We install electrical wiring in a private house with our own hands

Today, in every home you can find a variety of household electrical appliances, but few people know how to properly install electrical wiring in a private home. If you want to save money, then this knowledge will help in such painstaking work. Installing wiring is a rather labor-intensive process, but nevertheless, even a novice electrician can do it. If you are ready to do all the work yourself and have the necessary tools at hand, or just want to supervise a hired electrician, we will look at the whole process step by step.

Sequence of work when installing electrical wiring in a house

Electrical wiring in a private house is done before finishing work begins. The frame of the house is out, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work.

The sequence of actions is as follows:
• Determination of input type - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
• Development of a scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that the technical specifications will not always determine your declared power; most likely they will allocate no more than 5 kW.
• Selection of components and components, purchase of meters, machines, cables, etc.
• Input of electrics from the pole into the house. Performed by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - overhead or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
• Install the panel, bring electricity into the house.
• Laying cables inside the house, connecting sockets and switches.
• Ground loop design and its connection.
• Testing the system and obtaining a certificate.
• Electrical connection and operation.

This is only a general plan; each case has its own nuances and features, but you need to start by obtaining the technical conditions for connecting to the electrical network and the project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption.

It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, you will probably be able to build a wall on which you can put a machine and a counter.

Making a plan and receiving a project

Having decided on the type of input, you can begin to develop a plan for electrifying your home. Take a scale plan of the house and draw where the equipment will be located, figure out where to place the sockets and switches.

In this case, you need to take into account where any large-sized furniture will be located, and where it can be rearranged, so that sockets and switches are not placed in these areas.

All lighting fixtures will need to be drawn on the plan: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some of them will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on.

For example, in the kitchen there is a lot of equipment that works constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also equipment that turns on periodically. All this is plotted on the plan, and the optimal location of the switching points is determined. The same approach applies to each of the rooms.

How many phases

A private house can be supplied with single-phase voltage (220 V) or three-phase (380 V). According to energy consumption standards for a private house, the maximum consumption per house for a single-phase network can be 10-15 kW, for a three-phase network - 15 kW.

Three-phase input is needed only when you need to connect powerful equipment operating from a 380 V network

So what's the difference? The fact is that powerful electrical appliances can be directly connected to a three-phase network - electric stoves or heating boilers, ovens and similar equipment. However, the input requirements and wiring of the 380V network are much stricter: higher voltage, greater chance of serious injury. Therefore, if your house is no more than 100 square meters, and you do not think of heating it with electricity, you are better off using 220 V.

How to do the wiring in the house with your own hands

Before starting work, read the Electrical Installation Rules (ELD), which outline the basics of working with the equipment.

Electrical wiring in the house, carried out independently, requires the following conditions:
1. free access to metering equipment, distribution boxes, sockets and switches is required.
2. they are mounted at a level of 60-150cm from the floor; opening doors should not block access.
3. the cable is brought in from above;
4. The installation height of sockets varies from 50 to 80 centimeters from the floor. For safety reasons, they cannot be placed less than 50 centimeters from electric and gas stoves, heating radiators, and pipes.
5. Power supply is provided from below.
6. The number of sockets is determined at the rate of 1 piece per 6 sq.m. This rule does not apply to the kitchen; sockets are installed here according to the number of household appliances.
7. To power the bathroom, it is better to provide a separate transformer located outside this room (to reduce the voltage).
8. The cable is laid with strict adherence to vertical and horizontal (without bends or diagonals, so as not to damage it during installation and perforation).
9. horizontal ones are laid at a distance of 5-10 centimeters from the ceilings and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling and floor. Vertically located cables are laid at least 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening.
10. The distance to gas pipes should not be less than 40 centimeters;
11. The wiring should not come into contact with metal building structures.
12. Special boxes are used for wiring and connecting cables. Connections must be securely insulated. It is forbidden to connect copper wires with aluminum ones.

Wiring plan

Let's say you have an apartment in a new building, which still needs to be renovated before you move in.

Typically, repairs consist of several stages:
• redevelopment (if necessary);
• plumbing work;
• pre-installation of air conditioning routes;
• construction work – plastering, installation of ceilings;
• installation of plumbing products - washbasins, showers, toilets;
• electrical wiring;
• installation of doors, floor coverings;
• wallpapering, painting;
• installation of electrical installation products - sockets, switches, and lamps.

Electrical work in an apartment is usually done first. Before starting electrical work, it is advisable to have a wiring plan. In the simplest version, it can be done by hand on a sheet of paper.

Drawing a wiring plan

So, you consulted with your household and made your decision. Now all the ideas and plans need to be transferred to paper. We draw a plan of your premises. How to do it? Let's take a standard one-room apartment as an illustrative example.

To complete the scheme we need:
1. notebook sheet;
2. ruler;
3. pen;
4. colored pencils or markers.

The diagram shows the location of the walls and doorways. No specific dimensions are required, just a general picture.

An example of an apartment wiring plan

The diagram should show the following elements in as much detail as possible:
• Sockets. They can be located in any convenient place, but no less than 15–20 cm from door and window openings, as well as 40 cm away from heat and gas pipelines. As for the quantity, it is customary to install one socket for every 6 m2 of area .
• Lighting. Standard layouts are designed for one large lamp in the center of the ceiling. But you can, if you wish, make additional light sources (spotlights, sconces, night lights), providing wiring for them.
• Switches. Usually they are mounted on the right side of the doorway and at a distance of 60 or 150 cm from the floor.
• Cable routes. When indicating them on your drawing, remember that the wiring must run strictly vertically or horizontally. No zigzags are allowed. If you plan to lay wires inside walls, then you should retreat 15–20 cm from ceilings and openings.
• Distribution boxes. They also need to be shown on the plan because they are where all the major cable connections are made. A box is placed on each branch from the main line, but no more than one per room.
• Distribution panel. Typically, power cabinets are installed outside the apartment in a common corridor. But some layouts are designed for internal placement of the shield, in which case the task will be a little simpler.

Marking

One way or another, between drawing up the plan and starting the rough work, there will be a procedure called “marking”.

In scientific language, marking is the operation of applying lines (scores) to the surface of the workpiece, which, according to the drawing, determine the contours of the part or place to be processed.

At the initial stages of work on distributing electricity in a room, markings are made as follows:

• first of all, the locations of sockets and switches, as well as the locations of cable outlets for household appliances, are marked on the walls;
• Next, lines are drawn along which the walls will be chipped;
• locations for distribution boxes are determined;
• the location where the apartment electrical panel will be installed is selected;
• after this, the routes of cable routes from the electrical distribution panel to a specific electrical point are marked.

In most cases, changes in the electrical wiring diagram of an apartment are easier to make at the initial stage of work, namely at the marking stage. In this case, time and financial resources will be saved, since possible changes will entail additional costs.

Electrical wiring diagram in a private house

All electrical work in the house begins with the development of a detailed plan and diagram. The main thing in the diagram is to indicate the location of installation of devices and laying of cables; it is also important to accurately determine the location of sockets, switches, lamps and household appliances. To simplify wiring, consumers are divided into groups.

The grouping of consumers can be arbitrary. It simplifies the connection diagram, distributes the load and saves materials. The electrical wiring diagram of a country house differs from that of an apartment in the method of cabling: in a multi-storey house it starts from the floor panel.

Electricity in a private home requires connection from an overhead line or from an external distributor.

All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. A separate branch is used for electrical wiring for lighting fixtures.

Usually one is enough, but this is not a rule; it may be more convenient or expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. The lighting of the basement, utility rooms, as well as the light on the street stands out in a separate group.

Then the sockets are divided into groups. How much you can “put” on one wire depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more.

It is better to allocate a separate power supply line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable from the point of view of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.

As a result, you may have three to seven lines running into the kitchen - this is where the equipment is most abundant and powerful too: for an electric boiler and electric stove, separate lines are absolutely needed. It is better to “plant” the refrigerator, microwave, extractor hood, electric oven, and washing machine separately. Not so powerful blender, food processor, etc. can be included in one line.

There are usually two to four lines going into the rooms: in a modern home and in any room there is something to plug into the electrical network. One line will go to lighting. On the second there will be sockets into which you will need to plug in your computer, router, TV, and phone charger.

All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you intend to install an air conditioner or turn on an electric heater, you will need separate lines.

If a private house is small, then there may be two or three groups: one for all lighting fixtures, the second for the street, and the third for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the number of units of electrical equipment in it.

Based on the number of groups received, the number of machines on the distribution panel in the house is determined: to the received number of groups, add two to four for development (suddenly you forgot something important, or you need to turn on something new powerful, divide a group that is too large or far apart into two and so on.).

The distribution panel and the number of machines in it are selected based on the number of groups: there is a separate machine for each group. If a private house is large, with several floors, then it makes sense to install more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.

Why is a wiring diagram necessary?

First of all, the diagram is necessary to compile a list of necessary consumables. That is, having a diagram at hand, the length of the wire, the cross-section of the wire in individual sections, the required number of sockets and switches, junction boxes and their locations are calculated.

Also, a wiring diagram is necessary to determine the installation location and location of power wiring elements, such as: distribution board, circuit breakers, metering devices (meters), input of power wires and cables.

Power in a private home, as a rule, comes via a 0.4 kV overhead line. From the overhead line support, a phase wire L and a combined neutral protective and working PEN (single-phase power) come to the input electrical panel.

Recently, energy supply organizations have been installing meters on the street, in the incoming electrical panel (previously, meters were installed inside the house). Therefore, an electric meter and an input circuit breaker are installed in the input electrical panel (you can also install an input selective RCD).

From the input panel, the supply wire or cable is laid to the internal electrical panel located directly inside the house.

The power supply to the house begins from this internal electrical panel. To make the power supply more reliable, consumers are divided into groups.

Let's consider an example of the main consumer groups:
• Lighting.
• Rosette group.
• Power group (boiler, washing machine, boiler).
• Household needs (outbuildings, garage, basement, etc.).

Separate protection devices (circuit breakers, RCDs) are installed in the internal electrical panel for each group of consumers.

Also, to draw up a wiring diagram in a private house, you need to have a plan of the house itself. Knowing the house plan drawing, you can superficially display the wiring diagram.

If there is no money for the device and no circuit

In some cases, searching for wiring is a fundamental task: for example, you urgently need to make a through hole in the wall, hammer in a dowel or nail. In such cases, you can use the means at hand to understand where the wiring is located in the panel house:

1. Indicator screwdriver . This method was already briefly mentioned in the previous section of our article. A conventional indicator screwdriver detects voltage, and therefore it also detects wires with thin insulation at a shallow depth without problems. You can start your search from an outlet or chandelier and move the tool along the wall to the point near which you plan to work. The accuracy of the method is very high (plus a couple of centimeters of minutes), but it cannot be called universal.
2. For major or cosmetic repairs, you can simply take a closer look at the walls and look for differences in the color of the plaster. Lighter, rough stripes of a different texture are probably grooves for wires. For them, a slightly less liquid solution is most often used, and they are made much later - the difference will definitely be noticeable to the eye.

3. Radio. Surprisingly, even with the help of an ordinary radio receiver you can make your own improvised wiring diagram in an apartment panel building. To do this, you need to turn on the device and tune it to a frequency of 100 kilohertz (kHz). It is in this range that cables begin to emit interference - this is where the law of unity of electric and magnetic fields works. You need to move the antenna along the wall as if it were a specialized device or an indicator screwdriver. The only drawback is that the method has low accuracy. The error can be up to ten centimeters, and therefore when working with a drill or hammer drill, it is better to retreat the same amount in order to avoid troubles.

4. Microphone. In fact, the microphone is also an antenna - these devices use approximately the same operating principle, although they have different sensitivity ranges. However, in the complete absence of a tool, it will help you find a groove in a panel house and avoid unpleasant situations. You need to turn on the microphone in the recording device and turn up the speakers. Then you need to run it along the wall at a distance of 1–2 centimeters. A characteristic sign of detected wiring is a characteristic crackling sound. The accuracy of the method is no higher than that of a radio receiver. It is also supposed to make a reserve to prevent electric shock.

Where to put the shield

The installation location of the shield is not regulated by regulations.
There are only restrictions regarding the distance from the pipelines; it must be at least 1 meter away. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters. There are no restrictions on premises. Many people install a panel in the boiler room: since it’s a technical room, it makes sense to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities do not make any claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near the front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no claims.

Determination of current strength

An important point when planning electrical wiring is the calculation of the current strength in the electrical network. Knowing this load indicator, you can accurately determine which machine and cable with the appropriate cross-section are needed.

The planned load can be calculated using the formula: Current = Total power of household appliances (W) / Network voltage (V). For example: eight 60 W lamps, 1600 W electric kettle, 350 W refrigerator, 1200 W electric oven. Mains voltage 220 V.

Result: ((8*60) +1600+350+1200)/220=16.5A. Typical home consumption does not exceed 25 Amps. Determining the size of the cable cross-section An equally important task is to determine the cross-section of the cables that will be used for wiring electricity.

The safety of your home depends on the correct choice. A mismatch between the cross-section and the load will result in overheating of the cable, which can cause a short circuit and fire. You can determine the required cable size using the table.

For example, if the estimated current is 16.5A, closed wiring using copper wires is planned, then a cable of at least 2 kV is required. mm. For 25 Amps – 4 mm2. For different distribution groups, a cable is taken in accordance with the expected load.

Due to the fact that the table indicates extremely accurate values, and in fact frequent fluctuations in current strength are observed, a certain cross-section reserve is needed. To determine the cable length, you need to measure all distances with a tape measure and add up to four meters in reserve.

A lighting panel is installed near the entrance to the apartment, into which residual current devices are installed and wires are connected. Typically, for a network of switches and lighting, it is assumed to install a 16 A RCD, 20 A sockets. An electric stove requires a more powerful installation - 32 A and is connected separately.

What tool is needed?

Before starting the main part of the work, it is recommended to collect and prepare all the necessary tools. For step-by-step wiring, ensure you have the following tools:

• SIP wires: types, differences from cable, features and advantages

• Read also:  How to properly supply electricity to a garage: connection diagram

  What is a Power Cable?

• How to conveniently unwind a cable coil on site during electrical installation

• hammer;
• standard set of screwdrivers;
• indicator screwdriver;
• wall chaser;
• hammer drill;
• tester;
• pliers

In addition to the basic instruments, you will also need such devices as a roll of electrical tape, a marking tag, and terminal blocks. What it is strictly forbidden to save money on is the electrical panel. Its quality determines how reliable and safe the electrical network will be.

It is not allowed to install the shield in bathrooms, baths, saunas, since these rooms have a high level of humidity. Placement of an outlet or switch is allowed only on external walls.

Selection of cables and components

Today's standard wiring diagram for a private house includes two circuit breakers. One - input - is installed before the meter, usually on the street. It and the meter are sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the panel.

The operation (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the circuit breaker installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in the event of an emergency, you will not need to crawl under the roof.

If the design load is less than 15 kW, the input circuit breaker is set to 25 A. The meter is selected accordingly. For higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer; its parameters and the parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.

Recently, when connecting a private house to the power grid, they are required to install a meter and a machine on the street. This requirement is not supported by law; it is simply easier for the electricity service to control consumption.

If you want, you can fight, if not, choose a meter and machine in a case with increased dust and moisture resistance - a protection class of at least IP-55. For installation inside a building, the protection must be less - IP-44, and accordingly the price will be lower.

Which wire to use for wiring in the house

And so, to install electrical wiring, the owner of a private house needs to stock up on a certain amount of cable and electrical accessories (we will consider its types below). The cable can be copper or aluminum. Of course it must have insulation.

It is better to use copper cable. The reason for this is that it has more bandwidth. This makes it possible to use wire with a smaller cross-section.

Another advantage of a copper cable is that it can withstand a greater load than an electrical wire made of aluminum.

It’s also worth saying about this moment. A private house can be supplied with both single-phase and three-phase power. In the case when it is necessary to supply current to single-phase devices, the cable must be three-core.

One conductor is phase, the other is neutral, and the third is intended for grounding. In case of laying three-phase power, the cable must be five-core.

For wiring, both flat (convenient to install under plaster) and round cables can be used. Their important characteristic is the cross section.

The choice of electrical wire with a certain cross-section depends on the load level. So, if a wire is laid to the sockets, then this value should be at least 2.5 square meters. millimeters. Cables for powering lighting devices must have a cross-section that is at least 1.5 square meters. millimeters.

In order not to make a mistake with the cross-section of the electrical wire, you need to calculate the power of all possible devices that will be powered from a separate wire. Of course, you need to take into account some amount as a reserve.

After this, the total power must be divided into 220 (if one phase enters the house) or 380 volts (if there is a three-phase network). As a result, you will know the current that the cable must carry.

Based on this value, you can determine the desired cross-section. To do this, you need to use special tables.

Necessary electrical accessories and requirements for them

As for the electrical accessories that will be used in a private home to create electricity. wiring, then it can consist of:
• mounting boxes;
• sockets;
• any types of switches;
• switches;
• call buttons and other types.

Mounting boxes are used in any room and can be characterized by different shapes. So, their shape can be round, square or rectangular. The purpose of these boxes may vary.

Some of them are used to install sockets or switches. They are mounted under the plaster and do not have a top cover. There are also boxes that are also installed under the plaster, but have a lid. They are either distributional or through.

In addition to these, there are also external (outer) boxes. It is worth noting that most boxes are not sealed. However, some are sealed.

Helpful Hint: Various wires are often connected and routed in these boxes. To connect them you need to use a distribution ring and special clamps. If you simply twist the wires and use insulating tape, then such a connection will be unreliable. The result is sparking in the box. And that's the minimum.

As for sockets, now you need to use sockets with three poles. The third pole is a safety contact that connects to the ground wire.

It is also worth mentioning the fact that it is recommended to use double sockets. They will make it possible to reduce the number of doubles or tees.

Both sockets and switches may or may not be sealed. It is advisable to use sealed electrical accessories on the external walls of a private house, on a balcony, porch, etc.

So, you should stock up on materials before you begin installing wiring inside and outside a private house.

If we talk about the principle of laying electrical wiring in a private house, then it is not much different from the same process within the walls of an apartment.

The main difference is that a private house can have several floors and, in addition to many household appliances, it can also use powerful electrical appliances that are part of heating, water supply systems or are intended for certain industrial purposes.

Another difference is receiving current from different sources. A private house receives current from a local transformer or from a power pole.

What types of cables to use

For electrical wiring in an individual home, two types of cables are most popular.

• VVG (“vinyl – vinyl – naked”). Cables of this family are the most popular for wiring electricity indoors throughout our country. This is a cable made of copper monocore with PVC insulation, external insulation is also made of PVC. For the needs of the house, a 660 V cable is more than enough; it can be round or flat. The cable intended for the home is VVGng-ls (low smoke), and not VVGng (flame retardant), as Table 2 of GOST 31565-2012 “Cable products” says. Fire safety requirements,” although VVGng-ls is more expensive, and many electricians quietly use VVGng. When purchasing a cable, you should also pay attention to the letters in brackets; they indicate the fire resistance category according to GOST R IEC 60332-3-22-2005 “Testing of electrical and optical cables under flame conditions.” Responsible manufacturers always indicate the fire resistance class in the cable brand; it may look like this, VVG(A)ng-ls.

If you have a choice between a round and flat cable, it is better to choose a round one: most Chinese fakes are flat, and a round wire can withstand twisting and kinks more easily, and its cores are better protected.

• NYM - stranded copper strands are insulated with PVC, and the outer sheath is made of PVC, but the strands themselves are encased in coated rubber. This cable is easy to cut, it is flexible, moisture- and heat-resistant. But its outer shell is not resistant to ultraviolet radiation, so this cable is not used in open wiring where sunlight falls on it. NYM is cheaper than VVG.

Other types of cables are less commonly used:

• PNUP is much inferior in quality to the first two types, but it is used for stationary lighting systems with a rated network voltage of 250 V and a frequency of 50 Hz.
• PVA wire is used in non-stationary connections of household electrical appliances, in extension cords, etc. It only lasts 5-10 years and is not intended for permanent wiring. But it is convenient to install due to the high flexibility of the cores, and some electricians use it to make permanent indoor electrical wiring. This is unprofessional: PVA in a monolithic pipe can lie in the wall for 10 years without any problems, but this is a dangerous lottery.

sergey_savUser FOURUMHOUSE

VVG, VVGng, VVGngLS, NYM, NYMngLS can be placed directly into the fine, there are no contraindications. But it’s better to throw PUNP in the trash...

The cross-section of the wire shows how much current it is capable of carrying without overheating due to exceeding this indicator. It is calculated using special formulas, programs and tables; but many use the simplified “worker-peasant method” of calculating copper cable for internal wiring: the cross-sectional area of ​​the copper conductor is equal to the desired power, rounded up.

According to this formula, to connect a 1 kW device, you need a cable with a conductor cross-section larger than 1 sq. mm.

Here is a popular “table of wires and circuit breakers” on FORUMHOUSE, in which “the standard, common sense, and cable material are taken into account.

There are also rules for selecting the cross-section of a copper cable, obtained empirically, which experienced installers are guided by.

• Lighting circuits – 3*1.5 sq.mm or 3*2 sq.mm;
• Rosette groups – 3*2.5 sq.mm;
• Heating boiler - in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, but from 3 * 4 sq. mm
• Air conditioning - depending on the power of the device, from 3 * 2.5 sq. mm; and if the device power exceeds 5 kW - 3 * 4 sq. mm.

You can reduce the risk of errors in electrical wiring installation (and they can lead to tragic consequences) if you adhere to the following rules:

• All elements of the system that are used during installation must only be of high quality, certified, and labeled;
• All materials must be purchased with a reserve, and not based on the results of one-to-one calculations;
• Standard sockets are not suitable for connecting heating boilers, stoves, hobs; sockets for starting current are needed here.
• It is impossible to design switching of low-voltage and high-power power wires in one distribution box.

How to plan wiring

In order for the process of laying wiring to be carried out very competently and at the same time the wiring to serve for a long time, it is necessary to carry out proper planning for its implementation. In other words, you need to make a diagram.

Experts recommend deciding on a list of sockets, lamps, as well as all possible mechanisms and devices that require individual connection.

This list must be compiled for each room and each auxiliary building. When developing this list, it is worth considering that in the future the list of electrical appliances will only expand.

Taking this into account, you need to decide where and how additional devices will be connected.

In the process of planning the placement of outlets, it is also worth deciding on the location of electrical appliances and other electrical “users” that will be used in the future.

That is, you need to decide where the chandeliers will be placed, where the TV will be, and where the refrigerator and other devices will be placed.

It will not be superfluous to determine the connection points for those electrical installations that will be used outside the house, that is, in the yard or landscaped area.

When this work is done, we begin to draw up a wiring diagram that will be used in a private house. Drawing up such a diagram is very important. Thanks to it, it will be possible to determine all the required quantities of materials.

At the same time, during installation you will not forget to install some kind of socket or run a certain cable. Another advantage of this arrangement is that in the future, when making repairs, you will know where all the electrical wires run.

This will eliminate any possibility of accidental damage to the cable during repair work.

What should the wiring be like?

It is worth noting that drawing up a diagram has its secrets. These secrets concern the correct routing of cables and their wiring. Let's note how to do the wiring correctly.

So, electricity enters a private house through an electric meter. After it, a distribution board is installed. It is from this shield that the wiring of various wires begins. Each of them can be called a circuit.

The number of these circuits directly depends on the number of rooms in a private house and electrical devices that are planned to be used. A small private house may have only two circuits.

One of them is assigned for sockets, the other for lighting fixtures.

Helpful advice: when drawing up any wiring diagram, regardless of the size of a private house, there should always be a separate wiring for lighting and a separate wiring for sockets.

The reason for this is that lighting fixtures and appliances plugged into outlets have different wattages. As a result, powering light fixtures requires thinner wires than powering a refrigerator, microwave, or any other electrical device.

In fact, this advice can be called mandatory. This will save on the purchase of cables. Otherwise, that is, if you connect both sockets and lamps to the same wiring, then if the cable burns out or shorts, you will not be able to use any device or lamp that is connected to this wire.

It should be borne in mind that it is better to organize a wiring diagram that will provide for the wiring of more circuits than a private house requires. This will reduce stress on the wires and eliminate the need for additional wiring in the future.

A mandatory rule is to equip each circuit with a circuit breaker. The group of circuits must also be connected to a differential relay (RCD). Both the switch and the RCD are mounted in the distribution panel.

When drawing up a diagram, you need to take into account one more nuance: there are electrical appliances that have more power (water pump or electric stove). For them you need to use a cable with a large cross-section. Of course, this cable will be a separate circuit.

If a private house consists of several floors, then electricity must be supplied to each floor through a separate wiring. Experts recommend connecting rooms separately.

Where to install switches

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the requirements for electrical wiring in some rooms are more stringent. The list of these rooms includes those that are characterized by the constant presence of water and high levels of humidity. An example is a bathroom, toilet or laundry room.

The main requirement for these rooms is to move all switches outside of them. That is, switches cannot be installed in the middle of them. Compliance with this requirement will increase the level of safety.

As for other rooms, you can use switches in them. It is advisable that they be at a height of 90-140 centimeters. In this case, the distance between the wooden door frame and the switch should be 15 centimeters.

The switch should be on the same side of the door as the handle. The circuit must also include a grounding circuit.

Once you have made the wiring diagram, you can begin installing each wire and all electrical accessories. One of the main processes is wiring installation. It can be carried out in various ways.

Drawing up a power supply diagram (project for the placement of sockets and switches)

During construction or major repairs, the first stage is the development of design and estimate documentation. This should be done by specialized organizations with a license. This option will not be considered in this article, since the purpose of this article is to provide a detailed description of doing electrical installation yourself.

In our case, the project (electrical supply diagram) involves determining the installation locations of sockets, switches, household appliances, lighting devices, lighting panels and the method of laying wires (hidden or open). Let's consider what basic recommendations exist when developing a power supply plan.

Basic recommendations when drawing up a power supply diagram for a private home

1. All cable and wire products, regardless of installation option, must be made strictly vertically or horizontally.
2. Rotations of cables must be made strictly at an angle of 90°.
3. The minimum distance from cables to portals, window and door openings should not be less than 10–15 cm.
4. The optimal distance from the finished floor level to the switches should be 90 cm (in accordance with European standards).
5. The optimal height for the location of socket groups is 30 cm from the level of the finished floor (with the exception of sockets on the work surface in the kitchen, in the bathroom for connecting a hair dryer, razor, boiler, etc.).
6. It is recommended to place sockets on both sides of the bed or sofa.
7. In places where TVs are installed, the number of sockets must be at least 4 pcs (2 pcs for the Internet and television cable and 2 for connecting a TV and tuner).
8. For large corridors and rooms, it is recommended to use pass-through switches.
9. All powerful consumers (air conditioners, electric stoves and ovens, boilers, heating boilers, etc.) must be connected exclusively from a distribution panel with separately installed protection.
10. The optimal installation height for the distribution panel is 1.5–1.7 m from the finished floor level.
11. It is prohibited to lay cables and wires closer than 20 cm to the gas pipe.
12. All metal elements and sockets must be grounded.

Installation of electrical wiring in a private house

After all the preliminary calculations, the installation itself will not cause any particular difficulties. The main thing is to follow the recommendations and observe safety precautions. The first stage is marking. Use a marker to mark the cable laying line. Next, we mark the location of lamps, sockets and SCHO (disconnection panel).

At the second stage, we tap the walls, if hidden wiring is required, or install it in an open way. Holes for equipment are made with a hammer drill using a crown attachment.

Using a wall chaser (a tool with two parallel diamond disks) or a hammer drill, make grooves for the cable about 20 mm deep, the width of which should comfortably accommodate the wires.

On the ceiling, the cable can be attached to the ceiling and hidden with a decorative ceiling. You can also hide the wiring in the voids of the floors by making input/output holes and tighten it there. Next, using a hammer drill, holes are made in the corner of the room to insert the cable through the wall.

Now you can proceed directly to installation. First, you need to install a circuit breaker into which the RCD is connected. A SCHO ready for connection has zero terminals at the top, grounding terminals at the bottom, and circuit breakers between them.

Then the cable is inserted inside and left unconnected because only a certified electrician with the appropriate certificate has the right to install it on the distribution board.

To connect the input cable to the ShchO, the blue wire is attached to zero, and to the upper contact (to the phase) of the RCD - white, to the ground - yellow with a green stripe (colors may vary depending on the manufacturer).

The machines are connected from above in series with a jumper made of white wire or a special factory-made copper busbar. Now you can install the wiring.

Open mounting option

Installation of open wiring is carried out in the following sequence: According to the marked marks, we fix the boxes or cable channels. We fasten with self-tapping screws, 5 - 10 cm from the edges in increments of 50 centimeters. We install distribution boxes, sockets and switches.

Since they are hung on the walls, we apply them to the location, mark the fastening points, drill and secure. We lay the cable from the sockets to the ShchO, starting from the connection points using VVG - 3 * 2.5 wires. We run a VVG - 3*1.5 cable from the lamps and switches to the distribution box.

Wire cores in junction boxes are connected by color using clamps (PPE caps) or using WAGO type quick connection terminals. VVG cable 3*2.5 V ShchO is attached with a phase (brown or red wire) to the RCD, zero (blue) is attached at the top, grounding (yellow wire with a green stripe) is at the bottom.

Now the finished circuit is “ringed” by the tester. If everything is fine, then we invite an electrician.

Hidden wiring

In the hidden version, the installation of wiring differs only in that the wire is laid using special corrugations, which are placed in previously prepared grooves, which will allow, if necessary, to replace the wiring without destroying the finish.

Socket boxes and distribution boxes are installed in the made niches. Upon completion of all work, the grooves are sealed with plaster; you can use gypsum putty to seal the wiring.

Using installation boxes

If we talk about open wiring of electrical communications inside a private house, then it is advisable to use installation boxes for its installation.

These boxes have a fairly aesthetic appearance and are used for installing the electrical network after the owner has completed finishing and painting the walls. Thanks to them, you can change electrical wiring without destroying the plaster of the walls.

Such boxes can be mounted along the ceiling, floor or door frame. They may have one, two or more channels. Of course, each of these channels can be used for laying different cables.

The material from which installation boxes are made is either plastic or aluminum. The inside of the aluminum box is covered with plastic.

The bottom side is perforated. It is worth noting that the use of these boxes is very beneficial since they can be easily cut and bent. This makes it possible to customize them to fit any room size.

The sizes of these boxes may vary. It is advisable to use very large boxes in cases where wiring is used to power various types of equipment.

To ensure that they do not stand out against the background of the interior, you can choose a trim or cover that has a color that matches the design. Sockets are installed on top of these boxes.

It should be kept in mind that each outlet that is installed with exposed wiring must have a fully protective enclosure. This socket is mounted directly on the wall. The same are the requirements for switches that will be used in the case of open wiring.

Using a floor box

Quite often, private houses have rooms with a large area. And if there is a need to place several electrical appliances at a certain distance from the wall and the owner does not want to stretch the cable along the floor, a floor box can be built into the floor. Of course, the cable will already go under the floor.

Using a floor box will eliminate loose wires that can lie on the floor and create obstructions while you move. Such boxes are mounted in the floor and are located at the same level as the floor.

In this case, the box lid can be designed in the style of the floor. As a result, the floor box will not be an obstacle and will not become a thing that spoils the design. Moreover, it is characterized by tightness, which does not create any risks during wet cleaning.

After all the installation work has been done, the electrical wiring needs to be checked. This process should not be limited to simply turning on the lamp and checking whether it lights up.

You need to determine whether all the elements required by the circuit are installed, whether the RCDs and circuit breakers are working, and how good the grounding connection is. You should also check the reliability of fastening switches, sockets and other elements.

When this process is done, the wiring can be considered complete.

Wire connection methods

A large percentage of electrical wiring problems come from poor wire connections.

They can be done in several ways:
• Twisting.

Only metals that are homogeneous or do not enter into a chemical reaction can combine in this way. It is strictly forbidden to twist copper and aluminum. In other cases, the length of bare conductors must be at least 40 mm. The two wires are connected to each other as tightly as possible, the turns are laid one next to the other.

The connection is wrapped on top with electrical tape and/or packed with heat-shrink tubing. If you want the contact to be 100% and losses to be minimal, do not be too lazy to solder the twist. In general, according to modern standards, this type of wire connection is considered unreliable.

• Connection via terminal box with screw terminals.

The housing is made of heat-resistant plastic and contains metal terminals that are tightened with screws. The conductor, stripped of insulation, is inserted into the socket and secured with a screw or a screwdriver. This type of connection is the most reliable.

• Connecting blocks with springs.

In these devices, contact is provided by a spring. A bare conductor is inserted into the socket and clamped by a spring.

Still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, you can assume that you will not have problems. At least with connections.

Installing electrical wiring in a house with your own hands requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your privacy and the safety of your private property.

After the wires from the machine to the connection point of the socket or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - the wires are connected to each other, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each individually to the ground - checking that the insulation is not damaged anywhere.

If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the socket or switch. Once connected, everything is checked again with a tester. Then they can be started on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to sign the machine immediately: it will be easier to navigate.

After finishing the electrical wiring throughout the house and checking everything yourself, they call electrical laboratory specialists. They check the condition of the conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, and based on the results they give you a test report (protocol). Without it you will not be given permission to put into operation.

Tools required for installation

Tools required for installation:
1. indicator screwdriver;
2. tester;
3. perforator;
4. hammer;
5. pliers;
6. screwdrivers;
7. wall chaser;
8. insulating tape.

Installation of electrical wiring in a private house must take into account the requirements for the location of switches and sockets. In rooms with high humidity (bathroom, sauna), the use of plug sockets and the installation of switches is prohibited.

Connecting an electric razor socket to the network is only possible through a transformer.

Wall chipping

After completing the markings, when performing hidden electrical installations, you can begin to groove the walls. To do this, you will need either an angle grinder (grinder) or a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner (for dust-free chasing):

Initially, it is necessary to determine the depth of the groove. Let's say you are installing a cable in a corrugated cable with a diameter of 16 mm. In this case, the depth and width of the groove must be at least 20 mm. The grooves are cut according to pre-made markings.

Important! It is prohibited to make grooves at an angle or to groove load-bearing structures (crossbars, load-bearing walls, floor slabs, etc.).

Also, at the stage of wall slitting, it is necessary to make a hole for installing an internal distribution panel. Its dimensions depend on the number of modules. In most cases, a distribution panel with 24–36 modules should be installed on each floor (depending on the number of rooms and the number of household appliances).

Drilling holes for electrical outlets and distribution boxes

For this we need:

1. Hammer;

2. Crown for socket boxes d68;

3. Crown for distribution boxes d100.

To drill holes, turn on the “drilling + drilling” mode, insert the required crown and drill the required number of holes in the pre-marked places.

Important! When installing several sockets nearby, you need to buy junction boxes, attach them to the installation site and only then drill holes. Because otherwise you will not be able to install sockets with covers that are installed under one strip.

Installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house

Installing an electrical cable in a private house will require special safety measures, especially if the house is wooden. Wiring in such a home is carried out taking into account the following requirements: Self-extinguishing wires and cables with excellent insulation are used. Distribution and installation boxes must be metal.

All connections are sealed. Exposed wiring should not come into contact with walls or ceilings. It can be mounted using porcelain insulators. Hidden wiring is carried out through metal (copper) pipes and steel boxes and must be grounded.

When using plastic corrugations and boxes, they are mounted in plaster. This type of installation is safer and looks more aesthetically pleasing. An additional step to increase the safety of a wooden home is the installation of an RCD (differential relay), which reacts to current leakage and short circuit by turning off the machine.

Installation and wiring of the distribution box

After installing the cable and wire products, you can install distribution boxes in pre-cut holes. To securely fix them, it is necessary to use alabaster, which sets very quickly, after which you can disconnect it.

Disconnection is performed in 3 ways:

1. Soldering.
2. Welding.

3. Terminal connection (WAGO clamps).

Important! It is better to make connections in the distribution box using color markings of the cables (blue to blue, brown to brown, yellow-green to yellow-green). This will prevent the phase from being confused with earth or grounding. In this case, the brown (white) wire is the phase, the blue (black) is the neutral, and the yellow-green is the ground.

Installation of electrical wiring in a private house price

We offer users a table of average prices on the market:

You need to understand that installing electrical wiring in a private house is a little more expensive than in an apartment. All prices do not include the cost of materials. In addition, calling a specialist to draw up an estimate and developing a house electrical project are calculated separately.

Marking the room

In order to mark the room you will need:

1. ordinary building level;

2. water or laser level;

3. construction pencil;
4. beating thread;
5. roulette.

Initially, using a laser level (water level) and a tape measure, we mark the installation locations of sockets and switches. Next, using a building level or a laser level and a pencil (mark), we mark the descents from the ceiling to the sockets and switches using strictly horizontal lines for subsequent cutting.

Using a laser level, we mark on the ceiling the places where cable and conductor products will be laid for the subsequent installation of fasteners for corrugations and cable laying.

We mark the installation location of the distribution box, which should be selected in such a way that the costs of cable and wire products are minimal.

Important! When marking the ceiling, keep in mind that all cables from sockets and switches and input cables to socket groups and lighting circuits will be brought into the distribution box, therefore, when installing corrugated fasteners, it is necessary to calculate how many cables will go where.

Bottom line

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a house is not an easy task, but it is quite doable. And if you study this issue well before carrying out electrical wiring, the work process will not cause any particular difficulties, and the result will please you.

Every master can make mistakes, so even if you entrusted the work to a specialist and paid for the service, monitoring his actions will help to avoid further problems. When accepting work, you will be able to appreciate the quality and know what you are paying for.

Author: Sergey Vladimirovich, electrical engineer. More about the author.

Choice of installation method: open or hidden

After determining the layout of cable lines, the method of laying cables should be adopted. There are two ways to lay lines - hidden, open.

The first method is common when the finishing of premises is carried out with suspended structures and false panels (plasterboard, MDF). There is no need to make grooves (grooves) in the walls followed by putty. Hidden electrical wiring installed in an apartment has a number of significant advantages:

• maintaining the general appearance and integrity of the interior;
• less stringent requirements for cable installation conditions;
• increased tolerances to permitted currents.

It is not uncommon to see the option of open wiring. Wires are often placed in special plastic boxes attached to the decorative surfaces of the room. The open method of laying cables has the following advantages:

• possibility of installation after or during finishing work;
• faster installation;
• the ability to modernize the network by installing additional cables or dismantling them.

Currently, if the arrangement of the electrical network is an integral part of the general renovation of the premises, specialists often use a hidden method of laying conductors.

Tool you will need for the job

Electrical installation and repair is a complex, labor-intensive process performed by professional electricians. You can’t do this without a set of special equipment. In the work (for installation, replacement of old electrical wiring), the installation team uses the following set of professional tools and devices:

• angle grinder machine with cutting wheels for stone;
• bit;
• perforator;
• screwdrivers with handles made of insulating material;
• phase indicator (indicator);
• wire cutters;
• pliers;
• extension;
• knife;
• level;
• putty knife;
• portable lamp.

Cable cross-section

When you select the material for the cable, you can calculate the required diameter of its cores. This is done taking into account the future load, which is calculated using a special table.

Calculation of cable cores

The cross-section of the conductors is selected according to the power, or the current consumed by all devices connected to one machine. Here again you will need a plan for the electrification of the building, which shows all consumer groups. The sum of the power of the installed devices is calculated, and according to the data indicated in the table, the appropriate cross-section of the wire cores is selected.

• Using the table is not difficult, if I use copper wires and a voltage of 220 V is supplied, then to lay the wiring indoors, use the left side of the table and a suitable column.
• It is necessary to compare the total power of all connected devices (it is easier to calculate). Where copper wire laid in channels, trays or voids is indicated, a larger value is selected in the “220 V” column.
• Moving to the right along this line, to the line “Section, sq. mm”, find the required diameter of the cores. From cables of this diameter, a line is created from the machine to the electricity consumers.
• To avoid confusion, mark conductors of the same thickness on the plan with their own color (so as not to forget later, separately mark what is indicated under which color).
• When the diameter for all cables is found, calculate the total length for all cables for each diameter, and add 20-25% to this for insurance. After this, it is considered that you have calculated the cables for laying in the building.

Cable sheath

Requirements for the type of cable sheath exist only when creating an electrical network for wooden buildings; in them it is necessary to use double (VVG) or triple (NYM). In buildings made of fire-safe materials, cables with any insulation can be laid.

Connecting the socket and switch

The main thing in this matter is that there is no damage, sagging, or cracks on it. For insurance, you can use a wire with enhanced protection. This may be appropriate in damp areas (saunas, bathrooms, swimming pools).

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The importance of appliance power

It is also worth mentioning the factor that directly affects the creation of wiring. This factor represents the power of electrical appliances that will be used in the country house.

It is very important because the characteristics of the input cable and the general circuit breaker depend on it. In addition, it affects the number of branches of the wiring itself and the characteristics of the cables that will form the future wiring.

Helpful advice: before drawing up a diagram and starting installation of new wiring in a country house, it is worth planning all the electrical appliances that will be used. Here you can use your imagination, since new devices can be purchased every year. Fantasy is useful from the point of view that it will allow you to create wiring with a reserve, that is, a home network that will be relevant in 20 years.

As you understand, these features directly affect the organization of electrical wiring in a country house and the area adjacent to it. Now let's look at how you can organize the wiring itself and how to draw up its diagram?

Effect of moisture on wiring

The second feature of a country house is that it is used temporarily. In most cases, country houses are used during the summer. In cold weather, dachas, so to speak, are left to their own devices. That is, at this time the owners practically do not visit them. How does this fact affect the wiring?

It is worth mentioning here that in cold weather dampness increases in country houses. In essence, dampness is increased humidity. And moisture is the main enemy of electricity. As a result, moisture accumulates on the wires, their connections and in the internal contacts of the sockets. In some cases, condensation settles. This manifests itself when the owner arrives at his country house and begins to heat it.

Moisture and condensation lead to oxidation and destruction of contacts. The situation gets worse when a powerful current begins to pass through these contacts. As a result, they become very hot. The end result of this is premature failure of the electrical wiring and the need to install a new one.

The only option to prevent this problem is to maintain the same temperature in the country house. But there is no point in heating a house if no one lives in it. As a result, experts recommend laying the wiring in an open way. This will allow for quick replacement of damaged wires and there will be no need to destroy the plaster in order to install new wiring.

Another feature of a country house is that the plot on which it is located is isolated. This means that in order to ground the electrical wiring near a country house, you need to install a grounding loop. Lightning protection is also mandatory.

Why you should contact us

Experienced employees of the 3rd and 4th categories with a tolerance of up to 1000 Volts.

All work is carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.05.06-85, PUE ed. 6.7 in compliance with safety measures SNiP 12-03-2001

We conclude an agreement with a precise description of the work and deadlines for delivery of the object

We carry out the work within the deadlines established by the contract.

We use materials from leading manufacturers ABB, Legrand, Schneider Electric.

All consultations are FREE!

Our company has more than 10 years of experience, working with objects of any level of complexity

Our specialist will come to the site completely free of charge

We choose energy saving solutions:

• Rational construction of supply, distribution and group networks in order to reduce system losses in them
• The use of lighting devices with energy-saving lamps and LEDs
• Application of low resistivity wires
• The use of protection devices that prevent excess consumption
• Application in the project of equipment with a low value of the reactive component of power

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