There are times when a household requires an extension cord with certain characteristics: a specific length or a non-standard number of sockets is needed. The device, assembled with your own hands, is absolutely safe. If the assembly rules are followed and there is grounding, it can last for more than one year. This article tells you how to make an extension cord with your own hands and what to pay attention to during installation in order to increase its service life.
We cut the cables and mount the modules
Every electrician will confirm that working with a tool specifically designed for a particular operation is easier and more enjoyable.
You can cut the cables inside the shield with a regular construction knife, but if you do it with a special knife with a heel, everything turns out faster and better. After cutting the cables, you should re-label the wires, since there will be quite a lot of them and if you get tangled in them, it will take a lot of time to restore order. When feeding cables into the shield, you should leave a length that is equal to twice the height of the shield, that is, run the cable through the entire shield, and then measure out the same amount. This measure is not wasteful: the wires inside the shield do not go in a straight line, but along an intricate curved line, and it is better to have a little extra wire left than not enough.
There are no strict rules for the arrangement of modules in the electrical panel; however, electricians usually use one of two installation schemes - linear or group. In the first case, all elements are arranged one after another in the order shown on the single-line diagram: automatic input device, RCD, automatic circuit breakers, consumer circuit breakers. Among the advantages of this location option is ease of implementation, the disadvantage is that it is difficult to find the “culprit” of the emergency situation.
If a group layout of modules is implemented in the panel, the components alternate among consumer groups: AV input, RCD, group of switches linked to this RCD. Next, the next RCD and the corresponding group of circuit breakers are installed. Such a circuit is somewhat more difficult to assemble, but the problem line is immediately visible from the triggered RCD.
Types of light sources for the garage
Characteristics of various light sources
There are four types of light bulbs suitable for domestic spaces. Their comparative properties are presented in the table.
Incandescent lamps
A classic version, familiar to everyone since childhood. The advantages include the low cost of the lighting device, reliable operation at sub-zero temperatures and in conditions of high humidity and dust. Good color rendering index: colors are not distorted. But incandescent lamps do not burn for long and consume a lot of electricity. The light output from them is the lowest. The light is warm. To protect against glass bulb fragments, it is recommended to place incandescent lamps in a special protective shade.
Halogen lamps
Similar in design to incandescent lamps, only iodine or bromine is added to the inert gas in the flask. Due to the addition of halogens, service life and light output are increased. A halogen lamp can withstand sub-zero temperatures, humidity and dust, but breaks due to voltage surges. Costs more than an incandescent lamp. Energy consumption is high. It is advisable not to mix used lamps with ordinary glass, since the halogen bulb is made of quartz glass. It is undesirable to touch halogen light sources with bare hands - this will cause the bulb to blacken and damage the lamp. The light is warm.
Fluorescent lamps (FL)
Fluorescent lamps are much more expensive than incandescent lamps. The flask is filled with mercury vapor, which makes the light source dangerous if the integrity of the flask is damaged. Additionally, there are difficulties with disposal: it is prohibited to throw away LL with household waste. It takes time to warm up before reaching the power level declared by the manufacturer. LLs do not work well at temperatures below +5⁰. They are sensitive to voltage changes, high humidity, and frequent switching on and off. Low color rendering index. The advantages of fluorescent lamps include low energy consumption, long service life, and high level of light output.
Light-emitting diode (LED) lamps
They have the highest level of luminous efficiency and burn longer than other types. Continue to work if the bulb is damaged. They shine at low temperatures and high humidity. They have a wide range of color temperatures:
- warm white (warm white, WW) – color temperature 2800-3300 K;
- neutral white (NW) – 3300-5000 K;
- cold white (cool white, CW) – over 5000 K.
A cool or neutral color is more suitable for a garage, depending on how long you work in it. Cold light invigorates, increases performance, but over a long period of time causes discomfort to the eyes and nervous system. Cold is suitable for short-term use. For long-term work, it is better to choose neutral light. LED light bulbs are energy efficient: they consume the least amount of electricity. The disadvantages of LED lamps include high price and sensitivity to voltage changes. Some models are powered by 12V, which will require additional equipment.
Thus, when choosing lamps for a garage, first of all, you should be guided by the duration of operation in it. For short visits, an incandescent or halogen lamp is sufficient. When working for a long time, it is better to use LED light sources: having spent money on purchasing light bulbs, you will forget about replacing them for a long time and save on electricity bills. Fluorescent lamps are best used in a heated garage. And in an unheated room they should be duplicated with incandescent or halogen lamps.
Preparing to assemble the extension cord
Before making an extension cord, you first need to decide on its purpose. This will allow you to determine the possibility of connecting certain devices, as well as the maximum permissible power. These factors have a direct impact on the choice of cable cross-section and other components. It is recommended to select all parameters with a small margin, so that in the future there is the possibility of connecting more powerful electrical equipment.
First of all, you need to buy a wire that will be used as a cord. The best option is considered to be PVS copper wire, which is characterized by increased flexibility. If there is a grounding contact in the socket, the wire must be three-core, but if it is absent, a cable with two cores can be used. When purchasing, you should carefully study the product labeling.
If the brand “PVA 3 x 1.5” is indicated, this means that the wire is three-core and the core cross-section is 1.5 mm. These parameters allow you to connect a load with a power of up to 3.5 kW. For a power of 5 kW, a cross-section of 2.5 mm will be required. The data for calculations can be taken in a special table, which will significantly speed up the solution to the question of how to make an extension cord with your own hands.
When choosing a cross-section, it is necessary to take into account the conductor length factor. For example, if the cable length is more than 100 meters, then during operation there may be a voltage drop due to the connection of high-power devices. Therefore, it is recommended to choose a cable with a larger cross-section than that provided in the calculation table.
Then you need to choose the right electrical plug, which should be removable. It is not recommended to purchase Euro-type products if you plan in advance to use sockets of an old design. Otherwise, you will additionally need an adapter. On the body of each plug there is a marking indicating the maximum current. For example, at 16A you will need a cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm, and for 25A the cross-section will be 2.5 mm. If there is a ground connection, the plug must have a grounding pin in its design.
It is not recommended to choose a single outlet. The socket block should be at least double, and preferably with three or four elements. When choosing, you need to be very careful so as not to accidentally buy an overhead structure designed for use with open wiring. It does not have a special clamp that protects against accidental pulling out, and over time the back cover of such sockets falls out. For extension cords, there are separate options in the form of socket strips or cable sockets. If you need to connect a computer or other office equipment, then in this case a surge protector is made, which has a push-button switch and light indication.
After all the materials are prepared, you can begin assembling the extension cord. This procedure is carried out using a knife, screwdriver and pliers.
Making an extension cord: step-by-step instructions
As a rule, the manufacturing process does not take much time, so if you have all the necessary elements and tools, you can make an electrical extension cord in 15 - 20 minutes. To do this, follow these steps:
- Disassemble the fork; as a rule, it is unscrewed with one or more bolts, but the design may differ in different models. Rice. 1: Disassemble the plug
- Cut the electrical cable; to do this, remove the required length from the point where it is connected to the plug contacts to the point where the extension cord exits the plug. It should be noted that at the exit point the cable must have both layers of insulation, so you should not strip the top layer of dielectric with a margin. Fig 2. cut the cable
- Prepare a wire to connect to the plug terminals. To do this, step back about 1 - 2 cm from the edge of each core and carefully trim the rubber insulation. Rice. 3. Strip the ends
Be careful not to cut the core wire, otherwise this will reduce the cross-section and may lead to further overheating at the attachment point.
- Depending on the method of fastening in the plug contacts, prepare the ends of the wire (make loops, twist into one core, etc.).
- Do all these procedures for the second end of the wire.
- Connect the ends of the wire to the ends of the plug and assemble it. Figure 4: Connect the wire to the plug terminal
Please note that the assembled fork should not have any gaps - both parts fit snugly against each other. If you find a gap, disassemble it again and eliminate the cause of the unevenness. Where it exits the plug, the extension cord should fit snugly against the edges; if its diameter is not enough, add a little electrical tape.
As a standard, they are equipped with one bolt in the center of the socket, but if the cover does not budge, you should inspect the structure for the presence of additional fastening points.
Rice. 7: standard socket mounting point
- Connect the ends of the wires to the corresponding outlet terminals of the electrical extension cord.
Rice. 8: Connect the wire to the socket terminals
If you are making a device for a three-wire network, be sure to follow the wire markings. Especially for the ground wire, otherwise you may apply voltage to the body of the device.
- Reassemble the socket in reverse order, the electrical extension cord is ready.
Rice. 9: assemble the socket - the extension cord is ready
Please note that when connecting certain parts, contact must be ensured using special clamps, sleeves or by soldering. It is under no circumstances allowed to ensure contact only by screwing the wire to the lamellas or other parts. After making an electrical extension cord, do not rush to plug it into the outlet; first check its serviceability using a multimeter.
Checking the serviceability of the electrical extension cord.
To check the functionality of the carrier, you will need a regular multimeter or megohmmeter. The whole process can be divided into checking the integrity of the line and checking the insulation. Initially set the multimeter to dialing mode:
- Connect one lead of the multimeter to the socket of the outlet, and touch the second lead to the plug of the electrical extension cord. If the device does not report a circuit, touch the second prong of the plug.
- Hold the multimeter probe on the same contact of the plug where the device showed the circuit, and check other sockets in the block. Their contacts of the same name should also provide a circuit for the continuity of the electrical extension cord.
- Check the second pair of contacts of the electrical sockets and the output of the extension plug; they should also show the presence of a continuity circuit.
- If you are using a three-wire extension cord, make the same connection between the grounding pins on the plug and each outlet.
Rice. 10: principle of continuity of the extension cord
The presence of a circuit between all of the listed terminals indicates that the extension cord can normally transmit electricity in a closed circuit. But, in addition to the circuit, it is necessary to ensure the condition of the insulation. What is a megohmmeter used for? But if you don’t have one, you can use the same multimeter in insulation measurement mode. For industrial purposes, measuring insulation with a multimeter is not permissible, but for domestic needs this will be quite sufficient.
During the measurement process, you need to set a limit on the maximum resistance value in kOhms or MOhms. Apply the probes to the phase and zero terminals on the plug; if the resistance is more than 500 MOhm or infinity, its level is sufficient for normal operation of the electrical extension cord.
Rice. 11: measurement of resistance between phase and zero
If the resistance approaches zero or is tens of ohms, you have broken the insulation somewhere and you need to double-check all electrical contacts in the extension cord. If there is a grounding contact, the resistance value must also be checked between phase - ground and between zero - ground.
Rice. 12: ground resistance measurement
If during testing you have determined the integrity of the phase, zero and ground circuits in the manufactured electrical extension cord, as well as a sufficient level of resistance between all terminals, then such a carrier can be safely used to connect equipment.
Hidden wiring in the house, and what are the requirements for it
One of the first requirements when installing hidden wiring is fire safety.
If structures are made of flammable materials or wood, due care should be taken when laying hidden wiring. To avoid ignition, wires should be hidden in pipes, corrugations made of steel or polyvinyl chloride.
Care should be taken to easily change cable elements, but unfortunately, almost no one follows this rule. In case of replacing wires or adding them, you have to spoil the repair and disassemble sections of wiring that have become unusable.
For ethical and economic reasons, wiring is laid strictly horizontally and vertically. This is necessary not only to save materials and work time, but also so that in the future there will be no questions about how to find old, hidden wiring.
At the very beginning of repair work, you should plan and mark the location of the wiring wires. You also immediately need to mark the points for electrical installations. The wiring diagram on the plan should be kept for future reference.
In hidden wiring you need to pay maximum attention to its electrical safety. Professional electricians recommend three-core cables, where there is a phase, neutral and ground.
Particular care should be taken to install a circuit breaker in case of voltage surge or wire short circuit.
How to choose a good garage lamp
Conventional incandescent lamps consume a lot of energy and have to be changed frequently. In addition, the case heats up quickly and such lamps are completely unsuitable for carrying. Another story is modern LEDs and fluorescent lamps. The question is which option to choose for carrying.
Fluorescent lamps - advantages and disadvantages
The power consumption is low, the operating life is long, but by the end of the service the luminous flux becomes extremely low, almost doubled. Flickering and decreased light levels cause severe eye strain when working in the garage, so it is not advisable to use such carriers all the time. They are good when carrying is needed exclusively for one-time work.
Since all these lamps contain mercury components, it is not advisable to use them for a carrying lamp.
Gas-filled lamps
They consume a little electricity, five times less than incandescent lamps, but the brightness quickly decreases. Service life is three years. It is better to choose such lamps to replace conventional incandescent lamps, when it is easier to create normal light in the garage than to bother with wires and carriers.
LEDs
Choose LEDs with warm white light for your garage; base E27, G13 is the most economical and convenient option.
Lamps that are optimally used for carrying and options for stationary lighting:
- if you need to make the light normal. throughout the garage, then choose LED lamps M-40/42 (passage). This is an analogue of fluorescent lamps with IP65 protection. These lamps are resistant to dirty work in the garage - dust and moisture. Power – 40 W;
- For carrying, you need to select LEDs with a lighting angle that can be adjusted (up to 75 degrees). The power supply for such light bulbs is from a 24V unit;
- Line Light diodes with a power of 14W do not heat up quickly and provide optimal local illumination;
- A strip of diodes for emergency lighting can also be powered from a battery (12V). Choose a warm white spectrum, such a strip (60 LEDs) consumes only 4.8 W;
- When carrying an LED light bulb, it is better to use a “corn” type light bulb with white light;
- fluorescent lamps Osram 4000k at 40W in combination with Epra at 57W (at 40W there will be little illumination) - the light is simply super for painting and inspection pits.
Another story - a clothespin flashlight. And your hands are free, and you don’t have to fuss with lighting angles and wires.
We offer several options for simple and effective designs of portable lamps for the garage.
Electrical wiring in a wooden house
When installing wiring, you should strictly observe safety precautions and precautions, especially if the house is wooden.
Installation of electrical wiring in such a house is carried out in accordance with the following requirements:
- In a wooden house, it is allowed to use a self-extinguishing cable with high-quality insulation.
- Distribution boxes must be made of metal.
- All wire connections must be sealed.
- If installation is carried out in an open way, then a porcelain insulator is laid under the cable.
- In case of installation of wiring in a closed way, a metal pipe or box (made of copper or steel) with grounding is required to be laid in the grooves. If plastic corrugation is used, it is installed in the plaster. This method is more reliable and aesthetically pleasing.
To ensure greater safety, it is recommended to install a residual current device in a wooden house that stops the machine in the event of a short circuit or current leakage.
If you look at the photo of the finished electrical wiring in the house, you can conclude that the work is not easy, but this task is quite doable. With careful preparation and study of the relevant materials, electrical wiring installation work will not cause you any difficulties.
Popular manufacturers
The current market is replete with well-known brands that produce high-quality surge protectors with built-in switches. Let's take a closer look at some popular companies.
- Atom . Another domestic brand that produces high-quality products of various types. The Atom assortment includes both classic models for household use with grounding, as well as universal coil models. Brand devices are inexpensive, but last a long time and are in great demand.
- Krauler . A large European manufacturer offering consumers a choice of extension cords of impeccable quality. The company's assortment includes both classic white devices with an on/off button, and black versions, which are no less actively purchased today.
- Schneider Electric . This well-known manufacturer offers reliable and practical extension cords. The brand's assortment includes not only household, but also reel-to-reel models of extension cords. The devices have an attractive design. Instances without additional connectors and outputs will be quite inexpensive. Higher price tags are charged for multifunctional items.
- Sonnen . A major manufacturer of electronics, household appliances and accessories. The brand appeared on the domestic market relatively recently, but has already managed to occupy its niche and gain popularity among buyers. In the brand's assortment you can find many economical and easy-to-use extension cords with a built-in switch. Most devices are equipped with a heat-resistant plastic housing.
Work order
First of all, a printed circuit board is prepared from a piece of foil PCB. On the purchased piece of PCB we mark the location of the circuit elements, mark the required dimensions of the board and cut it out.
We degrease the foil, clean it with fine sandpaper, and draw with a pencil a wiring diagram of the regulator that corresponds to the circuit diagram.
Use varnish (you can use nail polish) to outline the pencil drawing. After the varnish has dried, we lower the board into a bath of ferric chloride and etch out the copper foil that is not involved in the operation of the circuit.
We install a triac or thyristor on the radiator to remove heat.
What does connection actually look like in modern realities?
Considering the complexity of work in the bathroom, our people have come up with several ways to circumvent the ban.
- Buy a personal extension cord for only one device. In fact, another socket is also a kind of carrier, but laid in the wall according to all the rules of science.
- Carrying must be of high quality and grounded! Some people make their own, while others buy them in a store. For example, it has proven itself well. Its carriers are equipped with protection; in the event of a power outage or overheating, the device will turn off and prevent expensive equipment from burning out.
- Extend the cord to the required length. But here pitfalls emerge in the form of constant exposure of the door to the wire. It will gradually wear out and there will be a risk of short circuit, electric shock or fire.
The best way is to conduct grounded wiring from the panel directly to the bathroom and not worry!
What to do first
You bought a certain number of wires from the network of a new house, completed the wiring, its ends are connected to a control panel that has not yet been built into the wall, and there are automatic machines nearby. Remember: it is better to install one automatic packetizer or RCD at the entrance to the electric meter. There is no such thing as too much protection. Next, make a plan for connecting the wires to the arranged packages.
It is advisable to relieve the network by dividing it into zones - with heavy loads and normal ones: kitchen, living room-bedroom, corridor-toilet, veranda-basement. You will get confused with packets; the instructions for them describe currents, loads, and wiring cross-sections. Methods of contact with terminals and so on.
Is it possible to connect a heated floor to an outlet? In what cases is it strictly prohibited to do this?
2019-02-20 17:10:50 3 2394
- 1. Yes, you can, if it is an infrared heated floor.
There are, of course, features, which we will discuss below. - 2. No, you can’t.
If it is a heating cable or heating mat . Such an installation will violate the technology described in the instructions. Therefore, this system is not covered by the warranty. We will write recommendations below.
Buy infrared heated floor for 260 UAH/m2
Indeed, such a connection possibility exists, but the following factors should be taken into account.
In most cases, infrared film is connected directly to an outlet for small areas (0.5 m2, 1 m2) or for local temporary heating.
It is important to know that the power of the connected floor must correspond to the permissible load power of the outlet. In accordance with all safety rules, connected floors are equipped with a separate power cable and RCD devices
For example, you want to heat the space under your desk, but you don’t have the opportunity to install a thermostat, or you need to make a shoe dryer in the hallway. Infrared film is well suited for these purposes; you turn it on and off as needed.
In this case, you should pay special attention to your own safety, insulate the connections well and do not leave such systems unattended
You also need to understand this fact - without a thermostat, the heating element heats continuously, let’s say this is a piece of film under the carpet at a computer desk.
It will work well and efficiently, but it will also consume electricity constantly until it is turned off.
One square meter of such film consumes 220 W per hour, for 10 hours of operation this will be 2.2 kW, the same power consumed by a similar heated floor with a regulator, but its area is 5-6 sq.m.
There are thermostats that plug into an outlet; they can help if installing the film under the coating is not possible.
Also remember about children and pets who show interest in everything (especially new things); if you have any, we recommend that you abandon such systems.
How to assemble an electrical extension cord with your own hands
At the first stage, the top insulating layer is removed from both sides of the cable by approximately 5-7 cm, after which the ends of each core are stripped to 1 cm. Next, the plug is disassembled by unscrewing the fastening bolt. After this, you need to loosen the screws on the clamp that secures the cable inside the plug body. Then the stripped wires are connected to the two plug contacts.
The location of the conductors does not matter; the most important thing is to correctly connect the grounding contacts on sockets and plugs. After connecting the conductors, the plug is reassembled.
At the final stage, the socket block is disassembled and two conductor cores are connected to the contacts. The third wire is connected to the ground pin, exactly the same as on the plug. Thus, both ground contacts are connected by a single wire.
If the core consists of many wires, then it is recommended to solder it or fix it with a tip. As a last resort, you can simply twist the wires using pliers. After all connections, the cable is fixed inside the housing and the final assembly of the unit is performed. The finished extension cord is checked by plugging it into a home electrical outlet or using a multimeter.
Making a carrying reel
There's an electric cable
The main thing when working with electricity is safety. Therefore, to make the cable carrier we will use only dielectric materials.
You will also need:
- hacksaw for metal
- jigsaw
- screwdriver with a set of bits
- glue
- dye
The carrier will consist of a body made of a canister and a spool for winding the wire.
Stage No. 1 - making a spool
We will use a PVC pipe as a spool.
We measure the width of the canister and mark this size on the pipe, departing from the outer edge.
We drill a hole in the middle of the pipe on one wall - a place for the wire to come out.
At this stage, we complete manipulations with the pipe , since it will be needed to apply markings to other elements of the homemade product.
Stage No. 2 – spool handle
The rotation of the spool will be carried out using a plexiglass handle.
To do this, on a sheet of dielectric with a previously prepared pipe (spool), we mark the place where the handle is attached. We also draw the shape of the future pen in any form. You need 2 pieces of such blanks.
We cut according to the markings; for this we use a jigsaw and a drill with a crown. We sand the blanks.
We glue the resulting parts together, sand them and paint them as shown in the photo above.
Stage No. 3 - preparing the canister
Mark and cut out
The spool will be exactly in the center, so we make markings on both sides of the canister.
The diameters of the holes for the pipe are different, so we mark them using a prepared PVC pipe.
We drill holes with a crown or cut out with a knife.
Stage No. 4 - gluing the spool and handle
The spool is completely ready
The paint on the plexiglass has dried, so you can glue the handle to the pipe.
But before that, you need to drill a hole on the handle for the bolt, which will be used for rotation. It should look like the one shown in the photo above.
Stage No. 5 – final assembly
We assemble the entire structure: we insert the wire through the spool, then through the canister and its lid. Everything should turn out as shown in the diagram below.
How to make an electric baby carrier with a switch
I welcome you, dear readers, to my website.
And today we will talk about how to make an electric carrier with a switch with your own hands. Agree with me that at home it is very difficult to do without an extension cord. I use this miracle of technology every day. My computer and all the other components for it are included in the carrier with a block of four sockets. However, I think it’s the same for many people. It’s unlikely that anyone at home has a place where there are three or four sockets at once.
And if the house is also undergoing renovation, then there is no way to do it without an extension cord. Since you will need to connect the power tool in any case. And if several people are doing the repairs, then carrying one socket will not be enough for them. You need to make an extension cord with several sockets at once. Because if people work in turns, it will take too much time.
You can, of course, take a simpler route, just go to any hardware store or market and buy several carriers at once. By the way, recently carriers in the form of a coil of wire wound on a reel have appeared on the market.
But such coils are not always convenient to carry with you, and besides, if you need to turn on something powerful, such as welding, then all this wire must be completely unwound from the reel.
Now imagine if you have 50 meters in a bay and all this wire is spread out around the house or apartment, or worse, in one room. It will simply be difficult for you to move without getting entangled in these networks.
Accessories for assembling an electric carrier.
In order to assemble a good and reliable carrier, you first need to decide what devices you will include in it, and calculate the total power.
But if there are no serious loads, then you can assemble the carrier using the simplest components.
Let's start with choosing a wire. If the total load of all devices does not exceed 2 kW, then for carrying you can use a wire with a cross-section of 1 mm 2. And the socket and plug must withstand a current of 10 A.
Usually the manufacturer writes on the body of their products what voltage and current they are designed for, so I advise you to pay attention to this when purchasing. If the load is about 3 kW, then you need to take a wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm 2
And the socket and plug must withstand a load of 16 A
If the load is about 3 kW, then you need to take a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm 2. And the socket and plug must withstand a load of 16 A.
If the load is within 5 kW, then the wire must have a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm 2. But the current with such a load will be about 23 A. So you need to buy the appropriate type of plug and socket.
Now, as for the brand of wire. The fact is that carriers very often have to be twisted and untwisted, so I advise you to take only PVA wire.
The wire of this brand has a stranded core and good insulation, which makes it flexible and will last a long time. And wires with a monolithic core are not suitable for carrying.
List of materials for making the carrier yourself:
- Collapsible electrical plug (designed for the power you need);
- Socket or block of sockets (several sockets);
- Wire of the required length and appropriate cross-section;
- NShVI lugs for crimping stranded wires (although if you carry small loads, you can do without lugs).
- screwdriver;
- pliers;
- press jaws;
- knife or special device for stripping insulation from wires.
Materials for homemade carrying
To make an extension cord with your own hands, you will need:
But this set seems banal only to the untrained eye. The fact is that depending on the cable parameters:
- Wire material;
- Type of insulation;
- Conductor cross-sectional area;
- Lengths.
It will depend on how much total power of electrical appliances can be powered through a homemade extension cord.
Ratio of maximum power and wire length
It is best to gradate extension cords according to the connected power and cable length. For example, when used inside an apartment, the maximum load can rarely exceed 3 kW:
- TV - 100 W;
- Iron - 1000 W;
- Microwave - 1.8 kW;
- Laptop + router + 3 LED lamps - 100 W.
IMPORTANT: devices must not only be connected, but simultaneously operate at maximum load.
For a cottage or garage, it is better to make a carrier designed for higher power, well, at least 6 kW. But here the cable length factor intervenes. The dependence can be seen in the table.
For an apartment, a 10 meter long carrier will cover the needs in 99.9% of cases. For a summer house, garage and other household needs, it is better to make an extension cord on a reel with your own hands, with a cable 40-50 meters long. This will a priori solve almost all possible needs.
Cable or wire
Unlike a wire, a cable has additional, general insulation of conductors, which allows it to be laid in the ground, or temporarily placed on the ground, in the open air. Therefore, for indoor use, you can use a wire, and for universal carrying, a cable.
IMPORTANT: for extension cords, always use only cable products with stranded copper cores.
The main requirement for an extension cable is flexibility. Therefore, when choosing materials, all types of cables with aluminum conductors, as well as single-core copper wires, are eliminated from the list of candidates.
FOR REFERENCE: according to GOST 15845-80, a stranded cable should be distinguished from a cable with a stranded copper core. In the first case, each core inside the cable has its own insulation. In the second case, several thin wires are twisted into one core and have a common insulation.
The electrical cable for the extension cord must be marked PVS or PBPPG. Their difference is that PBPPG is flat, and PVS is round.
There must be three wires in the cable! Grounding is a function of an extension cord that is better to have and not use than to complain about its absence after a tragic incident.
Fork
As practice shows, it is best to make an extension cord with a straight plug.
The wire fits to it along the axis, without bending. In some cases, this feature can be decisive when connecting in places with poor access. An eyelet on the plug makes it easier to disconnect and can be used for hanging.
Almost all plugs have a ground connection. Protection class not lower than IP44.
What does IP44 protection class provide?
If the connection at the plug and socket is correctly assembled, then the IP44 protection class allows you to leave them in wet rooms, they are not afraid of splashes. If the contact group is suspended above the ground, then the carrier can be left in the rain.
Socket block
There are two categories of products that are very similar in appearance
- Overhead sockets;
- Block (block) of sockets.
Such devices are easily distinguished when viewed from the back.
Please note that the socket block does not have special holes or slots for fastening on the back side. For the extension cord, you need to select exactly the socket block.
It may come with a switch
It doesn't make any fundamental difference. But do not forget that grounding must be required.
How to choose the protection class of a portable socket block is important if the extension cord will be used outside the apartment, such as in the country house, in the garage or even in nature. For universal carrying, the marking must indicate IP44.
Current/Power Relationship
On household appliances, the power consumption is usually indicated. But on electrical installation products, the permissible load is indicated in Amperes (A). To compare these values, there is a formula I=P/U, where:
- I - current strength in Amperes;
- P - power in Watts;
- U is voltage in Volts.
Since our voltage will be 220 V, we will have to operate with two variables, power and current. For example, carrying is needed to connect devices with a total power of 3 kW. Therefore, the permissible current at the plug and socket should be: 3000/220 = 13.63 A.
To select the right electrical installation product, it is necessary to round up the calculated current values, increasing. That is, on the plug and on the socket block there should be an inscription 15 A.
Operating principle of a triac power regulator
The operating principle of a triac power regulator consists of the unique properties of a triac, which operates as a controlled relay.
A triac is two silicon controlled rectifiers (SCR), connected back to back, which allows current to flow in both directions and the triac is used for switching and transmitting alternating current.
When the control terminal is de-energized, there is no voltage at the main terminals, since the VCUs block the electrical circuit.
When voltage is applied to the control terminal, both KUVs open and alternating current flows through the triac.
The triac is used in various devices:
- switch for switching on the electrical load;
- regulators:
- brightness of light;
- electric motor rotation speed;
- power.
Security measures
When using an extension cord, the following precautions must be observed:
- do not allow use with an electrical load higher than permissible;
- avoid getting water inside;
- monitor the integrity and serviceability of plugs, sockets and cords;
- repairs can only be made when switched off;
- Do not lay the wire under carpets, wallpaper, or through door thresholds;
- Do not twist or bend the cord.
With your own hands you can make a reliable and convenient extension cord that will meet your requirements and cost less than a ready-made analogue.
DIY extension cord.
Extension cords are widely used in both homes and offices. Stores offer a wide range of different extension cords from different manufacturers.
But quite often it is difficult to choose an extension cord of the required length, designed for the required power, and there is also a risk of buying low-quality products. The optimal solution is to make an extension cord yourself.
First, you need to decide what the extension cord will be used for, what power devices you plan to connect through it, and it is advisable to provide a reserve for the future. It is quite possible that over time there will be a need to turn on devices of higher power, in which case the power reserve will allow you to avoid troubles that may arise and eliminate the need to purchase a new extension cord.
In the article why an extension cord burns out, it is discussed in detail what consequences can result from turning on a powerful load through an extension cord if it is not intended for this purpose.
The extension cord consists of three main components:
— socket block;
— cable, usually PVA brand is used;
- electrical plug.
The socket block and plug are usually available with a maximum current of 10A (2.2 kW) or 16A (3.5 kW). Accordingly, if you plan to connect devices with a total power of about 2 kW, a plug and a 10A socket block are sufficient, the wire cross-section should be at least 1.0 mm 2.
If devices with a power of more than 2 kW will be connected, it is necessary to purchase a 16A plug and socket block, the wire cross-section must be at least 1.5 mm 2.
In our example, we will assemble an extension cord for connecting devices no more than 2 kW. Plug and socket block 10A, wire PVS-2x1.0.
Since most apartments still use two-wire electrical wiring, for example, we will assemble a two-wire extension cord without grounding.
We unscrew the four screws and disassemble the socket block. Inside there is a contact group with two screw terminals to which the wires are connected.
Unscrew one screw and disassemble the plug.
We cut the wire to the required length, remove the outer insulation from the side of the socket block and the plug to the required length.
Stranded wire is easy to use, it is soft and flexible, but when connected to screw terminals, the wires are compressed and the contact may be broken, sparking and heating may occur. Therefore, it is advisable to use NShVI crimping tips or solder them.
If you have press pliers, then crimp the wires of the socket block with lugs.
The tip is inserted into a screw clamp and securely fixed with a screw.
We put the top cover of the plug on the wire, strip the wires to the required length and tighten it with a ring that matches the size of the screw with which it will be clamped.
If there are no press pliers, then solder the stripped wires from the plug side and from the side of the socket block.
In the socket block, we insert the wires into the clamp and tighten them with screws. We secure the wire itself to the body of the socket block with a clamping strip and two screws so that the wires do not pull out from the screw clamps during operation. We also secure the wires to the plug using screws and washers. We assemble the plug and socket block.
We check the correct assembly of the extension cord with a multimeter. We switch the device switch to resistance or buzzer measurement mode. We connect one probe into one of the sockets of the socket block, and with the other probe we touch one of the contacts of the plug. If we connect the device to one wire, then the multimeter should show zero resistance or the buzzer will beep. If to different wires, then the multimeter should show a break (1), and the buzzer should not beep. We rearrange the probe in the socket block and repeat the test. If everything is so, the extension cord is ready and you can use it.
Watch the step-by-step video on How to assemble an extension cord with your own hands
Find out why an extension cord burns out?
Tools and materials needed for work
First you need to decide on the cross-section of the wire used as the cord. We recommend using copper wire.
If the extension cord will be connected to a grounded outlet, we recommend purchasing a three-core wire.
It is also worth deciding on the wire cross-section. A wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm can withstand a load of up to 3.5 kilowatts.
If you plan to connect devices with a larger capacity, then it is advisable to use a wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm. This wire can withstand loads of up to 5 kilowatts.
To make an extension cord that uses high power, we recommend finding tables on specialized forums or websites of cable manufacturers. They indicate the wire cross-section and the power for which they are designed.
You should carefully consider the choice of plug. If your sockets are of an old design, you should not purchase a Euro plug.
Try to decide on the number of outlets that will be required for the extension cord. It is not advisable to use a single outlet.
Of course, if necessary, you can connect a home-made extension cord with a factory-made version that has several outlets. But it is advisable to provide two or three sockets in the manufactured version.
When purchasing a block with sockets, try not to confuse it with the option that is used when working with open wiring. The back part of such pads very often falls out; there are no clamps to protect against the forks accidentally falling out of the socket.
How to make your own extension cord
The cable length is selected at your discretion. The ends of the cable wires (without insulation) are etched with soldering acid or alcohol-rosin flux, then a small layer of soldering tin is applied to the bare ends of the wires. The extension cord contacts are also etched and soldered to the ends of the cable wires (in the absence of a bolted connection).
You select the socket for the extension cord in the same way, depending on the number of connected household appliances.
Assembling the extension
I believe that these photographs do not require any explanation for assembling the extension cord. The only thing is that before connecting each wire, you need to ring the wires in order to prevent mistakes when making contact connections.
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Electrical plug - with grounding
If your apartment has a grounding bus connected to a grounding loop, the cable is accordingly selected for three wires: phase, neutral, and ground. The plug is selected taking into account the expected load; usually such plugs are rated at 10 Amps - for household needs.
The range of choice of such plugs is large and when purchasing, you can consult with a sales consultant, explaining what load you will be connected to the extension cord. Before connecting the wires to the plug, it is advisable to solder the bare ends of the wires with tin. Applying a small layer of tin to the bare ends of the cable wires is performed for a reliable contact connection in order to equalize the resistance at the contact transitions.
That's all for now. Follow the section.
What you need to buy for an extension cord
A homemade carrier is made from almost any materials that are at hand. These could be “ancient” household appliances, pieces of wires, etc. If you don’t have any of this in your household, you will have to spend money on purchasing it.
So, you will need:
- Dismountable plug;
- A piece of cable of the required size;
- Enclosed electrical socket;
In order to build an extension cord, you will need a screwdriver that is suitable in size and shape. You will also need wire cutters and a knife to remove the insulating layer of the wire.
It is recommended to select all materials for each individual case, this will help to avoid excessive heating.
Repair - what to do if the surge protector button is broken
If, when you turn on the surge protector button, extraneous sounds begin to be heard, which are accompanied by the smell of melting plastic, the device should be immediately de-energized. Next, you need to disassemble the surge protector and check the condition of the contacts on the switch.
To do this you will need the following tools:
- soldering iron,
- crosshead screwdriver,
- tester,
- sandpaper-zero.
If the contacts are burnt out, the tester readings will confirm this (in this case, there will be no voltage at the output from the button in the “On” position). To clean the contacts, the switch needs:
- Disassemble the surge protector housing by unscrewing the mounting screws;
- Unsolder the button and remove it from the filter housing. The button is held in the housing by plastic clips, which should be carefully squeezed out.
- Disassemble. To do this, you need to disconnect the key by picking it up with a flat-head screwdriver.
- Take out the contacts and clean off any black deposits.
- Assemble the button. After this, we assemble the button in the reverse order, install it in place and solder it.
If the contacts have burned very badly and melted the plastic of the switch housing, it should be completely replaced.
To do this you need:
- Disassemble the filter;
- Unsolder the button;
- Remove the switch from the housing;
- Install a new one in its place (sold in radio parts stores, costs about 30 rubles);
- Solder the button and assemble the filter housing.
Often the button on the surge protector does not work due to mechanical damage. The most common case is the breakdown of the latches that hold the switch key in the housing. In this case, it is not necessary to buy a new button - the latches can be restored.
To do this you will need the following materials and tools:
- screwdriver (or drill) and drill with a diameter of 3.5 mm;
- toothpick;
- cotton swab;
- side cutters.
The process itself is very simple:
- A through hole is drilled in the key into which a cotton swab is inserted (it will act as a latch).
- A toothpick is inserted inside the cotton swab for greater rigidity. On both sides, the improvised retainer is trimmed with side cutters so that on each side it protrudes approximately 3-4 mm.
- Now all that remains is to insert the key into the body - to do this, just slightly bend the sides of the seat with a screwdriver.
VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS ” alt=””>
Most common situations
So, now we will do the following: we will consider each specific case that can happen in everyday life, and we will immediately provide instructions on how to properly extend the wire and cable.
Situation 1 - A core in the wall or ceiling has broken.
Wires often break in the socket box or at the place where the chandelier is attached. As a result, the devices do not work. It would seem like a simple task - to restore the electricity supply you just need to connect 1 wire. But when stripping, you realized that this would not be possible due to lack of length - the core broke off at the root.
You also have to do this if you decide to move an outlet or switch to another location and one of the wires breaks off during electrical work, you need to act depending on the situation that has arisen.
If the length of the core remaining on the surface is sufficient for extension, install the terminal block and extend the short conductor with the same cross-section and material. If there is a very short conductor left in the wall, break up a section of the wall, release a sufficient length of power cable for extension, strip the core to a metallic color and lengthen the section.
This way you can build up electrical wiring in the junction box or on the ceiling to connect a chandelier or any other lamp (for example, a sconce on the wall).
Situation 2 - You need to extend the cable in the water.
This happens if you need to extend the wire for a submersible well pump. All you need is to connect the spliced cores through the terminal block, and then insulate the extension area using heat shrink tubing, as shown in the photo below. The wire of the submersible pump must be attached to the pipe and cable so that there is no load on it, but additionally take care of the connection point and make a small loop when installing it.
It is recommended to insulate the exposed area using heat-shrink tubing, even if there is a need to extend the wire in the bathroom or outdoors, in order to protect the electrical wiring from high humidity.
Situation 3 - It is necessary to extend the cable to power a powerful electrical appliance in the apartment.
Another situation that needs to be taken seriously is extending the wire to connect powerful household appliances. For example, if you decide to connect an oven, air conditioner or electric stove and the copper conductor at your input has broken off (its cross-section must be at least 6 mm2), the terminal block will not work here, because the current loads from the electrical appliance will be significant. In this situation, it is recommended to extend the wire by soldering, and then carefully insulate the area with electrical tape. This can also be done by lengthening it using crimping sleeves or welding.
Situation 4 - The length of the wire of the temperature sensor of the heated floor system is not enough to connect to the thermostat.
In this case, it is recommended that you first read the instructions supplied with the temperature controller, and if no restrictions are specified, feel free to use the PVA wire and extend the cable for the thermostat yourself, using the same terminal blocks.
Situation 5 - It is necessary to extend the wire of the LED strip for hidden ceiling lighting or the strip itself.
There shouldn't be any difficulties in this situation. There are special connectors that allow you to extend the LED strip (photo below). The main thing is to take into account the requirements that we provided when we looked at tips for connecting an RGB strip with your own hands. The wire to the tape is extended using any of the methods described above.
Situation 6 - The twisted pair cable is damaged.
In this case, you can extend the section with a new twisted pair using twisting or soldering. The main thing is to carefully insulate each extension point so that the exposed wires do not touch each other. It is also convenient to do this using adhesive tape; by the way, network installers love them and often use them.
Instructions for extending a broken core
That's all I wanted to tell you about how to extend a wire in an outlet, under water and in other unusual situations. We hope that now extending electrical cables and wires will not cause you any difficulties when installing electrical wiring yourself!
How to assemble an extension cord on a reel
A semi-professional extension cord should provide current transmission with a power of 32 A per 50 m. For example, power a bathhouse in the country. The total power of the devices will be 7 kW! In this case, you will need a three-core stranded cable 3x10 mm. 50 meters of such cable weighs about 20 kg.
Only using a coil will it be clear how to make an electric carrier weighing more than 20 kg.
Where to get a reel
There are two options:
- Make/order a welded frame, cut out two circles from thick plywood, buy studs, bolts and nuts, assemble such a structure. The cost of the product will be 1.5-2 thousand rubles.
- Buy a reel without cable for 300-500 rubles.
But you will additionally need a set of electrical installation products with IP44 protection, rated for 32 A.
Assembly and operation of an extension cord on a reel
Connect the plug and socket block to the wires according to the diagram described above, with the same sealing control.
As long as the cable is completely removed from the reel, it does not matter where the plug is located, inside the reel or outside.
Briefly about the main thing
Most often, for the manufacture of street extension cords, rubber-insulated conductors KG and its European analogue XYMM, KG-HL, KGN and cables with a polyvinyl chloride sheath PVA and PRS are used. Each of them has its own operating characteristics and recommendations for use.
When choosing a carrier, the following number of parameters are taken into account:
- Length and number of sockets.
- Brand, conductor cross-section.
- Protection from destruction.
- Fork modification.
- Resistance to external conditions and network fluctuations.
When selecting a conductor for the manufacture of an extension cord, it is necessary to determine its power loss and the risk factor for the sheath fire from possible heating.
Everything is ready for installation
So, the diagram has been drawn up and understood, the components have been prepared - nothing prevents you from starting assembling the electrical panel. First of all, the location of the shield is selected, on which the device is attached, as a rule, with self-tapping screws or clamps. The electrical panel housing is usually located near the entrance to the house or apartment - in the vestibule or hallway. If the owner has expressed a desire to hide the panel in the wall, and the wall turns out to be concrete, you can use a false wall or a plasterboard ledge: the area of the room may be slightly reduced.
When choosing a place on the wall to install an electrical panel, you should take into account that the distance from the device to the nearest doorway should be at least 15 cm, the distance to the floor - 1.5–1.7 m. If necessary, the owner of the home or a called electrician should be able to easily reach the panel : It is strictly prohibited to place the device inside cabinets or other furniture. The device should be located away from gas pipes and flammable materials.
To prevent the electrical panel from being too large or small, you can first determine its size by knowing the dimensions of the components that will be located in it. For example, the width of a standard single-pole circuit breaker is 17.5 mm, a two-pole circuit breaker is 35 mm, and a three-pole circuit breaker is 52.5 mm. The remaining components have the following dimensions:
- RCD single-phase two-module - 35 mm;
- Three-phase four-module RCD - 70 mm;
- single-phase two-module difavtomat - 70 mm;
- terminal block on DIN rail - 17.5 mm (1 module);
- counter (6–8 modules) – 105–140 mm;
- voltage relay of 3 modules - 52.5 mm; This is not a mandatory element of the shield, but when used, you can protect equipment from power surges or sags, and save household appliances such as a refrigerator, TV, computer and other electronics from failure;
- DIN rail socket (3 modules) - 52.5 mm.
The modules are located on the so-called DIN rail - a special metal plate 35 mm wide. The socket is not one of the required elements, but may be useful during repair work. If, when summing up the number of components, it turns out that a panel with 20 modules is needed, then it would be reasonable to install an electrical panel with 24 or even 32 modules - who can know how many household electrical appliances will be added to the house in a year, two or five?
The most common installation mistakes
During installation of the socket block, the following errors may be made that can affect the visual appeal or performance of the product:
- Use for connecting to an aluminum wire by twisting the conductor with a copper core. Such an error can lead to contact failure due to oxidation and failure of the product. The cores of the connected current-carrying wires must be either made of the same metal or connected through a terminal block
- Using a flat wire with a single layer of insulation and embedding it in the wall without placing it in plastic or corrugated tubing. This method was previously permitted, but the use of additional containment is now recommended.
- Application for the manufacture of jumpers of wires of different sections. This cannot be called a gross mistake, but for these purposes it is recommended to use a core with a cross-sectional area equal to the cross-section of the electrical wiring
- Connecting the RE conductor in a daisy chain method, that is, using jumpers between the sockets. As mentioned above, this method is considered a violation of the PUE
- Leaving too long ends of the wire when entering a socket box or junction box. For comfortable work, the ends of the wire should be 12-15cm. Otherwise, problems may arise with its installation when installation is completed.
- Installation of splices or twists of wire in a cable channel or groove. All contacts and connections must be made only in electrical installation boxes (distribution or socket boxes). This facilitates the repair and inspection of electrical networks.
By avoiding the listed errors, the user will be able to independently mount the socket block and use it for a long time.
What is the best way to reliably connect two cables together?
Methods of connecting cables that require equipment and skills in the field of electrical engineering:
- soldering;
- welding;
- crimping with sleeves.
Simple connection methods that do not require tools or knowledge:
- connection using terminal blocks;
- spring clamps;
- PPE caps;
- bolted connection.
The choice of connection method depends on the characteristics of the wires. It is necessary to take into account the type and material of the core, the number of wires, and operating conditions.
With soldering
Soldering is a common method of connecting cables. To work you need a soldering iron, rosin, solder and sandpaper. How to connect wires by soldering:
- stripping of insulation;
- cleaning from oxides using sandpaper;
- the conductors need to be tinned - rosin is placed on the wire, it is heated with a soldering iron until the wire is covered with rosin;
- the conductors are assembled together, bubbling rosin must be applied to them and heated until the solder spreads;
- The soldering area is cooled.
The complexity of the process lies in the availability of professional skills. Do not overheat the solder area or twist it when heating, otherwise the insulation may melt
It is important to ensure high-quality and reliable contact of the wires. Soldering is used in low-current electrics
No soldering
Wires are connected without soldering using special connecting elements. It is also possible to connect the wires by twisting. Twisting is the simplest method that does not require equipment, but this method is also the most unreliable.
It is prohibited to use only a twisted connection according to the rules of the PUE.
Copper
Copper wire can be connected using terminal blocks, Wago clamps (necessarily using special paste), using a bolt, or soldering.
Aluminum
Aluminum wires can also be connected using any method, but with some special features. When connecting, the metal must be manually stripped of insulation.
Copper and aluminum wires cannot be connected directly. The connection point becomes very hot and over time the contact weakens. Therefore, it is better to use terminal blocks, wago, bolt connection or special branch clamps.
