusting stands will allow you to correct possible installation errors without damaging the roller carriages. Sliding gates mounted on stands can be adjusted horizontally and vertically. If the foundation moves during use, the gate will be easy to level.
The adjustment stands must be secured by welding. Roller carriages are put on them, the door leaf is rolled up and final adjustments are made to the height and trajectory of movement.
Further:
- remove the gate from the roller carriages
- unscrew the roller carriages from the stands
- We scald the stand along the contour, attaching it to the mortgage, screw the roller carriages onto the stands
- roll up the canvas so that the gate is closed. Using a level and a wrench, we adjust the final position of the gate. Important! Horizontal adjustments must be made in the closed state. As a result of the adjustments made, the blade should move without effort.
- From the rollback side in front of the gate, install the end roller and tighten the fastening bolts
- Install a channel on the receiving post to attach the lower and upper traps. The channel (120 mm wide) is welded to the embedded parts. Instead, you can use a 60*40 mm profile pipe or a special reinforced bracket (ROLTEC accessories)
Attention! Traps need to be installed after the canvas is completely ready (loaded). Otherwise, their position will need to be adjusted after finishing the gate.
- Weld the upper and lower traps onto the channel, determining their position when the gate leaf arrives in place. The lower trap must be adjusted so that when closing, the sash hits it with the end roller and rises 10 mm.
- Weld the upper stop of the sash to the post behind which the leaf rolls. Adjust the position of the door leaf and the gap between the gate leaf and the rollers against lateral swings. Tighten the rollers.
Seal the gate leaf guide with a plug.
The sheathing of a fabric of this design can be made of any material up to 20 mm thick. Consider the option of finishing with a profile sheet. Corrugated sheeting of the required length can be ordered at the factory so that it fits well into the frame; its length should be taken 2 mm less than the internal dimensions of the frame. The sheets are sequentially inserted into the frame and fastened with metal screws or rivets. If the last sheet does not fit, it is cut to width.
Installation of limit switches
They need to be bolted to the end rail. Switches can be mechanical or magnetic. Magnetic ones work even during harsh weather conditions. A magnet is mounted on the rack and when it passes a certain point in the gate, it stops. In this case, the switches need to be divided into left and right - one with a plus sign, and the second with a minus sign.
It is best to configure and install magnetic switches at a distance (minimum 1 m). Installing mechanical limit switches for sliding gates is actually very simple. They work using an elementary spring.
Securing the rack
The gate must be completely open; install a rack and pinion in the middle of the drive. Keep in mind that to secure the limit switches you need to leave a little bit of rack with teeth. Next, we weld the slats with teeth to the profile pipe. We stretch the canvas by the strip. After installing the next rail, we perform the same procedure. Please note that there should be no gaps between the joints. One “tooth” should come out. All fastening elements for automatic sliding gates must be welded again. Then we install a 1mm gap between the drive and the gear.
Installation of roller trolleys to the channel
Installation of roller carts
Roller carts can be called the most important mechanism, since they must withstand the load of the entire structure, so they should be attached to the channel as securely as possible. The plates for fastening the rollers must be welded to the channel. Everything is done as evenly as possible and in the same plane so that the gate moves freely. To align them exactly, you can use a laser pointer or a stretched cord. Another option is to draw a parallel line on the foundation, which will be a tangent line to the edge of the plate. The plates should be welded in the middle of the channel. To do this, step back 15 cm from the edge, closer to the opening and fix the first plate. The second plate is attached 10 cm from the opposite edge.
Installed roller support
Now you need to fix the roller carts to the plate. They are usually connected using bolts and nuts. You need to tighten them securely and install the gate. Check the smooth running, take control measurements and adjust the position of the roller supports to align the gate perfectly level. To do this, you can use a cord, which must be pulled along the gate opening line, at a distance of 20 cm from the surface and 3 cm from the second post. The cord will serve as a guide to help you align the gate perfectly straight.
Tips for use
After installing automation on swing gates, all significant conditions for automatic systems can be found in the manufacturer’s assembly drawing.
For long-term operation of the automation, carefully consider the characteristics and select a kit that will exactly match the purpose of the gate.
An important condition for long-term service is the absence of barriers and interference in the space in front of the gate. Suitable automation is selected based on the opening width of one leaf
For example, for a value of 1.5 m, a linear drive is suitable; for the second leaf, a similar kit is purchased
Suitable automation is selected based on the opening width of one leaf. For example, for a value of 1.5 m, a linear drive is suitable; for the second leaf, a similar kit is purchased.
The best way to protect the gate from damage is lubrication and preventive inspection of the system. It is still not recommended to make efforts if the mechanisms are jammed for some reason.
You can repair the automation yourself if you installed it yourself. Otherwise, it is better to contact specialists.
You can watch about installing automation for swing gates in this video.
Preparing drive mounting locations
They are mounted on poles. If they are metal, then there will be no special problems. It is enough to weld the brackets, and the issue of reliable fixation of the mechanisms is resolved. But what about brick supports? Arranging embeds to which a channel can be attached by welding is just one of the options. In principle, it’s not difficult to figure out. For example, do this.
The mounting height of gate control mechanisms is an important issue. Firstly, they must be located strictly symmetrically, at the same level relative to the ground. Secondly, linear drives are leveled, since their effective operation in opening the gate outward is only possible when installed horizontally. If the sashes are heavy, then it is advisable to mount the drives so that they are located in their center (in the vertical plane). Fourthly, the gate opening after fastening with the mechanism will narrow somewhat, and this also must be taken into account.
It is advisable to connect the motor, as already indicated, from a step-down transformer. A thermal relay should be included in the power circuit. This circuit element will protect the winding from overheating in critical situations, especially in winter. For example, if the gate leaves become heavily icy, which will lead to an increase in their weight.
Wiring
It is mounted only in a protective “shell” - corrugation, cable channels. For connection, cables with cores of 1.5 square meters are recommended, and at least 4 of them must be connected to the drive (at least 1 as a reserve in case of a break in one of the lines). If you approach the issue of electrical installation rationally, then individual calculations are needed for each direction, primarily in accordance with power consumption. This applies to cases when the arrangement of the automation system is made from individual elements.
For a ready-made kit, all circuit parameters are indicated in the instructions, therefore, doing it yourself is easier.
Electronics
It is clear that no one will engage in its independent construction. Maybe radio amateurs, but they don’t need any hints. Specialized stores sell both control units (from 2,680 rubles) and key fobs (from 1,150 rubles). For a family, 2–3 pieces of the latter are enough.
The author gave basic recommendations for installing automation with your own hands, taking into account the fact that the gate opens outward, and they are quite detailed. And in what configuration to install the system, the characteristics of all elements (for example, engine power) - the reader will have to determine this on his own. Much depends on the weight of the doors, their dimensions, the wind rose at the location of the object and a number of other factors. Good luck!
Installing the top clamp
Upper clamp
To prevent the gate from moving when the gate moves, a latch or guide is installed on top of the post. It will stop the gate and prevent it from swinging in strong winds. To do this, holes for fastenings should be marked on the support post. Make sure to measure everything correctly so that the top frame can fit into the clamp without obstruction.
A bracket must be installed on the pole to secure the guide. If you will be fixing it in concrete or brick, use anchors with a pin diameter of 10 mm. If you are attaching it to metal, then special screws will do. If welding is used, the rollers must be removed.
After securing the fastener, check it. The gate should move smoothly, remain vertical, and the rollers should fit tightly around it.
Peculiarities
Installation of automated swing gates is considered an extremely complex undertaking, for which extreme precision, accuracy and appropriate qualifications are important. Many companies sell these products, offering ready-made products. If you have a sufficient amount of money, it is better to purchase an electric drive from a specialized manufacturer rather than making a homemade device.
If installing shutters is an easy task that every person can handle, then automation for swing gates must be installed in compliance with numerous requirements and conditions.
The drive for automated swing gates has features that must be taken into account during installation:
- the location of the valves relative to the pillar;
- gate opening principle. There is a design with opening inward or outward;
- use of supports for the sashes if the system device is used without a limit switch.
If you decide to neglect any of these indicators, in the future the fastening will detach from the doors or the electric motor may fail. Gate automation contains several electric drives, which operate using a special board. This solution reduces the chances of successful installation of automation by a person without appropriate qualifications.
The design of swing gates is characterized by a long service life, durability and versatility. The mechanism is characterized by low maintenance and simplicity, and the gate opens at a speed of up to 15 seconds. During installation, it should be taken into account that even minor obstacles are not allowed in the gate opening area. When colliding with a barrier, the mechanism may jam. Therefore, you need to take care of the cleanliness of the site.
To eliminate the occurrence of malfunctions, timely preventive maintenance will be required. Do not forget to lubricate all necessary parts and do not use force when opening or closing the doors.
Gate elements and components
Elements and components
Basically, with everything you need to get the job done, you should have no problem installing your gate. You don’t need particularly deep knowledge in construction, just basic knowledge, materials and following the recommendations of experts.
For the work you will need consumables, but the main and important part of the elements is the fittings responsible for the movement of the gate. It consists of:
- roller trolley or carriage (2 pcs.);
- lower and upper catcher;
- U-shaped beam guide;
- gear rack;
- removable end roller;
- top lock with rollers;
- plates for fixing the roller trolley.
Pay attention to quality
When choosing high-quality accessories, pay attention to trusted manufacturers, taking into account the price and quality of the products. You can also seek help from professionals who will help you choose the best option.
It is much easier to buy a ready-made gate kit with all the necessary elements, which you only need to assemble and install in place. It contains special installation instructions, thanks to which you can easily do all the necessary work.
Automation instructions
In order to make sliding gates automatic, you need to prepare tools and purchase an automation kit, which usually includes:
- Electric sliding gate drive;
- Rack;
- Safety components - photocells and warning light;
- Bolts and other fasteners;
- Remote control.
The following tools and materials are also required:
- Welding machine;
- To supply power to the electric drive, a wire with a cross-section of 2X1.5 mm or 2X2 mm, for photocells - two wires 4X0.5 mm and 2X0.5 mm, for a signal lamp - a 220V wire 2X0.5 mm.
- Drill, set of metal drills, screws, etc.
Expert opinion
Viktor Pavlovich Strebizh, lighting and electrical expert
Any questions ask me, I will help!
The main difficulty with this option is the need to use a tensioner, without which the belt will sag. If there is something you don’t understand, write to me!
Preparing the embedded element
Mortgage
In order to make an embedded element, you will need:
- channel 18–20 cm wide (it can be replaced with a corner of the same dimensions);
- reinforcement Ø 12–15 mm;
- welding machine.
Installation of embed
The filling element is a structure made of channel and reinforcement, which in the future will be installed in the trench and will be concreted. Take a metal channel and cut it to the length of the entire trench. If it is 2 m, then the channel should be 2 m long. After that, reinforcement must be welded to it to form a metal frame. The length of the reinforcement bars must be 5–10 cm greater than the depth of the trench so that it can be sunk into the ground. How exactly you will weld the reinforcement depends on you, there are no restrictions here, it can be welded in increments of 15 cm. The main thing is that the frame is strong and has a vertical base that is connected by jumpers.
Once the frame is ready, it can be installed in the trench. But before this, the bottom of the trench should be filled with sand or small crushed stone and compacted, making a cushion for the foundation 5 cm high. Sink the reinforcement so that the surface of the channel is flush with the road surface. Using a building level, align the frame perfectly level. If there is a strong distortion on any side, remove the frame and add sand to that place. If the mortgage is not level, it will prevent the gate from moving correctly.
Level with the road
Materials, tools for installation
Gates made of sandwich panels
Independent production and installation of swing gates with automation is made from the following materials:
- professional pipes with a cross section of 60x30 mm and 40x30 mm;
- channel or profile pipe with a cross-section of 10x10 cm;
- decorative cladding - corrugated board, wood, sandwich panels;
- brick for racks;
- reinforcement 14 mm in diameter;
- electrodes for welding parts of a structure;
- crushed stone, cement and sand for preparing the solution;
- primer with anti-corrosion properties, alkyd enamel and solvent;
- insulating PVC pipes;
- electrical wire with three cores for powering the automation.
To perform the work, you will also need a ruler, a level, a screwdriver or riveter, an angle grinder, a welding machine, and a special brush for metal surfaces. To dig trenches under the poles - a shovel, to protect the electrical part - an RCD. It is better to paint the product with a paint brush. You can use an indicator screwdriver to check the voltage.
Pouring the foundation
Formwork is installed and poured
Once you have laid the wiring, the embedded element can be filled with concrete mixture. For this you will need M400 cement, sand and crushed stone. The proportions are as follows: for 1 kg of cement you need 3 kg of sand and 4–5 kg of crushed stone. Water should make up half the weight of all ingredients. It turns out:
1+3+4=8
8/2=4
The total is 4 liters of water per 1 kg of cement, 3 kg of sand and 4 kg of crushed stone. Mix the required amount of solution and fill the trench
It is important that the surface of the channel is not completely concreted; the concrete must be at its level. Now the foundation needs to be left to dry
This will take 3–5 days, during which it will get stronger and be reliable enough for further work.
Transmission via drive roller
There is another type of electric drive in which the main task is performed by a pressure roller. This kind of mechanism is more difficult to install yourself, but at the same time it is convenient in that it does not require placing additional accessories on the gate. In addition, such a mechanism is not subject to contamination and the formation of ice deposits.
The operating principle of the pressure roller consists of several points:
- A roller protected by a rubber tire is pressed against the outer wall of the rail guide.
- The force is provided by the compression force of the spring, which is installed on the pusher pin
- The shaft axes are fixed to the shelves of the U-shaped bracket.
To compensate for the pressure created by the rotating wheel on the door leaf, two identical wheels are attached on the opposite side of the rail guide.
Tips for choosing parts for constructing a pinch roller:
- You should choose wheels only those with a metal base and bearings covered with a casing.
- The load pressure level should be 300-360 kg.
- The pusher springs must have a force of at least 3.5-4 kN, and it is important that it is not higher than the load-bearing capacity of the wheels.
- The V-belt drive provides for securing the pulley to the base of the wheel using 3 M12 studs and makes it possible to use a pair of open gears if they can be securely fastened.
- The rotating wheel can be installed on the shaft of the converter or motor by first removing the bearings from the base of the wheel. In this case, it is unacceptable for the tension mechanism to act on the axial shaft of the wheel, since this will immediately lead to breakdown. The impact force should be directed to the base of the transducer body, freely mounted in the slots of the frame.
In addition, it is necessary to take into account the load on the front bearing of the transmission mechanism, which should be less than the clamping force of the springs.
Automation installation sequence
If you purchased not only a gate drive (the motor itself with a gearbox and gear assembly), but also a set of additional automation (photo sensors, signal lamp, additional antenna), then the automation is installed first and only then the drive - since all the wires are from auxiliary devices are brought out from the bottom up - from underground through the drive under the drive and then to the drive terminal blocks.
- First of all, we fix the rack at the bottom of the door leaf. At this stage, the height of its attachment is not very important. Do not worry that the drive gear may not engage the rack, since you can subsequently adjust the height of the drive itself (along with the gear) above its base using four adjusting screws.
- To attach the photocells, we need to lay a two-core wire between the internal posts of the sliding gate. If there are none, then I recommend digging in low additional posts on the side of the yard and attaching photocells to them. Can it be mounted on external poles? It is possible, but it is better to do it from the side of the courtyard for anti-vandal reasons. In our case, we already had internal pillars and we needed to install photo sensors on them and connect them with hidden wiring, for this it is necessary: at a height of 50 cm from the ground, drill holes in both pillars directed inside the gate opening; dig a trench connecting both poles and lay a two-core wire in it in a case made of technical polyethylene pipe; gain access to the inside of the pipe from its lower end - for hidden wiring entry.
- We ran the wire underground, brought its ends up, first inside the pillars, then brought them out through the drilled holes. Now we begin the installation of photo sensors. In this case, the photocells must first be fixed to the pole and only then can they be switched. Do not cut off the excess wire at the root! It is better to subsequently tuck the excess inside the pillar.
- We install a signal lamp and a remote additional antenna (if available). To do this, take the wires according to the table “ Typology of cables and their minimum cross-sections
", published above. As a rule, this is a coaxial cable with a characteristic impedance of 50 Ohms for the antenna and a two-core wire with a cross-section of 2x1.0 mm for the signal lamp. The length of the wires is chosen so that it is enough to pass them from top to bottom inside the pole located closest to the others to the installation site of the drive itself. Remembering about vandals, we again recommend installing the signal lamp and antenna on an internal pole (if there is one), and not on an external one. If there is only one pole, mount it on it or weld a platform to it. To mount a signal lamp on the top end of a post, the post must be welded on top with a steel plate (rather than plugged with a plastic plug). The base of the lamp is installed on a flat surface and secured to it using self-tapping screws. Accordingly, it cannot be secured to the unwelded end of a hollow pipe. Many people simply weld a platform to the pipe (post).
- The heart of the entire system is the gate drive, so switching of all auxiliary devices is carried out on terminal groups installed on the drive. In this regard, we now need to connect all the wiring to the drive. All wiring going to the drive is connected to it in a hidden way - from below. To do this, there are holes in the base of the drive, and in the drive itself there is a small cable channel in order to pass all the wires through the drive, from bottom to top, to the terminal groups. Taking into account the above, we need to make a corresponding hole in the steel embed (cut using an angle grinder). Then, using a hammer drill, punch a channel passing through the hole in the embed down and to the side - into the trench for the drive.
- We weld the base of the gate drive to the mortgage using electric welding, and then adjust the height of the drive motor above its base using four adjusting screws. It is necessary to ensure that the drive gear engages with the rack (but there should be a small gap between the gear and rack!).
Do-it-yourself installation of automatic swing gates
Independent creation of swing gates equipped with automation occurs in stages.
Drafting
Hanging the canvas before painting
The drawing, which shows the dimensions, appearance and features of the automation, is drawn up on paper by hand or in a special program.
Fabrication
According to the dimensions of the product, markings are made on the base material, taking into account the dimensions of the sashes and the gap between them. The material can be corrugated sheet or steel. For the stiffeners you will need a professional pipe. The elements are cut on a machine and connected with a welding machine.
Welding the reinforcing frame
Rectangular frames are connected with rigid jumpers and sheathed. Assembly is carried out on a flat surface, the geometry of the valves is carefully checked.
Need for frame
Gate automation
There is no need for a structure at the entrance - the gates are fixed on the posts with canopies. If there is a frame, its parameters are calculated and the lines are diagonal and parallel.
Construction of supports
After measuring the opening, marks are set and holes are dug along them, the bottom of which is filled with crushed stone. The columns are leveled and filled with concrete mixture.
Gate installation
Canopies and balls are used to secure the canvas. The sashes are placed in the contour of the frame, the alignment is checked and they are fastened to the canopies by welding. Frameless products are attached with clamps and reinforced by welding.
Drive installation
The electric drive is installed on the gate upon completion of the door leaf installation process. After this, the power supply option is selected and the connection is made according to the diagram. Equipment with wires is hidden in a mounting box. At the final stage, the system is checked.
Automatic gates are controlled remotely, which increases the comfort of living on the site. If you have the knowledge and skills to work with electrical appliances, you can not buy a drive for the shutters, but make it yourself.
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Types of automatic country or garage gates
There are the following types of automatic gates:
- recoil;
- swing
The design of automatic sliding gates, which are a single piece, has a mechanism that opens the doors to the left or to the right. It does not provide the necessary tightness to the premises, since the gate must move using rollers on a special rail. It is advisable to install automatic open gates at the entrance to the territory.
The automatic swing gate system involves the installation of double doors, as well as the connection of automation that drives the mechanism. The structure is controlled using an electric drive. An assessment of a number of initial parameters allows you to choose it correctly:
- valve size;
- weight of the entire product;
- length from the middle of the door hinges to the side walls.
The doors can open outwards or inwards. The first method is the most suitable. Hinged models have the following disadvantage: the possibility of breakdowns due to the presence of any obstacle in the way when the doors close.
The cost of swing structures is the main argument that is the reason for the increased demand for this product. For example, a gate whose dimensions are 2x4 m costs the buyer 0.8–1 thousand. e. If there is a gate in the door leaf, the cost of the model increases by 25–30%.
A necessary condition for installing fast gates of any type is the availability of free space, which allows you to open the doors without interference. To make the frame for such models, a profile with high rigidity is used. It should be paneled with metal or wood.
Automatic forged gates always look presentable. The design features durable, elegant doors that can cover openings of different sizes. In this case, a separate gate is not required. The disadvantages of this model are:
- the need for free space;
- high cost of the product.
Models of forged carved grilles are always very beautiful and elegant.
This is interesting: Electrical project in a private house (video)
Features of electric swing gates
The advantage of swing gates is the ease of self-installation.
The automatic type of swing gates differs from standard ones in the presence of an electric drive. The two doors can be opened inwards and outwards. When making products with your own hands, you need to consider the advantages and disadvantages. The advantages of swing structures include:
- possibility of arrangement even with a limited budget;
- popularity - all automation components are on sale;
- unhindered passage of vehicles if space is available;
- making sashes from any materials;
- ease of self-installation of the canvas.
The disadvantages of automatic gates are associated with the lengthy work of digging and concreting pillars and the need for a large space to open the doors. For normal operation of an electric drive, two engines are required, which is associated with significant financial costs.
Installation of electric gearboxes
When choosing automation, certain factors should be taken into account:
- The automatic system must be selected in accordance with the area, weight and windage of the gate.
- Vertically aligned sashes (for easy and correct operation).
- The side in which the portal opens (outward or inward).
It is best to install an automatic electric drive in the middle of the sashes, but if necessary, it can be installed from below and from above. The main condition is to attach the second bracket to the frame of the structure. If the engine is not installed correctly, there may be distortions during its operation, which will lead to jamming during operation.
The doors open inwards
This option is more complicated, since when opening the shutter this way, the installation requirements limit certain dimensions. For example, the distance between the drive and the center of the loop should not be more than 50-60 mm. Difficulties may arise if the pillars are made of stone or brick; in such cases, the loop is located in the middle of the support. In such cases, the distance from the center of the hinge to the edge of the post is 15-20 cm, and it is impossible to install an electric drive on such a sash.
In most cases, for a portal that opens inwards, the loop is placed closer to the yard, and if the post is made of metal 100*100mm (the loop is in the middle, but the required distance to the edge of the post is 50 mm). In such cases, a special steel bracket for the electric drive is welded to the mortgage or to a metal support.
Installation of automation
The doors open outwards
For this type of gate, there are no difficulties when installing linear drives. When installing, it should be taken into account that linear-type gearboxes will reduce the opening of a swing structure by 15 cm on each side, and it is better to install them high so as not to be touched by vehicles when moving.
The bracket should be extended by 5 cm using an additional plate and attached to the mortgage using a welding machine. The bracket inserts can be welded to the pipe or to prepared anchors.
Types of electric drives for gates
Linear electric drive for swing gates
The drive mechanism of the structure is a metal “arm”, which, upon command from the remote control, directs the doors to the desired position. For self-installation, you can choose two types of drive:
- Linear – the units are compactly located in one housing. The solution is suitable for entrance groups of townhouses, private houses, dachas, and cottages outside the city.
- Lever - the electric drive is installed on the garage entrance, it is massive, easy to operate and reliable.
- Hydraulic – used for areas with large throughput, it works on the principle of pumping oil pressure.
There is no significant difference between the types of electric drives, but for selection you will need to take into account the total weight of the blade and its dimensions, the distance from the side support to the center of the loop.
Before installing the drive, the valves are adjusted.
Installation of safety photocells
Their installation is easy. Photocells are 2 devices - one of them sends a beam of light, and the second receives it. The sliding gate will move normally as long as there is a light signal. When a shutter appears for the beam (person, machine, animal), the gate stops closing.
Installation of photocells for gates can be done in different ways.
All that is required is to secure them against each other to expose the light signal and connect. You can make special columns or pedestals and weld them to them. Another simple way is to make columns from the remains of a profile pipe and install photocells. As you can see, there are many options, and your task is to choose the best option.
To connect the wires, we make holes in the pipe and run them under the roadway. To avoid breaks, we hide the wire in a corrugated hose. Photocells can be secured using ordinary self-tapping screws.
Selection and calculation of engines
In order for the doors to swing open, it is rational to use various types of gear motors. If it comes to small gates, then a good option would be screwdriver motors that run on a battery, as well as washer or window lift motors. The question is different - how to make a clutch for the shaft of such an engine.
The easiest way is to contact a specialized store that sells geared motors. Consultants will help you choose a device from a wide range. In this way, you can find a mechanism with a suitable torque.
Let's imagine the following: we measured the force of closing the doors and it is equal to 13.5 kg at the level of a manual canter. 1 kg = 9.8 N. It turns out that the traction force is 132.3 N.
If we are dealing with a rack or pinion transmission, then this figure should be divided by the diameter of the wheel - this way you can find out the torque of the motor.
Before us is a “nut-screw” structure. Reduction occurs within it. Additional recalculation will be required here. Let's assume that there is an M18 stud with a 2.5 mm thread. For a single revolution, the nut makes a translational movement of 2.5 mm.
The gear ratio will then be 7.2:1. With these characteristics, the motor torque will be equal to 1.69 kg/cm.
This calculation scheme does not take into account friction, but it helps determine the permitted engine power. To compensate for energy losses in the future, it is better to ensure a power reserve of approximately 100-250%.
It is also recommended to calculate the speed of the rotating shaft. This is done like this: divide the stroke parameter by the thread size and get the number of revolutions. That is, the number of revolutions that will be needed to fully open the gate structure.
Electrical supply and door frame installation
carry out electrical wiring
This, of course, significantly increases the cost of not only the work, but also the gate structure itself. Install the wiring immediately after finishing work on the foundation. The cable is laid in the foundation structure, and a special corrugation is used to lay it.
It is important to calculate the place where the cable bundle will ultimately exit in advance, so that you can then stretch the entire cable into the room for connection to the electrical network. Next, when installing the gate with your own hands, you can begin assembling the necessary sliding gate consoles
This may require profile pipes. Dimensions can be selected independently in accordance with the scale of the design
Then, when installing the gate with your own hands, you can begin assembling the necessary sliding gate consoles. This may require profile pipes. The dimensions can be selected independently in accordance with the scale of the structure.
Profile pipes are cut, if necessary, to the required length and prepared for welding work. Experts usually recommend welding pipes so that the horizontal posts end up on top of the vertical ones.
This method has already shown in practice that the structure turns out to be stronger. In addition, when installing horizontal racks on top, the process of corrosion on the frame is prevented. But in this case it will be necessary to make protection for the horizontal cross-sections.
To do this, after assembling the structure, you need to clean all joints and paint the frame with a special paint that prevents the spread of rust. The crossbars must be welded every 50 cm if the gate has a width greater than 1.5 meters. This will prevent the fabric from sagging in the future.
Installation of roller base and blade
The roller base is considered one of the most important mechanisms in a sliding gate system. The thing is that this part bears the entire load from the canvas. That is why all fastenings must be reliable.
Most often, for this purpose, fasteners are welded to the channel. Immediately after the installation of the rollers, the gates are installed on them, and after that, replacements are carried out, which make it possible to check the stability and level.
In order for the gates to operate smoothly and without hitches on the roller system, they are installed on the same plane, but accuracy can only be checked using laser pointers.
Stage three. Manufacturing of gate leaves
To make sliding gates with your own hands, in addition to rolled metal and tools, you will need to purchase a set of fittings for the structure. In the sliding gate diagram above we described the components of the system. Fittings for sliding gates vary in the maximum width of the opening and the weight of the gate that the beam and trolleys can carry.
For example, if the gate weighs up to 350 kg, and the length of the opening is 4 meters, you can use MICRO 6, Dacha 6 components. As a rule, they are intended for private use: a cottage, a summer cottage. Weight restrictions imply light finishing from a profile sheet, mesh or picket fence.
For structures up to 500 kg and an opening length of a maximum of 5 meters, you need to use the ECO 7 kit. These can be light forged gates, structures finished with corrugated board or light wood (pine).
If the canvas weighs about 800 kg, and the opening is wide (up to 7 meters), it is necessary to select components that can cope with this task, for example, the EURO kit from the ROLTEK company.
The most powerful parts for the configuration - the MAX system - are capable of supporting a canvas weighing up to two tons, with an opening of up to 12 meters.
When purchasing components for making sliding gates with your own hands, we recommend that you consider their delivery, since the guide can be 5 or more meters long. You can transport it yourself, in the trunk of a car, or you can hire a specialist. transport, or order delivery from us. If you want the components to be delivered to another city, we will organize everything. The cost of delivery throughout Russia is not high, because the cargo is transported as a group. You can check the price of transportation by calling us.
You can cut the guide beam into 2 parts - then the delivery issue will be much easier. We perform the cut with a special cutter and the beam fits together perfectly. The guide can be welded on site without loss of quality.
To assemble a sliding gate frame for a 4*2 m opening you will need:
- profile pipe with a cross-section of 60*40 (you can also use a pipe 60*30) - 3 pipes of standard length 6 m.
- profile pipe 40*20 or 20*20 for the manufacture of sheathing (the filling of the gate leaf made of corrugated sheets, wood, etc. is attached to it) - 5 pipes of standard length 6 m.
Correct leaf design is the basis for long-lasting gate operation. The gate leaf must be rigid, but not overloaded with elements. The frame is a load-bearing truss containing the necessary diagonal and vertical load-bearing elements.
Most often, the frame is made using the technology of all-welded structures. Subsequently, it can be finished with wood, picket fence, etc.
Electrical wiring installation
General rules for laying cables
When installing wires yourself, it is recommended to take into account certain rules:
- You should leave 1-1.5 free ends of the wiring.
- The control unit is installed on the side where it is easier to connect the 220 V power cable.
- The wiring starts with corrugation only from the bottom side.
- It is recommended to leave free ends of 1-1.5 m. The control unit has a box to prevent water from entering.
- Each drive requires a three-wire cable to power the electric motors.
- The power cable should be positioned slightly lower than the mounting height of the drive.
Electrical wiring
Important! To avoid breakdown of the automation due to voltage surges, it is recommended to install a voltage stabilizer.
Conditions for connecting photocell cables
There are also certain rules for wiring photocell cables:
- Two-core wires 4*0.22 should be used for connection.
- If the gate is made of opaque material, it is necessary to install a second pair of photocells behind the gate (the kit includes only two photocells, so you need to purchase another pair).
- They should be mounted at a height of 500-600 mm from the ground surface.
Manufacturing nuances
When manufacturing gates, it is necessary to take into account an independent automation system.
Automatic doors operate remotely, but the quality of the structure’s functioning depends on the type of electric drive. When making your own, you need to take into account:
- complete set of a ready-made automation system - photocells and a control unit for opening the sash in 15 seconds;
- there should be no obstacles in front of the opening - they will cause jamming;
- for a homemade drive, you can use a satellite dish mechanism powered by a voltage of 36 V;
- the optimal range of the remote control is at least 50 m. The remote control will require two key fobs and a current relay;
- the type of decorative cladding, its weight, and the intensity of opening determine the category of the drive.
For normal operation of the structure in winter, it is better to make an electric drive with a power reserve.
Automation for sliding gates - power supply
Let's return to our gate drive and automation kit. How many and what kind of wires do we need to lay to our gates in advance when laying cables along the site? We will answer this question below, but first things first. In order not to waste time on empty discussions on the topic “which gate drive is better to choose,” we will simply say that there is a CAME
, there is nothing more! The drive for sliding gates (like everything else) is also selected based on the weight of the gate leaf. The heavier the sash, the more powerful the drive is needed.
Automation kits for CAME sliding gates are described below
:
Set CAME ВХ-243 | Set CAME ВХ-68 | Set CAME ВХ-78 | Set CAME BK-1200 | Set CAME BK-1800 |
Sliding gate weight up to 300 kg, high work intensity (70%). | Sliding gate weight up to 800 kg, work intensity 30%. | The weight of sliding gates is up to 800 kg, the operating intensity is 30%, the function of incomplete opening of the gate (“wicket”). | Sliding gate weight up to 1200 kg, average work intensity (50%). | Sliding gate weight up to 1800 kg, average work intensity (50%). |
Current consumption=7.0 A; Power=170 W | Current consumption=2.6 A; Power=200 W | Current consumption=2.4 A; Power=300 W | Current consumption=3.3 A; Power=380 W | Current consumption=4.2 A; Power=480 W |
EACH SET CONTAINS : gearbox-drive (1 pc.), radio receiver AF43RU (1 pc.), TWIN2 remote control (2 pcs.) | ||||
IN ADDITION, any set can be completed with : antenna TOP-A433N (1 piece), photocells DIR 10 (set of 2 pieces), signal lamp KLED 24B (1 piece). |
Connection | Cable length 1 | Cable length 10 | Cable length 20 |
Supply voltage 230 V | 3x1.5mm 2 | 3x2.5mm 2 | 3x4.0mm 2 |
Signal lamp | 2x0.5mm 2 | 2x1.0mm 2 | 2x1.5mm 2 |
Photocells-transmitters | 2x0.5mm 2 | 2x0.5mm 2 | 2x0.5mm 2 |
Photocells-receivers | 4x0.5mm 2 | 4x0.5mm 2 | 4x0.5mm 2 |
Power supply for additional devices | 2x0.5mm 2 | 2x0.5mm 2 | 2x1.0mm 2 |
Control and safety devices | 2x0.5mm 2 | 2x0.5mm 2 | 2x0.5mm 2 |
Antenna connection | Coaxial cable RG58 or equivalent with a characteristic impedance of 50 Ohms |
In fact, all that needs to be done in advance is to connect the supply voltage to the gate drive (first line in the table above). Use a wire with a cross section of 3 x 1.5mm 2 or 3 x 2.5mm 2 . This must be done through a separate machine, which must be de-energized until the installation of the gate drive and automation kit is completed. This supply wire must be brought out near the mortgage on which the gate drive will be installed.
In addition to this, the only wire (going to the sliding gate from the panel), in principle, nothing else is needed, but if you want to be able to open and close the gate not only using remote controls, but also, for example, using buttons from the house, lay additionally twisted pair. If you plan to install an additional intercom (for communication from home with visitors at the gate and opening/closing gates, gates, etc.) - lay a twisted pair cable, a two-core power cable 2x0.5mm 2 or 2x0.75mm 2 from the house to the gate. If you plan to install an analog video camera (as part of the intercom or separately), lay an additional coaxial television cable with a characteristic impedance of 75 Ohms.
We remind you that the basic package of the drive does not include photocells, a signal lamp, or an additional antenna; therefore, if you did not purchase them separately, you will not need any additional switching except connecting the drive power cable. On the other hand, if you decide to purchase and connect them later, you can easily do so at any time. In this case, the maximum difficulty that you may encounter is the need to dig a small trench to lay the wire connecting the photocells on two poles on opposite sides of the gate opening.
Routing electrical wires and cables
The installation of automatic equipment begins when laying the support posts located on the side. It is recommended to lay wiring for electrical energy and device control in the internal cavity of the poles. Be sure to make holes for the wires to come out.
The wires are pre-prepared. Previously, motors with starters and wires with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 were used. Now such “thick” cables are no longer needed. Relatively “thick” cables extend from the control unit and motor. Their cross section does not exceed 1.5 mm2.
Wires are laid under the road leading from the gate. They are used to control the door leaf, which is installed opposite the control unit. It is better to carry out such work before pouring the foundation or laying paving slabs. Otherwise, you will have to dismantle the tracks later, which will entail additional costs.
It is recommended to purchase wires with the appropriate markings in compliance with all sizes. All this information is displayed in the instructions. If you decide to assemble an automatic drive yourself according to your own scheme, then it is also better to specifically indicate the materials, tools and dimensions used.
Description of possible equipment elements
Control method
For remote control (analogous to the remote control of a factory automation kit), you can take ACSTM 114R (wireless two-channel remote control module using “jumping code” technology) or, as a last resort, use equipment based on a car alarm, which will provide additional protection against overload, as well as squeezing something in the doors, for example, a car body, a person, etc.
Drive mechanism mechanics
Do-it-yourself electric swing gates can be made on the basis of an electric motor (gearbox), with a power supply of 12-24 volts with direct current. This scheme is optimal and has a normal level of safety for operating the drive outdoors in an aggressive environment. The electric motor-gearbox can be:
- From the windshield wiper of a VAZ-2110 model car, since it has a higher torque output compared to other engines of similar action.
- Another option is from the windshield wiper of a MAZ truck at 24 volts at high power
- The gearbox for the gate door is based on the principle of an elevator device.
- The drive is carried out by an engine from a cooling fan on the VAZ radiator, through an i-80 type worm gearbox.
Windshield wiper motor gearbox VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
- Lid.
- Noise suppressing capacitor.
- Board with limit switch contacts.
- Gaskets.
- Gear on the output shaft.
- Set of intermediate gears.
- Gear motor housing.
- Thermal bimetallic fuse.
- Interference suppression choke.
- Anchor element.
- Electric motor housing.
Such relatively inexpensive and affordable motors with a good level of reliability already have worm gearboxes that can operate outdoors, so you do not need to think about any additional sealed casing.
The actuator can be made from 2 pins, with a diameter of 20-16 mm and a length of 1 meter.
How the device works
Using a hypoid gear and torque, the impulse will be transmitted from the gear motor shaft gear to the driven gears connected to the ends of the studs.
Screw operation
The driven gears should rotate in the opposite direction. During rotation, the gears are fixedly mounted on a pin, and a nut, secured with a rod, moves along it. The second end of the rod is fixed to the leaf of the swing gates. Thus, the rotation of the screw causes the nut to move; it should be run along a slider-type guide, which pushes the rod attached to the door leaf.
The second, mirrored part of the drive works similarly. When rotating the screws towards each other, the nuts should move apart from the center (toward the center, it all depends on the direction of rotation). They move the doors behind them using rods. You can, of course, take a screw part from a car jack, where half the screw has a left-hand thread, and the other part has a right-hand thread.
Brass bushing system
It is best to make the nut, as in the factory versions, from brass, so the thread will not be erased; you can put a steel casing on top of it with a hinged rod mount. Take angular contact bearings with rotating pins as the most optimal option in terms of loads.
Attention! As for placement, this device is mounted on a channel above the canvas connected to the supporting pillars of the portal
Another assembly option
Option with bicycle sprockets
The driven gear can be driven by the gear motor. In this case, the gear pulls the chain along the guide made of prof. pipes along which carriages with hinges for traction move. That is, the principle is similar to the previous one. Instead of 4 radial thrust bearings, you use 2 bicycle sprockets with a hub assembly, a bicycle chain or steel cable (easier to tighten and does not stretch), which is much cheaper than a pair of studs and bevel gears.
The assembly process is complicated due to the need for a large fleet of machine tools with drilling and turning machines. If the specified tool is not available, use the maximum number of ready-made units.